600gal (96x48x30)
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
mr.wilson...could you recommend a book about quarantine and hospital tanks, where I could study mroe about the meds you mentioned. I'm setting up a 390 gallon display. I have a 50 gallon quarantine, but have never quarantined before. I read all I can find on Reef Central and in Reef Keeping Magazine online, but would like some form of reference book on the subject. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
pwhitby...I studied your subjects in college in Oklahoma...what part of the state are you in?
pwhitby...I studied your subjects in college in Oklahoma...what part of the state are you in?
jnarowe
New member
BTW, when I set up my QT/HT tank, I included dual float valves. One is for top-off with RO/DI and the other is from the main system. It has a gate valve also and I can remove water from the QT, and allow it to refill with system water. The main system feed is from an elevated refugium, so it's gravity feed.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
That's an excellent idea. The easier it is to do, the more likely you are to do it. The other major benefit is you avoid cross contamination as you try to remember which end of the siphon hose went in which tank.
The best (technical) disease treatment books I've come across are "Treatment of Exotic marie Fish Diseases" by DR. Edward Kingsford (long out of print, but I'll post his QT procedure some time this week), http://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Drugs-Chemicals-Treatment-Diseases/dp/039803852X, http://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Fish-Diseases-Dieter-Untergasser/dp/0866227032, http://www.amazon.com/Textbook-Fish-Health-George-Post/dp/0866224912, and http://www.bestwebbuys.com/Fish_Medicine-ISBN_0721626297.html?isrc=b-search
I was disappointed in this book, but it's good for a beginner. The information is accurate, but brief. http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/6745/cid/2857
asnatlas
New member
asnatlas
New member
Last nite after I got home I got to looking around and I found I had a Aqua UV 25 Watt 3/4 inch UV Sterilizer laying around that I got with a used setup last year that I never hooked up, and forgot about... I have it hooked up to my Eheim Canister Filter (only about 185gal per hr)...
Anyone see a problem with running a 25w UV with only 200gph ??
Anyone see a problem with running a 25w UV with only 200gph ??
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Changing the bulb would be a good idea. Is the old one brown, with chrome-like stains at the ends? Philipps makes nice (high UV C) lamps.
You can run up to 250 GPH through a 25 watt UV with a maximum kill ratio. Ehiem canisters are rated at 0' head with no media or detritus, so you may only have 80-100 GPH. You can use a small pump in series to boost the output of the ehiem, or just get a cheap Rainbow pleated cartridge filter. I would sell the Ehiem and buy a Rainbow unit.
keep looking in your garage, you might already have one
You can run up to 250 GPH through a 25 watt UV with a maximum kill ratio. Ehiem canisters are rated at 0' head with no media or detritus, so you may only have 80-100 GPH. You can use a small pump in series to boost the output of the ehiem, or just get a cheap Rainbow pleated cartridge filter. I would sell the Ehiem and buy a Rainbow unit.
keep looking in your garage, you might already have one
asnatlas
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8783935#post8783935 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr.wilson
Changing the bulb would be a good idea. Is the old one brown, with chrome-like stains at the ends? Philipps makes nice (high UV C) lamps.
You can run up to 250 GPH through a 25 watt UV with a maximum kill ratio. Ehiem canisters are rated at 0' head with no media or detritus, so you may only have 80-100 GPH. You can use a small pump in series to boost the output of the ehiem, or just get a cheap Rainbow pleated cartridge filter. I would sell the Ehiem and buy a Rainbow unit.
keep looking in your garage, you might already have one
I checked the bulb and it seems to be in pretty good shape... The Quartz Sleeve is nice and clear, I will try to get a picture of it... Would I be able to get a Philips UV bulb that would fit my Aqua UV unit ?? Here is the Replacement Lamp for the unit I have...
When I looked up the spec's on the unit I have I found the following :
As for the Rainbow filter, are you referring to this ??
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I think Aqua UV uses Phillips lamps but I'm not sure. That price is okay, so I'd go with it, but it sounds like the old one is still good. You can tell when they're spent.
Yes, that's the mechanical filter. Ehiems are the best of the hobby filters, but they can have retaining clasp issues. The Rainbow (Pentair) units can withstand some serious abuse. The screw off cap is indestructible.
There's a taller model for a few more $$$, but the small one is better sized for your slow flow. You should order an extra pleated cartridge, so you can always have a clean one ready to swap. You can bleach them when they get really dirty, but make sure you don't soak it for too long, and use dechlorinator afterwards. I use pool chlorine test kits just to be safe.
Yes, that's the mechanical filter. Ehiems are the best of the hobby filters, but they can have retaining clasp issues. The Rainbow (Pentair) units can withstand some serious abuse. The screw off cap is indestructible.
There's a taller model for a few more $$$, but the small one is better sized for your slow flow. You should order an extra pleated cartridge, so you can always have a clean one ready to swap. You can bleach them when they get really dirty, but make sure you don't soak it for too long, and use dechlorinator afterwards. I use pool chlorine test kits just to be safe.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I have many eheims, and I can see how the classic line's metal clasps can be seen as a problem. I have a 2211 and a 2217, and have never had a problem myself, but they are not as good as the other clamps used on the other lines. I have the professional, and professional 2 filters (FWIW, the Pro3 is the same in this respect), and the clamps are much nicer to work with... but by far, my favorite cannisters by them are the large 2260s (I think they just came out with an even larger 2262 now too). For $250-300 at most places, its a monster of a filter that you can stuff with whavever you like (think 5gallon bucket with a pump and lid), with a hobby pump up top for flow (so its an easy replacment/modular design), and the lid is clamped on with a bunch of little 'C' clamps... by far the best solution. So if you want the most durable... look into the 2250, 2260, or 2262... they are monsters. I used to use the pentair units about 10 years ago (they were popular then), but they just clog too quickly.
What sort of mechanical are you wanting to do though? Is it anything more than a filter sock on the drain-pipe would be able to do? Are you looking to do diatom filtration?
What sort of mechanical are you wanting to do though? Is it anything more than a filter sock on the drain-pipe would be able to do? Are you looking to do diatom filtration?
asnatlas
New member
Well I already run 100micron filter socks on the 2" drain into the sump... Right now I am just using the Canister Filter for carbon (with some filter floss as well)... I think I am going to pick up a Eheim 1250 (317gph) and then make a DIY Filter to run before the UV... I would just like a little something to filter the water entering the UV unit...
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I wouldnt bother with much of a filter. The pre-filter on the eheim should be enough to keep out large chunks, and as for the UV chamber itself, you will find you have to clean out the scum that forms inside of it anyways, even with a filter... so IMO... not worth it... you just have to clean out the UV every once and a while. Some units have the cleaning lever/wiper built in... those make it easy.
tylorarm
Premium Member
Why don't more people plumb the QT tank into their systems, include a drain to aid in cleaning, with a UV overkill on the output of the QT back into the main? Are UV kills just not thorogh enough? In your example 200gph running through the Aqua UV that sterilizes at 1200gph seems pretty safe. Any parasites will surely be killed and not enter main system. Seems so much easier if it was consistent water quality, PH, salinity, etc. If it was always there, and adding to total water volume, you'd always use it. Most fish you buy aren't sick anyway. Could throw some chaeto in there when nobody sick in the QT. If you had to add copper, do hypo or other (fish showed some signs of sickness or high risk new tang or something) then you just shut off ball valve on input and output to isolate, then do treatment, scrub down after treatment and then open the ball valves again afterwards to put back on line. This is what I'm thinking of doing but not so sure after ealier comments.
tylorarm
Premium Member
If the UV had 100% kill rate of organics then it is isolated from any diseases brought in with new fish. Then no need for 2nd acclimatization that presents a risk. If medication needed you take off line (frankly I find that very few of the fish I buy have any diseases during one month QT but I watch them for a while in LFS before I buy) then clean out. Maybe downfall is that something like copper very difficult to wash out of QT tank, and traces enough to damage inverts?
