70 GAL aquarium fish die always.

WaterMelon

New member
Hiya, a friend have a nice saltwateraquarium 70 gal, but the fish always die, he have 2 sarcophyton, 2 featherduster (sabella), 1 red hermit crab, 1 serpent sea star, like 9 medium sized live rocks, (like 2kg each), the aquarium have 7 months working, water parameters:
Ph.- 8.4
No2.- 0.0ppm
No3.- is 15.0ppm or 0.15ppm, the 3 one in the aquarium pharmaceutical test is nice yellow color =(.
Amoniaco (Nh4?).- 0.0ppm.
Um.... i tinks thats all, he buy 2 tomato clown fish and 2 bangaii cardinal fish, is amphiprion frenatus? and Pterapogon kauderni?, a fish die, one of the cardinal fish, any help is apreciated, before (like 2 or 3 weeks), he buy a pomacanthus paru, another fish, um a buterfly false eye or someting, and 2 amphiprion frenatus befor..., any help or idea is fine, HELP!!!!!!!!!!!. Thanks in avance.
 
what symptoms do the fish show before dying? How long do they last? Does your friend have a skimmer/open top?
 
Your friend's biological filter may be insufficient for his tank; approx. 40 lbs of live rock isn't very much for a 70g. I would suggest that his tank might have gone through a brief mini-cycle as the denitrifying bacteria was momentarily unable to cope with an excessive bioload, causing an ammonia/nitrite spike that might have killed off the fish. I would tell your friend to add only 1 fish at a time (after QT!) to minimize the chance of a recurrent spike. :)
 
OK.

OK.

OK. well he have a seaclone =(, but rarely it work fine, the top is open but the aquarium is inside a wall, so he put a wood table over the front of the aquarium, he buy everyting in same aquarium, is a good aquarium i tink. ok i will tell him only add 1 fish at time, yes we are in fruitland. ich couald it b?, they dont have very white spots, but well im going to tell him feed them garlic flake food, from seachem is good?, i have that one. they was fine days long!, but today one just beggin to breath fast and fall in floor, he say like 15 minutes after it beggin to breat fast, and the fish die, other one die at 6pm today...... Any help will be apreciated, a he have a 350 magnum and a 330 marineland pinguin, they are old like 4 years working on same aquarium, and well it have less than 1 year of marine, cuz like 6 months ago we change a 50% of water. fish does not suvirve much long, Thanks in avance.
 
temp / salynyty

temp / salynyty

The temp is 22Ã"šÃ‚°C / 24Ã"šÃ‚°C, salynyty is 1.022?, is 1.0022 or 1.0022?, well 22.
 
I run mine at 34 ppt about 1.025 is closer to natural sea water, you are running within the range, I like it higher since I have SPS, and clams. If you bring it up do it slowly and mix outsite the tank :) and just add one fish at a time and see how that goes.
 
7 months working

7 months working

7 months working from we clean it, i really dont know i tink 2 or 3 years on, he add fish like 2 months later.
 
The tomato die.

The tomato die.

We add a tomato fish, later of check water and c all wuz fine, it die today in morning the eyes was black and part of the body, wat kill it?, we are a bit sad, dissapointed and well i c we are a newones, trylling to have alive a easy-to-keep fish, hu!, well im more that all reylling to tell him he cant have the aquarium, i tink to many fish died, better try again later in other place, what u all say?
 
Mmmmmm...

Mmmmmm...

Rodi is reverse osmosis?, is it is that no... we never use it, i have almost 3 years without using a ro filter, but well could be someting from the water?......we aclimate them, lastime 30 minutes, i usually just aclimate them 10 minutes and corals 20, if he want still having fish i tell him raise up the temp. Thanks.
 
Watermelon:
It is either a chemical in the water or an illness. I doubt chemical because the feather dusters are very sensitive to any of them but seems that the tank husbandry shall have to be improved.

Here are the ideal conditions:
a) PH 8.1 to 8.4
b) Temperature 26 *C (79 *F)
c) Alkalinity 8 to 10 dKh
d) Calcium 400 to 430 ppm
e) Magnesium 1,250 ppm
f) Salinity 1.025 (Use a refractometer for accuracy)
g) Nitrates less than 5 ppm; 0 optimal
h) Nitrites 0
i) Ammonia 0
j) Phosphate less than 0.03 ppm 0 optimal

What I would do:
a) Use RO/DI water
b) Make 10 to 15% water changes every week
c) Double the amount of live rock to about 35 to 40 Kilograms using fully cured rock
d) If using crushed coral, vacuum it out, if desired use either a deep sand bed (3 to 5 inches) or shallow bed (less than 1 inch) using aragonite sand
e) Once the full rock is in, remove the penguin and use the Magnum for Activated Carbon only.
f) Use activated carbon regularly to remove any lingering chemicals and again keep the water changes.
g) leave the aquarium fishless for at least 6 weeks, two months ideal so most parasites die. This will also help reduce Nitrates as feeding can be reduced to a bare minimum of a pinch a week to keep some of the little critters.
h) remove any mechanical filter that can hold any parasites.
i) Get a better and larger skimmer.
j) when is time to add new fish quarantine them in a smaller aquarium and change store, if any fish looks sick or dying in ANY of their tanks, walk away.
k) start with some hardy fish, damsels are hardy but you may not want them later on so stick to chromis and tank raised false percula clowns. Start slow, on or two fish per week and do not over feed.

So in summary start all over with proper setting and husbandry.
 
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