600gal (96x48x30)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753073#post8753073 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by starpolyp
http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/Fishroom 4.jpg

just wondering what the looping of the spaflex up then down is for? is that to prevent back syphoning?

I used 2x wyes on the return as you can see... Since they needed to be pointed upwards and spaflex needs a wide radias to bend on, that is just how it came out... Why is there a problem with it ??

Since this pic was taken before I was completed, There is now a pipe connected to the shut off TUBV that is in the above pic that feeds the 50gal macroalgae tub and if the pump were to lose power (which is on an UPS unit that should last atleast 2hrs) it would suck in air preventing back syphoning of the tank, I have tested the system a few times (with the UPS disabled) and the sump will not overflow...
 
no problem if that is what you have done since the pic. in the pic it seemed as if you were attempting to avoid back syphoning with the loops. Id hate to see you flood the place.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753293#post8753293 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr.wilson
I'm not familiar with Phosbuster pro, but it may be aluminum-based as many phosphate binders are (Kent & HBH). Laterally compressed fish like tangs are more sensitive to heavy metals (copper in particular), so this would make sense.

Since it's made by Caribbsea, it may be a calcareous liquid that forms calcium phosphate precipitate. Maybe tangs were suffering from PH shock?

They call it a flocculant, which ties in with precipitation. And they also recommend buffering the water to raise the alkalinity for 10 minutes before dosing, to avoid a sudden shock. Seems like you are right on target.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753291#post8753291 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by starpolyp
have you put any live rock in the tank yet?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8628316#post8628316 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
Well I got a few more things completed today...

I got the fuge light hung for the macro...

LOA%2065w%20box.JPG


LOA%2065w%20installed.JPG


I also moved 185.6lbs of cured LR from the cooking bin over into the 150gal fuge tub...

I would weight each bucket full of rocks on a shipping scale then take it over and place the rocks into the fuge, once the rocks were removed I would weight the bucket with left over water in it again so that I could substact that from the total at the end... I still have some LR left in one cooking bin and then a whole nother bin full... The second bin will not be added until later as it still needs to cook... While going through the first bin if I saw anything questionable on a piece I just left it in the bin for further cooking...

And the day after I placed another 17.6lbs in so I have around 203lbs or cooked LR in the 150gal fuge (taking up about 1/3 of the space)... I still have a good amount of LR cooking and I am always looking for LR...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753337#post8753337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
They call it a flocculant, which ties in with precipitation. And they also recommend buffering the water to raise the alkalinity for 10 minutes before dosing, to avoid a sudden shock. Seems like you are right on target.

I guess Caribbsea found a marketable use for the white powder they sweep off of the crusher conveyor belt.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753291#post8753291 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by starpolyp
edit: I just realized that you already have live rock in the tank, it just has NOTHING on it. looked more like dead dried baserock.

The LR was added to the 150gal fuge... All of the rock you see in the display is baserock from Capt Jer at reeferrocks.com...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753334#post8753334 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by starpolyp
no problem if that is what you have done since the pic. in the pic it seemed as if you were attempting to avoid back syphoning with the loops. Id hate to see you flood the place.

Thanks for looking out... I will try to get some updated shots so that everyone can see what I am talking about...
 
I was looking over some pics and I don't think I posted these yet... I know some people were asking me what I was going to do about the holes at the bottom of the "Tunze boxes"...

Tunzes%20in%20tank%204.JPG


Tunze%20box%20guards.JPG


Once the tank clears up some more I will get some shots of them installed...
 
I LOVE TUNZE BOXES! they make the tank look neet and less cluttered with cords and pumps. its more natural looking in the end. :thumbsup:
 
we were thinking of going with the Vortecs for in tank circulation and wavemaking (once they get their controller out for sale). Any thoughts on those Shawn ? or Spazz for that matter ? :D

edit : I meant Spazz's thoughts on the Vortecs.. not Shawns thoughts on Spazz :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8753977#post8753977 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss
we were thinking of going with the Vortecs for in tank circulation and wavemaking (once they get their controller out for sale). Any thoughts on those Shawn ? or Spazz for that matter ? :D

edit : I meant Spazz's thoughts on the Vortecs.. not Shawns thoughts on Spazz :)

LOL, Well my thoughts on spazz are ............ LOL, I will not even go there :p j/k

I have not had hands on exp with the Vortecs, Both have their pros and cons... I know the Vortecs are new and still prob have some bugs to get worked out and right now at this point does not match up to the Tunzes as far as features, but I am here given a little more time they will be a close competitor... You just have to look at both and pick the one that would best suit your needs/wants... Not that I am going (or even can with this tank) switch to Vortecs, but I would like to play with one so I can compare them to the Tunzes...
 
starpolyp...It is not a requirement of life, liberty, or the pursuit of happiness to post on a particular thread. If you are as you say you are: "In real life I would never act this way." I would suggest that this particular thread bothers you and you should avoid it. As a fellow aquarist, I believe that you just want to help. Not all folks work well together.
 
OMG!!! I just clicked on your little red house mflamb about your 390 thread. Im not going there so dont worry but, what is going on there?

mflamb you are a diesel mechanic, if I created a thread on a truck hobbyist site about how I am rebuilding my turbo diesel engine but I had some nifty ideas that seemed just wrong from a proffessional standpoint, would you knowingly let me mess up and waste thousands of dollars for a giggle or would you try to intervene somehow and stop the madness?
If I saw the thread on your 390 sooner, I would have done all I could do to stop the madness.
!!!!POND FOAM????

asnatlas- glad to see the tank running, and glad you proved me wrong about it being broken. Good luck with her. and please, get covers made for those rubbermaid bins.
 
I'm more of the stand back and laugh kind of guy. You should join me. It's much more pleasant for everyone!!! Let's get back to the purpose of this thread.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8754516#post8754516 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by starpolyp
asnatlas- glad to see the tank running, and glad you proved me wrong about it being broken. Good luck with her. and please, get covers made for those rubbermaid bins.

Covers as in acrylic, or so you have something else that comes to mind ?? Do I just need to look at placing something over the the entire tub or just something to cover a good majority, does it need to have a seal ?? I have a light over two of the tubs since one is a macroalgae tank and the other is a frag tank... What about the display ?? I am assuming that you are worried about humidity and that is why you are recommending covers, or is there another reason ??
 
All I can say is that you are a saint Shawn. You responses are so composed and restrained. All I can say is that starpolyp's handle is appropriate... he just won't go away, grows where he is not wanted, and everything he touches get stung and/or irritated.
 
even with an exhaust fan....humidity, salt creep, hard water deposits, mould, mildew, and temperature. All that water and surface area in a confined room will build lots of humidity. even if the returns are under water, there will still be surface agitation. If there is a light over the bin, then use acrylic or a hybrid of PP or PE sheet and clear acrylic. and cover up as much as possible. It doesnt have to be sealed but I would cover the entire tub. you may want to use some angle PE or PP bar stock for cross bracing.

the display tank is meant to be open topped being euro style and all correct? so considering all the evaporation from the tank alone especially with open lighting, limiting the amount of evaporation from the sump room will be helpfull as well. but the main issue is the heat/humidity that results in mould and mildew. saltcreep and hardwater is a lesser issue imo.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8754727#post8754727 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
Covers as in acrylic, or so you have something else that comes to mind ?? Do I just need to look at placing something over the the entire tub or just something to cover a good majority, does it need to have a seal ?? I have a light over two of the tubs since one is a macroalgae tank and the other is a frag tank... What about the display ?? I am assuming that you are worried about humidity and that is why you are recommending covers, or is there another reason ??


thats what i was suggesting a few pages back.buy some cheap acrylic from the Depot and cover them up to keep evaporation down. Made a significant difference in a friend of mines basement.he has a 450 display with around 2-300 worth of sumps,and the humidity was getting out of control down there.Once he covered them up with the acrylic it was a night and day difference.

Of course if you dont have any problems with humidity then i wouldnt worry about it,but it will help with evaporation as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8757359#post8757359 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 46bfinGA
thats what i was suggesting a few pages back.buy some cheap acrylic from the Depot and cover them up to keep evaporation down. Made a significant difference in a friend of mines basement.he has a 450 display with around 2-300 worth of sumps,and the humidity was getting out of control down there.Once he covered them up with the acrylic it was a night and day difference.

Of course if you dont have any problems with humidity then i wouldnt worry about it,but it will help with evaporation as well.

Yea, I know... I rem you saying you were going to place a piece over your tank... I don't want to place anything (except mesh to keep the wrasses, and other fish from jumping out) over the display... When I first setup my system a few days later since I didn't have the fan fully hooked up when I entered into the basement it was very humid... Just hrs after the fan started running the humidity dropped to around 70% and since then has been fine... I may look into covering some of the bins, if not all as the fan does seem to run a good amount, but even at 62w x24/7 that is only $4.00 a month to run the fan, ALOT less then a dehumidifier... I also have an air intake in the fishroom for the HAVC unit... When the heater runs it will pull in that humid air and drop the humidity down in the low 60%, I am told the same will happen when the air conditioner runs...
 
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