600gal (96x48x30)
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
HOLY CRAP!!!
the tank is alive! congrats mr asnatlas! too bad nobody took me up on my wager.
well good luck with the tank.
I cant imagine what your de-humidification bills are going to be alone. Youd better cover up all those rubbermaid bins well or you gonna have stalagmite salt structures hanging from your ceiling.
With all the noob-like questions you are asking, you think maybe you should have started out with something a little bit more manageable?
the tank is alive! congrats mr asnatlas! too bad nobody took me up on my wager.
well good luck with the tank.
I cant imagine what your de-humidification bills are going to be alone. Youd better cover up all those rubbermaid bins well or you gonna have stalagmite salt structures hanging from your ceiling.
With all the noob-like questions you are asking, you think maybe you should have started out with something a little bit more manageable?
xtropher_vw -'To tell the truth that tank you set up in 2 days looks like ***! HAHAHA"
You have no idea. I cut enough coral out of that tank every month to stock a 75gal to the gills. 2400 watts of light and there is absolutly NO heat transferred to the tank. you can have a chiller go out and the temp wont hit 82.
You have no idea. I cut enough coral out of that tank every month to stock a 75gal to the gills. 2400 watts of light and there is absolutly NO heat transferred to the tank. you can have a chiller go out and the temp wont hit 82.
asnatlas
New member
WB starpolyp...
My humidity stays between 65-70%... I don't need to run a dehumidifier (at this time)... I am not sure why I need to cover all my bins as it would trap heat and cause issues... I don't see why I would have stalagmite salt structures hanging from my ceiling ?? The water will evporate leaving the salt behind... I have the lines just under the surface of the water along with filter socks, so I don't have "splashing" salt going every where... I am not sure how my questions are noobish, I have other SW systems and just because I have been running those tanks for yrs does not mean I am going to see every little thing that can happen in this hobby... Also just because I did something one way for the past X yrs does not mean there is not a better way of doing it... When I first started doing SW setups I didn't have RC so I listened to locals and relied on books, I am not saying that I take every little thing that I read on RC to heart, but it gives me other things to look into and investigate...
Bax
Premium Member
This is a totally different scale than your system, but ...
On my 120 display ~ 240 gal system I recently started running a 36 w Turbo Twist. I think the recomended kill volume is about 390 gph. I have it running through an Eheim 2215 canister filter. It only pushes about 160 gph. Due to some required out of town traveling, and the death of my previous smaller UV unit, I having been havig huge hair algae issues and my water was greenish. Two days with this set up and the water clarity was night & day. I continue to run it 24/7 and for 50 w total consumption I don't belive I could do anything better for my water clarity. I don't know, Mr Wilson might, what running at 1/2 the kill rate does that could be negative, but the positives are very evident so far to me. ... and my hair algae is loosing ground after about three weeks of the UV operation.
I'd say buy what ever UV you can afford and set it up with a prefilter anyway you can, it can not hurt you. After using UV on my FW ponds and now three different SW systems I won't be with out it. JME
On my 120 display ~ 240 gal system I recently started running a 36 w Turbo Twist. I think the recomended kill volume is about 390 gph. I have it running through an Eheim 2215 canister filter. It only pushes about 160 gph. Due to some required out of town traveling, and the death of my previous smaller UV unit, I having been havig huge hair algae issues and my water was greenish. Two days with this set up and the water clarity was night & day. I continue to run it 24/7 and for 50 w total consumption I don't belive I could do anything better for my water clarity. I don't know, Mr Wilson might, what running at 1/2 the kill rate does that could be negative, but the positives are very evident so far to me. ... and my hair algae is loosing ground after about three weeks of the UV operation.
I'd say buy what ever UV you can afford and set it up with a prefilter anyway you can, it can not hurt you. After using UV on my FW ponds and now three different SW systems I won't be with out it. JME
Bax
Premium Member
Here's a nice 80 watt unit for sale on the sellers forum:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=993774
Maybe a better size for your system.
Just dropped the price too.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=993774
Maybe a better size for your system.
Just dropped the price too.
asnatlas
New member
Bax thanks for your post and the Link... I am not looking for a huge UV, so I will pass on that used one for sale...
I am going to look into smaller UV unit... I would like to run the unit without a dedicated (extra) pump, I have a can filter right now that I use for a carbon reactor, but the flow is not very high... I might look at adding a 36w Turbo Twist to the output of the can filter, I would like to get the OCF 375, but again don't want to have another pump added to the system, and I don't want to take much more return away from my Dart...
melev
Well-known member
Anyone considered using algone? www.algone.com is the only source for it.
melev
Well-known member
Algone isn't an additive. It is a pillow of some type of absorbant material that clarifies water and lowers nitrates. I've been using it over the past year (I need to order more). Just write the date on the pillow, drop it in the sump, and replace it after two weeks. The large pillows treat 200g each.
I've used Phosbuster Pro with zero issues. If you have Yellow Tangs, and your product is a year old, don't use it. Back then, the recipe killed Yellow Tangs for unexplainable reasons. CaribSea modified (made it weaker imho) to avoid this phenomena for continuing.
I've used Phosbuster Pro with zero issues. If you have Yellow Tangs, and your product is a year old, don't use it. Back then, the recipe killed Yellow Tangs for unexplainable reasons. CaribSea modified (made it weaker imho) to avoid this phenomena for continuing.
the reason i am condesending in this thread is due to the fact that i have tried to help with suggestions since the beginning of this thread " hobby aquarists helping aquarists". as some say.
well, none of this help is ever listened to..
"I don't see why I would have stalagmite salt structures hanging from my ceiling ?? The water will evporate leaving the salt behind... I have the lines just under the surface of the water along with filter socks, so I don't have "splashing" salt going every where..."
http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/Fishroom 3 - labeled.JPG
that entire room will be covered in salt in one year, maybe more, maybe less. BUT the hard part will be all the hard water deposits. but... hey. what do i know???
this is just one example of help unwanted. go to the beginning (before the split) and read all the warnings by all the hobbyists that was not listened to. particle board, homemade epoxy substrate.. etc. etc.
the condesending behavior is luckily just a character flaw that exposes itself on online forums, for that i am sorry. In real life i would never act this way.
well, none of this help is ever listened to..
"I don't see why I would have stalagmite salt structures hanging from my ceiling ?? The water will evporate leaving the salt behind... I have the lines just under the surface of the water along with filter socks, so I don't have "splashing" salt going every where..."
http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/Fishroom 3 - labeled.JPG
that entire room will be covered in salt in one year, maybe more, maybe less. BUT the hard part will be all the hard water deposits. but... hey. what do i know???
this is just one example of help unwanted. go to the beginning (before the split) and read all the warnings by all the hobbyists that was not listened to. particle board, homemade epoxy substrate.. etc. etc.
the condesending behavior is luckily just a character flaw that exposes itself on online forums, for that i am sorry. In real life i would never act this way.
http://600gal.asnatlas.com/Resized/Fishroom 4.jpg
just wondering what the looping of the spaflex up then down is for? is that to prevent back syphoning?
just wondering what the looping of the spaflex up then down is for? is that to prevent back syphoning?
actually, I had just noticed it as i was going through the split. I am glad you avoided the faux bottom and I think you will too in the future.
have you put any live rock in the tank yet?
edit: I just realized that you already have live rock in the tank, it just has NOTHING on it. looked more like dead dried baserock.
have you put any live rock in the tank yet?
edit: I just realized that you already have live rock in the tank, it just has NOTHING on it. looked more like dead dried baserock.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Algone is a safe, barley straw-based, means of irradicating algae. Barley works very well as a natural algaecide, but I've found (in pond use) that it's more of a maintenance tool than a quick cure.
Barley straw reacts in the water to form hydrogen peroxide, thus increasing redox potential. It may not be of much value in your case, as you already have an ozonizer (if I remember correctly) for controlling redox potential .
I'm not familiar with Phosbuster pro, but it may be aluminum-based as many phosphate binders are (Kent & HBH). Laterally compressed fish like tangs are more sensitive to heavy metals (copper in particular), so this would make sense.
Since it's made by Caribbsea, it may be a calcareous liquid that forms calcium phosphate precipitate. Maybe tangs were suffering from PH shock?
Barley straw reacts in the water to form hydrogen peroxide, thus increasing redox potential. It may not be of much value in your case, as you already have an ozonizer (if I remember correctly) for controlling redox potential .
I'm not familiar with Phosbuster pro, but it may be aluminum-based as many phosphate binders are (Kent & HBH). Laterally compressed fish like tangs are more sensitive to heavy metals (copper in particular), so this would make sense.
Since it's made by Caribbsea, it may be a calcareous liquid that forms calcium phosphate precipitate. Maybe tangs were suffering from PH shock?
