8Ball_99s 310 upgrade
- Thread starter 8BALL_99
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Northside Reef
Premium Member
Nice wood work 8 Ball, Your stand is going to look awesome.
That's a cool idea leaving out the back braces. It's still going to be strong enough like that?
I have a problem with my sump being to big to fit under my stand, If that works. I am going to have the stand reworked to be more like that it will solve one of my problems.
Also, I was looking at the dims of your tank. since mine are 72X30X30 and is rated at 280.5 I ran the dims of yours and came out at 280.5 as well. is there a typo in the dims?
That's a cool idea leaving out the back braces. It's still going to be strong enough like that?
I have a problem with my sump being to big to fit under my stand, If that works. I am going to have the stand reworked to be more like that it will solve one of my problems.
Also, I was looking at the dims of your tank. since mine are 72X30X30 and is rated at 280.5 I ran the dims of yours and came out at 280.5 as well. is there a typo in the dims?
8BALL_99
New member
Thanks! The stand should be plenty strong its made out of 1.5" square Tube.. The rear of the stand as a solid peice of steel thats 1.5"x1/2" thick its turned on its edge and welded to the rear beam. My father in law is a structual welder and swears this will hold more then I need. I did set a 100 Gallon live stock tank up on the rear span and then filled it up.. I used a straight edge to see if the rear bowed. It held fine. Besides I figure most of the weight is going to be on the four corners so the rear span won't be holding the weight of a full 100 gallons of water. Probably half that really.
Haha you caught that. Sorry about that. Yeah it should say 300 Gallons. I thought it was a 290 Plus overflows But its a 280 plus external over flows. The overflows each hold like 10.9 gallons. I was going to make it 26" or 27" tall. 26 would have been 290.. After getting the tank I'm pretty glad I didn't make it any taller. I got beside it and reached in and couldn't reach the bottom but for the first 6" or so. Its going to be fun getting to the middle. With 30" tall I hope you have a much longer reach then me
Here is a drawing I did when I was planning the stand. Its just paint but it give you an idea of the construction
savethereef
SCRK
8Ball for that metal stand how heavy is it? estimated.
The reason i ask is because the tank i am planning is 72x30x24 and the stand i am planning is 72x30x40 and with the 40 inch high stand it wont fit thru the front door so i have to bring it in thru a patio door. so i would have to pass it over a 5 foot wall.
im 6'5 so i want it as high as my current tank i have now.
Thanks
The reason i ask is because the tank i am planning is 72x30x24 and the stand i am planning is 72x30x40 and with the 40 inch high stand it wont fit thru the front door so i have to bring it in thru a patio door. so i would have to pass it over a 5 foot wall.
im 6'5 so i want it as high as my current tank i have now.
Thanks
Northside Reef
Premium Member
Yeah, I am going to cut the back two center braces out and move them to the ends to give my a 5' opening for the sump. I will just need to add a spacer for the actuator support post.
But seeing your stand gave me that idea. I am sure the little bit of welding involved will be cheaper than a new sump.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13370391#post13370391 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 8BALL_99
I got beside it and reached in and couldn't reach the bottom but for the first 6" or so. Its going to be fun getting to the middle. With 30" tall I hope you have a much longer reach then me
well not to start the whole you know what debate, I will be able to reach the bottom because there will be sand taking up some of that space down there
8BALL_99
New member
Its not heavy. I can move it my self with just a dolly. Two guys could carry it pretty easy. Not sure on the exact weight though.. Maybe 100LBs or so. The solid peice of Steel on the back added quite a bit of weight though.
You sure it won't fit through the front door? Most entrance doors are 32"or 36". My stand was just a little to wide to go through the door at 36 1/4". But laying it on its side the 30" height was easy.. My door on my equipment room is 36" wide though. If your door is 32" it might be a little tight. I'm more concerned with getting the tank in lol. We will have to flip it onto its front carry it in then flip it back. Not a huge deal, But my Equipment room is very small. Its going to be hard enough just to get the tank in with enough guys to hold it. Not to mention trying to flip the dern thing! I think I'm going to build a cart with wheels out of the shipping crate to help hold the weight during the move.
8BALL_99
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13370611#post13370611 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Northside Reef
Yeah, I am going to cut the back two center braces out and move them to the ends to give my a 5' opening for the sump. I will just need to add a spacer for the actuator support post.
But seeing your stand gave me that idea. I am sure the little bit of welding involved will be cheaper than a new sump.
well not to start the whole you know what debate, I will be able to reach the bottom because there will be sand taking up some of that space down there
Haha I was lucky, My welding was free
Heck for that matter the steel was free also. My father in Law has been a welder for ever. Even went through some refresher classes a couple years back cause he was working at a rental company that rented construction crains and cherry pickers ect.. He works for a company in town that does everything from water lines to apartment stairs to repairing railroad bridges. He wouldn't let me pay him, But I did order him a set of slip ons for his new harley though for doing the stand for me. So I guess really I have a couple hundred in it.Haha I see. My sand bed is only a couple inches. But thats good thinking. If you plan on a 4-5" sand bed the extra height will really be needed. I've seen people do DSB in standard tanks and it really takes a chunk out of the real estate!
savethereef
SCRK
yeah my door is 32 inches wide but when you walk in its a L shape. So when you walk in you there is a wall and you have to make a left. the tank will be able to get in verticaly but the stand since its 40 inches tall 30 inches wide and 6 feet long it cant clear its way in because of the L shape when you walk in the house.
If its about a 100 pound give or take a little more then 2-3 guys can move it over the wall. i though they were really heavy like 200-300 pounds. well thanks for the info. Ill shut up now and enjoy your thread
thanks
If its about a 100 pound give or take a little more then 2-3 guys can move it over the wall. i though they were really heavy like 200-300 pounds. well thanks for the info. Ill shut up now and enjoy your thread
thanks
.. Well I guessed 100 LBs It could be 150LB lol But yeah its not over 200 and no where near 300.
8BALL_99
New member
Got a little done tonight. The wood work is done on the stand for the most part.. I still have to stain and poly it and after I set the tank on it I plan on adding a shelf around it like the old one with tile inlayed into it. Makes for a good place to set fish food and helps catch any drips down the side. I also got FRP glued down to the top. I plan on putting the finish on the stand before I cut the hole above it for the skylight. Here is a few pics
Will
Will
8BALL_99
New member
Thanks, I'm still a little unsure what to do next.. I'm thinking about going ahead and building the shelf onto the stand before I stain and poly it. Then just waiting till the tank is in place before adding the tile around it.. Then I'll probably stain and poly the stand. Inbetween coats I need to start on the light shaft that will go above the thank. My plan for that is to pretty much just build a U out of 2x4s ripped in half Skin the outside of it with plywood then mount it above where the tank will go. I plan on painting the outside of the shaft the same color as the wall behind the tank. Once thats up I can then start marking the hole in the ceiling for skylight shaft and the skylight above. Then comes the task of installing the skylight.. Thats probably the one thing I'm a little worried about.. I've never installed one before, but it doesn't look that hard. I can figure out the framing part of it easy enough.. I just want to make sure the skylight itself doesn't leak! Once I get the skylight in then I just need to paint the shaft and Line it with reflective metal. Then comes the fun part of installing the canopy and reworking my Lift. I think I've got a pretty good idea on how I'm going to do it, But thats kind of one of those one off jobs.. So I'll pretty much just build it as I go.. I'll do the same thing I did last time as in I'll build a wood frame the same size as the tank so I can test everything and have the bugs worked out before I install the tank.. Once ALL that is done I get to move the tank to the stand and fill-er-up. lol
savethereef
SCRK
wow seems like solar tubes are in now
Ive seen threads on both and i think the solar tube gets much better light than a sky light.
Ive seen threads on both and i think the solar tube gets much better light than a sky light.
8BALL_99
New member
I custom ordered a Velux skylight with out the LoE coating. I was looking at solaTubes but since the gap between the ceiling and roof is very small I think I can get more light with a skylight. Plus a single Tube cost as much as a skylight.. The biggest Tubes I could find that would go on pitched roofs and didn't have huge boxes under them were 16". So I had the choice of either 3x 16" circles or a skylight thats 30x54". I kind of wish I would have had them build me a custom size.. Maybe 64 Long. But I was worried about the time frame and just the idea of a custom skylight scared me a little. I think I should get plenty of light though. I also have 4x54 watt T5s for Blue and for night time viewing.. I've got a Icecap 660Ballst also I Can through some T5s on if needed. My hope though is to get by with natural light as much as I can. In the winter if needed I can always stick my Mh lights back over the tank. I've got a par meter and plan on keeping an eye on the amount of light I get and adjust as needed.. After seeing that one guy in the advanced topic forum getting 1500 par on the bottom of his 30+ tall tank with a skylight I'm very excited If I can get a couple hundred par on the bottom for the better part of the year I'd be happy. The skylight only cost me 350.00 with a flashing kit.. I plan on installing it my self. The cost for wood to frame the opening ect should be under a 60 bucks. So even if it only works in the summer it will pay for itself pretty quick..If I can get by with just the skylight and the T5s I've already got then with in a year I should be break even point. Plus I just got to think corals could/should do better under natural light.
If I can get a couple hundred par on the bottom for the better part of the year I'd be happy. The skylight only cost me 350.00 with a flashing kit.. I plan on installing it my self. The cost for wood to frame the opening ect should be under a 60 bucks. So even if it only works in the summer it will pay for itself pretty quick..If I can get by with just the skylight and the T5s I've already got then with in a year I should be break even point. Plus I just got to think corals could/should do better under natural light.
8BALL_99
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13377205#post13377205 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by savethereef
wow seems like solar tubes are in now
Ive seen threads on both and i think the solar tube gets much better light than a sky light.
They are a very kewl I dea.. Infact if the skylight works out I'm thinking about sticking a 16" tube over my 92 corner tank.. The round tube and since the gap above the tank is several feet I think a tube is a much better choice. That plus the Tubes are very easy to install and you can span large attic spaces.
samson78945
New member
that is a great looking tank!
8BALL_99
New member
Well in my local club forum a member mentioned that I should put granite on the stand for the shelf this time.. Last stand I used some slate looking tile I got on Clearance since they only had 1 box left. I thought about it and I do have some marlborough left over from when I added a fireplace. I think it might look pretty good inlaid into the shelf. That or I can use the slate like on the other stand. What looks better to you guys?
Here is what the canopy looks like on the stand.. That wood frame is the same size as the tank. I wanted to get the canopy in place before I build the light shaft.. Plus when I start installing the lift I'll need it.
Will
Here is what the canopy looks like on the stand.. That wood frame is the same size as the tank. I wanted to get the canopy in place before I build the light shaft.. Plus when I start installing the lift I'll need it.
Will
Avast Marine
.Registered Member
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