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A Reef In The Sky
Thanks Noob... The new fuses allow more flexibly regarding power output (flow) and hence wattage. I have elected to use the 24V on the Tunze 6055 as this allows the strongest flow and since the 6105 are currently running at half strength (due to the lower fuse voltage). HTH'sHi Andrew,
An excellent update!!
Corals have definately "TAKEN OFF" with an upward climb
Thanks for the interesting insight on the Tunze pumps. And the difference in transformers. I am getting 6095s for my new tank. Need to check on the transformers.
Regarding changing the fuses.....Could ya give some more details....you said it comes with variety of fuses? And what's the criteria for selecting an output? Is it performance related?
Thanks for the amazing update!!
Hi Walter.. Yes it is still the same back ground.Amazing as usual:wavehand:
One question thou: On your "smaller" version you've used a "gradient" background. I don't know if I've missed that at some point here but I don't think you are using one now. What are you impressions about it?
again congratz!!!
Thanks Crazy!nice!
Thank youbeauty of a build. thanks for sharing.
Thank you Rob. Glad to hear. Stay tuned!You have a beautiful tank sir. The attention to the details is amazing, it's so clean. I always find myself coming back to this thread for inspiration. Great work.
Thank you.. Yes. Patience is the key and not touching the corals!!thats great growth and colours look so much better now
YES!!Looked up those books on Amazon....are they worth THAT price for the set?
Hi eidels!!I'm very interested in trying Zeovit. I haven't seen many examples with a large fishload as yours. Would you mind discussing your feeding regime and the balance btw nutrient load coral health and cyano. What hiccups have you had?
Feeding is one of the most important considerations. Personally I don't feed too much in the new setup. I feed no more than twice per day and I only feed pellets. Occasionally I feed some seaweed for the Tangs and some frozen food but this generally the morning of a water change. Many might consider I under feed but if the fish have fat belly and show a good skin coating...I'm happy.
Before moving apartments last year, I had many more fish and used to feed heavily. Looking back now, I've learnt that it wasn't possible to keep the water parameters as low as I have now with that old feeding regime. People often say that feeding fish heavily helps provide food for the corals. I agree but don't think it is necessary with a SPS dominated Zeovit setup. Why I make this statement is because I dose supplements which are specifically designed for corals as food. Such examples being Food7 and Coral Vitalizer (CV). I have not dosed Amino Acids so therefore can not comment.
I have observed great growth and colours on the corals that I have and at the same time, have been able to keep happy/healthy fish only feeding pellets as their main diet.
To be honest, I am quiet surprised with my water parameters; in particular No3 and Po4. Since Day 1, No3 has been undetectable and Po4 has been really low and currently sits at 0.00. I was a little hesitant in believing my Hanna Po4 meter (old version), so 2 weeks ago I went to a friends place with some of my tank water to test with his Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker. Confirmation was everything was extremely low! I was pleased
Cyano is an interesting phenomenon. I have had my fair share of it over time in this hobby, the worst being in my RSM130 tank. I had some in the the old setup before moving but have been generally blessed so far. In the old apartment I tried Coral Snow but found that it wasn't helpful for me. I know people swear by it but it seemed to make matters worse for me back then so I elected to not use it at all after moving. That being said, I have seen a light 'sprinkle' of Cyano in the new setup from time to time. For me, it generally occurs after 3-4weeks and always starts in one corner; the back left. This is usually the sign that the carbon needs to be replaced so I confirm with my fish calender and bingo, it always falls within the 4th week since the carbon was last replaced. I then go about preparing new carbon and put it in the sump. Within a few days, the 'sprinkle' of cyano has disappeared.
I find water movement (flow) and a TDS of 000 for your RODI water is extremely important in preventing Cynao.
Hope that helps. Any more info required feel free to ask
They were Bartletts and Lyretails.what two types of anthias do you have in the tank in the Reef in the sky 3 vid? I know one of the species are barlett's anthias but what is the other species?
Thanks. I mainly use ATI bulbs due to cost. I have some KZ bulbs left over which I use in case of an emergency.also what brand of t5 bulbs are you using and what are they specifically?? and what is your blue to white ratio?? Amazing tank btw
Current lighting is front to back
ATI Blue +
KZ Super Blue
ATI Blue +
ATI Blue Special
ATI Blue +
ATI Blue Special
ATI Purple +
ATI Blue +
I replaced the 2nd bulb which was ATI Actinic with KZ Superblue to experiement. I'm considering moving the Purple + bulb forward too.
PM sentV1 ...could you please tell me where you bought the Electric Light Lifter please? I'd love to get one for my setup.
x2 daily Start3 0.4mlCan you tell me which zeovit products do you use and how much do you dose?
x2 weekly food7 x3 Drops
x2 weekly Bak x5 Drops
x2 weekly Biomate 5 Drops
x2 weekly CV x3 drops
every 7-10 days 3ml Spur2 (this lightened my corals very quickly but you must be VERY careful not to overdose). It's trial and error and I UNDER dose what is recommended per 25ml. Not worth the risk