600 Gallon Surger Reef Build

I am assuming that you are setting up a SPS mini reef, what with the interesting surge device you have planned. But using natural sunlight in MD for SPS from skylights seems challenging to me. If the natural light doesn't provide enough par, then what are your plans to supplement the lighting? As this build-up is to be energy efficient, do you plan to power the reef with solar panels or by other means?

Regarding the modified Carlson Surge Device, what kind of turnover in terms of the tank volume/hour are you planning for with this surge device? What other means of creating flow in this monster do you have planned? I am eagerly awaiting lots of pics and a video of the surge in action.:spin3:

Awesome start to this thread. Good Luck with the build-up process. I am subscribed!

I plan to do a mix of SPS and LPS. They'll be a wave break in the center of the tank, so the right side will get all the surge action, and the left will be more calm. I know I'll need a bit of actinic to add pop to the colors, but otherwise, I'm really hoping to keep supplemental light to a minimum. I looked in to solar panels, but I can't seem to configure a system that has any sort of ROI at this latitude. Even if I expect energy costs to go up, I'll break even in 20 years or so.. assuming no maintenance cost. bah. We do get a fair amount of wind, and that's still a possibility.

When averaged over an hour's time, the flow rate will be equal to a hammerhead on any other tank. However, during a surge each section should put out around 24GPM, so the total surge for all 10 firing at once would be 240GPM. I think that's best case, and a rare occurance, but still needs to be planned for. The display has 10 2" drains drilled in the back for just that reason. :) It's hard to see in the first pics, but the overflow is coast to coast - 93.5 inches.

I will also be using a second hammerhead on a closed loop. I want to keep the pumps identical because it then makes more sense to have a spare laying around, and/or I can at least have some flexibility when one of them dies.
 
Just curious, for water change purposes, are you going to be able to shut off compartments and simply fill them with fresh salt water and just allow the hammerhead to pump water into an external drain?

Again not sure on the total volume of the surge chambers.

The Honolulu aquarium would pump in fresh ocean water for each surge (if we could only be so lucky)

I'm still kicking myself.. I went to a wedding many years ago on Oahu, and somehow had not heard about the aquarium there.. I spent 10 days on the island and never saw it. :furious: :headwally:

The total surge tank it 100G - each section ranges from 6 to 15 gallons. I'm going for more a wave action than a changing of the tides kind of surge.

There will be two 300G rubbermaid sumps, one of which will be valved in and out of the system during water change cycles.
 
I looked at a few varieties of LEDs. These look like the winner.

LEDcloseup.jpg


It's the Cree XRE series 450-465nm Royal Blue. I'll be running them at 3.7w each, and I have to say they are BRIGHT. I have 4 different lenses of varying angles and spread patterns that need to be tested.

My plan is to mount a pair on a water block, and use them as spot lights for corals that I want to highlight. I feel small pairs without a large air cooled heatsink is the was to go. It'll block less sunlight than a large fixed array, and I can get away with less of them.

Here's a pair mounted on a water block:

LEDsonwaterblock.jpg


I'm still trying to figure out the best way to mount these on a gooseneck kinda thing so that they can be easily aimed.

Even mounted on a heatsink like that, they get HOT fast. I can only run them for about 5 minutes at a time. That'll change once I get water running through them. I have a radiator that should be able to support 50 or so of these.

Is anyone out there an electronics whiz? I'd like design a circuit to use a photocell to attenuate the LEDs during morning and evening hours (depending on the amount of sunlight coming in). The drivers are variable, and I just need to trim them down. I'd like the circuit to have a way to adjust upper and lower bounds, and then use the photocell to gradually vary the intensity between the two...
 
Nice! Did you mention you will be water cooling the LEDs?

Yep.. with a closed freshwater loop to an air cooled radiator. That'll keep the LEDs sets a bit smaller, and allows the heat to be transported away. I will probably mount the radiator right in front of the room's exhaust fan; to keep the heat out of the room.

The plan is to have two rigid PVC manifolds - one for input and one for output. Those manifolds will be attached to the wall above the tank, and flex tubing will connect to the LED waterblocks. Perhaps if I used thick enough wire it will be rigid enough for positioning the LEDs. As I mentioned, these lights will be spotlights and not general tank lighting.
 
Calcium Reactor inlet pressure

Calcium Reactor inlet pressure

What are you opinions on the inlet pressure needed for a Calcium Reactor? Can I gravity feed one with ~5' drop? Or do I need a dedicated pump for that task?

Geo818.jpg


I have a Geo 818 with an Ehiem 1260 for the recirc. Where I mount the unit depends on whether I gravity feed or use a second pump to feed it.

Thoughts?
 
On the calcium reactor, why can't you feed it off your return pump? Will you be running other reactors?

Hmmm.. hadn't thought of that.. Thanks for the idea. That would be a more reliable option. The inlet looks like 3/8" tubing, and that would be super simple to run just about anywhere.

I still like to hear if anyone has had experience with a gravity feed. The heater and chiller are going to be on a gravity feed, and if I can just add the calcium reactor to that.. it would be the easiest option.

I also have a Geo kalk reactor, and a couple of generic reactors for GFO/GAC if/when needed.
 
Nice tank. I though Glass Cages was the company that meats you in some regional location and they did not deliver to your door (or farm as the case may be)
 
Nice tank. I though Glass Cages was the company that meats you in some regional location and they did not deliver to your door (or farm as the case may be)

Beats me.. it didn't come up. Perhaps Tom made an exception because of the size?
 
Not sure about your set up but I don't trust gravity feeding techniques on pressure equipment like reactors. I have no clue if these are the facts but this is what goes through my mind.

Something like a sump, that is neither pressurized nor air tight, has no problem being gravity fed, because water always wants to reach its lowest point and the water will pass through all chambers of the sump because the return pump is pulling the water away, and creating a section where it's the lowest point in the sump.

But reactors are designed in a fashion that water needs to flow in, and be forced back up and out. At some point in time, the gravity pushing the water through the reactor may not be powerful enough to complete the process of forcing the water back up and out.

Again, may not be the facts but this these are my thoughts. If anyone could expound on this it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Kovy, you make an excellent point. Following your line of thought, I can see why it wouldn't work out well to gravity feed a reactor.
 
Let me take a few minutes to describe the fish room and the surrounding environment. The room itself is 12x17 with a slanted ceiling facing south. The ceiling height varies from 10' on the south side to about 20' on the north side. The fish room is considered exterior to the rest of the house, and by that I mean the shared walls are sheathed and insulated as a normal exterior wall would be. This room is also outside the house's HVAC envelope.

While the rest of the house has a basement, the fish room does not. It has supports driven all the way to bedrock, and is made of 10 inches of reinforced concrete. The floor is sloped to a 3" drain which is centered in the back of the room. We are on a well and septic system, and I didn't want to dispose of all the saltwater in to the main septic for fear the salt would build up over time and cause problems with the bacteria and septic function. So, the drain in the fish room has its own underground gravel pit.

The room is designed to contain all the water in the system in the event of a disaster. The floor is 18" below the level of the main floor of the house, and there is a rubber EPDM seal between floor and the walls. Though I really, really hope this isn't needed, the design goal here it to be able to contain the full amount of all water in the system within the fish room, and prevent it from entering the main house while the floor drain does its thing. I can't even imagine a scenario where the tank, both sumps, refugium, and surger all blowup at the same time, but better to be safe than sorry.

My Pop (now retired) worked for many years at the Department of Energy's Residential Research and Standards division. Because of that I was blessed to have many talented and knowledgeable folks work on the house's energy design. The house is heated and cooled by a Geothermal unit, and I really wanted to use that for the tank as well. However, it seems to me the residential Geo unit doesn't have the precision I am looking for in temp control, and it would be an awful headache for one unit to serve two very different functions. In the end, I feel the Geo unit will provide for the comfort of my family, but isn't suitable for a critical life support system.

So, the fish room was excluded from the house's HVAC envelope. However, we did make some important concessions. The house is fairly tight (0.42 ACH), and because of this we import fresh air for 20 minutes out of every hour. The only way out for this fresh air is through a duct in to the fish room, and then out through an exhaust fan. The exhaust fan in the fish room is controlled by the HVAC's fresh air system, and helps pull fresh air through the house out through the fish room. This means the house is positive pressure compared to the fish room, and keeps any funky smells from coming in to the house. The airflow is directed to sweep the skylights and reduce the chance of forming condensation. This also imparts a heating or cooling effect to the fish room without directly impacting the energy performance of the house. Additionally, this is the only means for humidity control. I am a little concerned that there is no humidistat; instead this control is only based on time. I do intend to keep the tank well covered. So hopefully this won't be an issue.

One of our early hopes was to make the entire house a net zero house (generate as much energy as it consumes). In the end, it just wasn't a feasible thing to do, but every aspect of energy usage was considered. That same philosophy was brought to the tank design. Although tempered with a heavy dose of reality. Someone earlier in this thread asked about solar panels to offset the energy use of the tank; solar cells weren't dismissed lightly. We went through several design iterations to try to incorporate them, but financial reality squashed it.

Well.. that was a heck of a long post.. sorry for any glazed eyes out there.
:spin3:
 
No glazed eyes here, looks like to tried to take everything into account while trying to remain both economical and ecological, I applaud you for that.
 
No glazed eyes here, looks like to tried to take everything into account while trying to remain both economical and ecological, I applaud you for that.

I'm glad. Most people I speak with about the tank glaze over pretty quickly. I forget that it's a bit different here. :)
 
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