Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
The tile has become covered in worms, pods and even corals. I love it.
900 Gallon Reef Project
- Thread starter Bennytheblenny
- Start date
The tile has become covered in worms, pods and even corals. I love it.
NVfishman
Premium Member
Im in the processof building up my large system can u take some pics of fishroom setup and 160 water tanks and how they are used in the system
Hope the rebuild is coming along well.
I just got my 350 pounds of Tuaki rock was gonna dry out another 200 pounds from my display to reuse
thanks
Hope the rebuild is coming along well.
I just got my 350 pounds of Tuaki rock was gonna dry out another 200 pounds from my display to reuse
thanks
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Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
Will do I have been swamped with the holidays.
Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
Okay so Reeftech got me some pics of my new lights:
Can't wait to see how they perform as the spectrum should be much more open to customization with the addition of red, green, orange and amber LEDS.
Can't wait to see how they perform as the spectrum should be much more open to customization with the addition of red, green, orange and amber LEDS.
Hi , went through all the pics, amazing build mate, I read a few pages back, that you are not getting polyp extension, I know there are millions of suggestions, but one thing I did for my mates 700 gallon, is We put in wave makers, we put one on each side with 4 mp 60's
And iam telling you, polyp extension the next day , and corals have been amazin since then. We used the TUNZE WAVEBOX 6215. One each corner of the back wall, I assure you, you will see results.
And iam telling you, polyp extension the next day , and corals have been amazin since then. We used the TUNZE WAVEBOX 6215. One each corner of the back wall, I assure you, you will see results.
Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
Wow, I think you have sold me on getting at least a pair to test out. I think when I re-do the aquascaping I will have the opportunity to put them in. Thanks for the tip! The videos are amazing. Do you think a pair will be enough? Also with the overflows I have, will they interfere with the wave formation?
Yes I think 2 will be good to start, put them on the back wall, i think with what you have as far as other things to move water around in the tank 2 tunze wave boxes will be good, it didn't mess with my mates 700 gallon system as far as over flows were concerned, at the same time the goal is to get water moving in the deeper part of your tank, you probably won't see an actual wave at the top off your tank, like you would in a 100, 150 or 200 gallon tank, but the water will move, run them alternate to each other first and then try running them together. One of the main reasons in ammonia and phosphate spikes is the amount of unearth food and fish poo being not moved around enough to end up in the over flows and then into the skimmer, you can change phosphate media every week and after 3 days or so off all 0's it will spike back up again. Also I know it's a pain but do small water changes every day, again I know it's a pain. So Its 1100 gallons, since your back room is right there with the sump and a sink, 100 gallon water changes every day or every other day, for a month, PATIENCE is the key, which I know you have , cause you built a huge system. OPEN UP your rock work, when the first time I saw you put the Rock in, with reading further I thought in my mind, it's stacked up to close to each other. This might cause some sort of a spike, the KEY is to have NO DEAD SPOTS AND LET THE WATER MOVE FROM EVERYWHERE IN THE TANK. try not to stack the rock on the back wall, move it forward a bit, so there is room between the rock and back wall, keep the Rock youhave in the tank, just take alot out, and put it in ur sump or where ur skimmer is, not all the Rock that u buy is fully cured, so if you put in new rock you start back at zero again, so keep the Rock in the tank, just take pieces out, also, do regular water changes, when u do one every month, it kinda spikes every thing or goes to high and then when you do a water change BOOM it goes again , keep things at an even keel. Consistant water changes. Every week , but for now do one every other day or so, until you start seeing healthy bright corals. Which I said was about 30 days, of 100 gallon water changes or every other day off 100 gallon water changes for 30 days, face one of the wave makes to the wall, so it moves the water between the lime stone wall and the rock. When you aquascape it again, make sure to leave room between the lime stone wall and the rock, plenty of GLUES are out there for reef Rock to glue pieces together so they don't fall off. Sorry for the long rant mate. CHEERS!!!!!!!
I have to agree with krkqm2008....although your tank is more than impressive I am NOT a fan of rock walls...this seems to reflect "old school" philosophy. Although my main DT is not the magnitude of your tank (it's only 215 gals) I have mainly 3 large islands. I have a 125 gal sump where I maintain additional rock and I have a 40 gal refugium with additional rock rubble, (all on the same system). You'll have plenty of rock available for coral displays but you need adequate flow in the tank and I think that is going to be harder to achieve in the rockscape you are depicting above. Of course aquascaping is very personal so ultimately it is your choice.
Just my 2 cents.
Frank
Just my 2 cents.
Frank
One Wavebox 6215 and one Wavebox Extension 6215.50 is needed for a tank with a content of 2,000 litres (528 USgal.). Do the Waveboxes have to be located next to each other in case of space problems ?
Two Waveboxes can be placed in opposite corners of the tank; in this case they will operate alternatingly: When one Wavebox operates, the other is switched off, et cetera; Wavecontroller 7092 is used to control the entire system.
Two Waveboxes can be placed in opposite corners of the tank; in this case they will operate alternatingly: When one Wavebox operates, the other is switched off, et cetera; Wavecontroller 7092 is used to control the entire system.
the above paragraph is from Tunze's website itself, i just copied and pasted it, so 2 wave boxes will be enough, some thing else i wanted to add, you have been in this hbby since 93 which is such a long time, so you might know this, when i started in this my local fish store guy, who i think is one of the best people that i have learned this hobby from, said " when you are in this hobby, you should approach it in the sense that you are keeping WATER not the fish the tank or the corals, but WATER, as you had mentioned earlier i think where you said that you do a big water change at the end of the month or after a month, consider a scale of ammonia and phosphate and stuff that is harmful to your tank, 0 to 10 , 10 being the worst, when you do a water change say it goes back to 0, but over the whole month, it slowly goes up, 1234567 and so on, at the end of the month its at 10 again, then again fate a water change it goes to 0, what i learned was that you rather have a consistent 2 or 3, rather than it being at 10 then 0, then 10 then 0, as i wrote up there, consistency is the name of the game, so again, smaller water changes, 100 gallon every other day for 30 days, then when you see the difference, then weekly 15 to 20 % water changes. it might read zero on your hannah meters, but if you have cyano, or haiir algae or the algae in your sump is not growing, that means something is off, so GOOD WATER FLOW, OPEN SPACES, YOur KEEPNG WATER NOT FSH AND CORALS AND OFF CORSE PATENECE. and also i read that you want to change the entire rock and get rid of the old rock, or that is what i think i read, but DONT DO T, yes its ture, that the rocks have stuff in them that spike amonia and phosphates and all the other bad stuff, but with conssitent water changes like i mentioned and good water flow, will take of that, it is a tried method, we thought of doing the same thing with my mate's tank, but just did what i have written up there, it took about 2 to 3 months, but it did the trick, dont wanna go back to zero and start with new rock, or introduce new rock with the old one. again sorry for rambling on and on and on. remember your keeping WATER not corals and fish. 
Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
I am getting rid of all the current rock and will be doing 3-4 islands along with some arches. The dry rock has already come in and I am in the process of building the islands with standoffs so the rock does not sit in the sand at all, but rather sits on stilts to allow water flow under the islands as well. My only concern with the Waveboxes is that I have no way to use the magnets to attach them as I have the tile along with starboard sandwiching the glass. Is there a way to install those Tunze Waveboxes without using the magnets?
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Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
Great points. I am going to start doing smaller more consistent water changes instead of large ones at the end of each month. The rock is going to be completely rescaped with dry rock. I will probably do 1/3rd of the tank at a time so I am not starting over at 0. Thanks again for the advice!
Aquascaping
Aquascaping
I have a 5 to 6 inch sand bed but my rock sits on pvc stands which end slightly beneath the sand surface. Here's a link to my abbreviated build:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1947514&highlight=progress+on+the+fish+room
I use 2 tunze 6105's....1 in each corner with a 7095 controller.
Aquascaping
I have a 5 to 6 inch sand bed but my rock sits on pvc stands which end slightly beneath the sand surface. Here's a link to my abbreviated build:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1947514&highlight=progress+on+the+fish+room
I use 2 tunze 6105's....1 in each corner with a 7095 controller.
Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
I am going to have to get them in and see if there is a way. I only have access to one area of side glass, so I will have to customize the install.
Roggio
New member
I know this has been touched on a bit; however, I can't find a definitive answer. From what I understand limestone and travertine are pretty much the same thing. As a matter of fact- when I was at the store the other day I could see various tube worm tubes made up a lot of the framework for the tiles. They fill the voids in the tile with epoxy and I'm told by the manufacture there is no sealants. I'm so anxious to do something similar to your build. I would, however, use tile as my substrait and try and grow star polyps on it. I'm extremely anxious to do this I'm just worried about the repercussions. As you know, it could be a costly mistake. I'm thinking I might be able to soak the pieces in water and test for pollutants in the water? I also plan on running activated carbon in my tank.
Amazing build by the way
Amazing build by the way
Bennytheblenny
Reef Geek
The tile has been used in hundreds of builds by Reef Aquaria Design with no negative issues. I have tons of tube worms and other critters living on the tile with no problems. I am going to try to grow some montiporas on the tile once I redo the scaping.
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