sparker1663
New member
Mmmm banana
Mmmm banana
Hi Andrew,
When you had your last ICP test, what was the strontium reading?
I had been dosing 1-2 drops lugols, 0.7ml koral color to 1.5ml trace hard for weeks but 30 mins before taking the water sample i dosed 4 drops lugols, 2ml koral color and 4ml of trace hard. I wanted to see what screamed out as being heavily present in the dosing liquids.
What's the secret recipe of these vitamins ? May be I have missed it so sorry to ask again .
Regards,
Abhishek
Gee.....I been using the biggle's dosing method for months now....lol
Banana Banana holiday!
At least thats how i think the song goes...
Nice looking yellow! been trying to source one of the Yellow acro carolinianas when they pop up! but you have to quick and as it turns out im usually rather slow...
What is the ID of your banana yellow Acro Andrew? I bought a similar coral last Friday that came from your part of the world. It think both corals look very similar. What do you think my Acro is? A coral farmer inn the UK reckons that it could be Acropora anthocercis.
On a separate note why did you stop dosing Koral Color and go back to what you dosed in the past? Is it because you eventually concluded that Koral Color did not in fact impact on coral colouration in long term
and/or suspected that perhaps it inhibits coral growth due to its interference with chlorophyll, or ?
Koral Color seems to work for men as long as I use it in conjunction with TM NP-Bacto-Balance. My corals still grow like stink.
Thank you.
Bülent
I ordered it and will start as soon as it arrives. It's always interesting trying new things.
I believe it's A. caroliniana Bulent, just as yellow caroliniana challenged Brok said earlier...... :wave:
I think it might be either A. anthocercis or A. desalwii. Either way it looks to have been growing in rather gentle currents. If it is anthocercis is was either deep or shaded as it doesn't normally spread out so far with so few upright corallites, it's usually more compact and bushy from top down.
I would pick A. desalwii personally. Most anthocercis i see are multi pigmented in a rainbowy sorta way, yours is colored like most of the desalwii i see.
It's going to be yellow with red polyps if you can make it shine i reckon - my fluoro colors especially the fluoro yellow protein pigments were the most obvious 'pop' i noticed after starting the vitamins. I really hope you are using some or try what i did if not because with your beautiful colors you will see it happen visually in less than a week if your water is vitamin limited.
I stopped everything purely to see if the vitamins made an obvious difference to anything, if the growth had matched the color changes i would still be dosing just vitamins.
That triton test indicated that there was a decent amount of lithium in koral color but the other three ingredients didn't show up despite the big dose just before the test sample was taken.
The high zinc and copper could only have come from the trace hard imo, if it wasn't $50- a test i would have taken a sample before the dosing as well so i actually knew what the water was really sitting at level wise.
I'm glad your acros are growing like stink............... what does the bacto stuff do, what's in it ?
Let's call you stinky Bulent from now on..........:love1:
It's not interesting Pifey, it's cutting edge sciencey stuff mate !
Remember back when i came up with that mirror polish for the noobs at NASA to use on the Hubble lens to fix it, well it's not that cutting edge but it's close.
My vitamin thing came up when i was reading a study on the requirement for vitamin B12 by zooxanthellae.
Now, before i go on i want to point out that the big difference between the open ocean and our closed reef systems imo is the effect our UV lighting has on things in the water. In the ocean everything being removed by UV light is replaced by up welling from deeper down constantly - bugger all change in availability of anything compared to our tanks.
Now lets say vitamins are important to zooxanthellae- some are essential such as B12 according to the study i read, and we all know how important zoox are to our colors. What if many of us have vitamin limited water because of our feeding choices and or the other additives we put in, who knows what extras are added to some of the bottles we use.
Some may be adding vitamins in enough amounts through unintentional additions whereas most are not giving the coral an important 'thing' they require to color and or grow. I add the vitamins right after lights out because i believe the 400W radiums burn away most or all present in the water each day. I always factor in UV destruction of 'stuff' when i read scientific studies not done for the hobby. The paper on vitamins means nothing until you factor in the big differences between the water conditions they are testing compared to our 'something' limited tanks i suspect. UV lighting destroys elements and all sorts of things so try thinking about that every time you are reading a study or article, it can make many things that seem no help a possible solution or at least something worth poking around in.
The effect of UV light on some required elements such as manganese is where bigglejuice began life.
It's not enough to find out exactly what your acros need when our systems are also destroying (UV) or removing (skimmer/carbon) all sorts of things we are not replacing DAILY simply because we can't easily test every bloody thing. Our hobby is way harder than you think..... when you really think about it............. so don't think about it............ i buy acros instead........
Anyway, that was the idea behind daily vitamin dosing. Sorry for the long ramble, don't even know if it made sense lol.
Btw, from the vitamin thing i also went onto auxotroph and autotroph differences in the many different zooxanthellae residing within our acros. What if you bought an acro that had a majority of zoox capable of 'making' their own B12 with the help of the sun and you put it in your vitamin b12 limited tank - might color up better than the acro you bought that can't manufacture enough of it's own B12 so you end up with a tank full of hit and miss acros, some stunning, some ok and many dull.
Now, if you were dosing vitamins both those acros might color up well because both are getting what they need regardless of how auxotrophic or autotrophic they are in relation to particular vitamins some of which are essential. Vitamins aren't the only thing involved obviously but that's what i'm talking about today.
In my opinion if nothing is too out of whack with your water etc, you will see a very noticeable improvement in all colors if you try nightly vitamin dosing. I can't speak for the differences made by other types of dosing alongside the vitamins but i really hope a lot of you at least try a small bottle of the AF vitality with just vitamins in it. No bad effects compared to everything else we chuck in and for some it might put a big smile on your dial.
Have a bloody go !
I believe it's A. caroliniana Bulent, just as yellow caroliniana challenged Brok said earlier...... :wave:
I think it might be either A. anthocercis or A. desalwii. Either way it looks to have been growing in rather gentle currents. If it is anthocercis is was either deep or shaded as it doesn't normally spread out so far with so few upright corallites, it's usually more compact and bushy from top down.
I would pick A. desalwii personally. Most anthocercis i see are multi pigmented in a rainbowy sorta way, yours is colored like most of the desalwii i see.
It's going to be yellow with red polyps if you can make it shine i reckon - my fluoro colors especially the fluoro yellow protein pigments were the most obvious 'pop' i noticed after starting the vitamins. I really hope you are using some or try what i did if not because with your beautiful colors you will see it happen visually in less than a week if your water is vitamin limited.
I stopped everything purely to see if the vitamins made an obvious difference to anything, if the growth had matched the color changes i would still be dosing just vitamins.
That triton test indicated that there was a decent amount of lithium in koral color but the other three ingredients didn't show up despite the big dose just before the test sample was taken.
The high zinc and copper could only have come from the trace hard imo, if it wasn't $50- a test i would have taken a sample before the dosing as well so i actually knew what the water was really sitting at level wise.
I'm glad your acros are growing like stink............... what does the bacto stuff do, what's in it ?
Let's call you stinky Bulent from now on..........:love1:
It's not interesting Pifey, it's cutting edge sciencey stuff mate !
Remember back when i came up with that mirror polish for the noobs at NASA to use on the Hubble lens to fix it, well it's not that cutting edge but it's close.
My vitamin thing came up when i was reading a study on the requirement for vitamin B12 by zooxanthellae.
Now, before i go on i want to point out that the big difference between the open ocean and our closed reef systems imo is the effect our UV lighting has on things in the water. In the ocean everything being removed by UV light is replaced by up welling from deeper down constantly - bugger all change in availability of anything compared to our tanks.
Now lets say vitamins are important to zooxanthellae- some are essential such as B12 according to the study i read, and we all know how important zoox are to our colors. What if many of us have vitamin limited water because of our feeding choices and or the other additives we put in, who knows what extras are added to some of the bottles we use.
Some may be adding vitamins in enough amounts through unintentional additions whereas most are not giving the coral an important 'thing' they require to color and or grow. I add the vitamins right after lights out because i believe the 400W radiums burn away most or all present in the water each day. I always factor in UV destruction of 'stuff' when i read scientific studies not done for the hobby. The paper on vitamins means nothing until you factor in the big differences between the water conditions they are testing compared to our 'something' limited tanks i suspect. UV lighting destroys elements and all sorts of things so try thinking about that every time you are reading a study or article, it can make many things that seem no help a possible solution or at least something worth poking around in.
The effect of UV light on some required elements such as manganese is where bigglejuice began life.
It's not enough to find out exactly what your acros need when our systems are also destroying (UV) or removing (skimmer/carbon) all sorts of things we are not replacing DAILY simply because we can't easily test every bloody thing. Our hobby is way harder than you think..... when you really think about it............. so don't think about it............ i buy acros instead........
Anyway, that was the idea behind daily vitamin dosing. Sorry for the long ramble, don't even know if it made sense lol.
Btw, from the vitamin thing i also went onto auxotroph and autotroph differences in the many different zooxanthellae residing within our acros. What if you bought an acro that had a majority of zoox capable of 'making' their own B12 with the help of the sun and you put it in your vitamin b12 limited tank - might color up better than the acro you bought that can't manufacture enough of it's own B12 so you end up with a tank full of hit and miss acros, some stunning, some ok and many dull.
Now, if you were dosing vitamins both those acros might color up well because both are getting what they need regardless of how auxotrophic or autotrophic they are in relation to particular vitamins some of which are essential. Vitamins aren't the only thing involved obviously but that's what i'm talking about today.
In my opinion if nothing is too out of whack with your water etc, you will see a very noticeable improvement in all colors if you try nightly vitamin dosing. I can't speak for the differences made by other types of dosing alongside the vitamins but i really hope a lot of you at least try a small bottle of the AF vitality with just vitamins in it. No bad effects compared to everything else we chuck in and for some it might put a big smile on your dial.
Have a bloody go !
I hope AF sends you a commission [or a least some free product] for this sudden increase in sales they are probably getting.
Kevin
Whilst looking for an old pic i just stumbled across one from very early in 2016............
I was just using AF vitality ( vitamins ) for the last three weeks at the doses i stated, it has had a profound effect on all colors especially pinks and reds.
I would urge any of you with good growth but so so colors to try it at half strength nightly. If it says 4 drops every second night - half is 2 drops - dose 1 drop every day as soon as the lights are off. We all have big UV sterilizers over our tanks and that destroys lots of good stuff fast which is constantly replenished in the ocean - not in out closed systems.
I promise it won't cause any issues like aminos etc and isn't at all like metal dosing - which btw isn't evil. If you put it in as soon as the lights are off it will be in the water for max time i think.
If you see results you will see them within a week, look for intensification of colors, yellows in particular remain yellow even though my nitrates are 10-15 atm and 0.05 phos.
Anyway............. i am going to look at what i was doing back when i had good colors and very good growth for me and pretty much do that i think - with vitamins
I will keep to my caroliniana hunt! some nice QLD peices popped up in my lfs today which dosent happen as regularly as daves bloody mysitcal shop! Have you seen a white tissue purple polyped a. nasuta? they had one in but looked like it was in horrible shape so i passed on it. Plus i have a suspicion i may turn it green with purple polyps
Nice write of the AF vitality! been dosing it for some time but im out of supplies atm. Your theory makes sense with the amount of lighting we have hovering above our tanks
Thanks for your response Andrew. I have just taken a shower just in case :lolspin: ...
I have a spot for my new A. desalwii/anthocersis. It will receive ~320 mmol/m2/sec PAR with slightly more than gentle currents. I hope to be able to keep its yellow pigments.
You mentioned that you had hardly any coralline algae growth in your tank for some time. Having looked at your ICP results, I can see that strontium needs to increase. Joe (@JBNY) observed that strontium addition to his tank significantly increased coralline algae.
I like your thinking on vitamin supplementation. I would not mind reading on research on B12 dosing if you do not mind sharing what you have read. I read some posts on vitamin C supplementation on various US forums. General consensus is that the way Vitamin C is supplemented, it has pH and alkalinity lowering effect. Have you observed any changes to your alkalinity? This article written by RHF mentions that Vitamin C is an ORP reducer.
You rightly mentioned that UV has a negative impact on vitamins. However, is it not the case that the glass on single ended metal halide bulbs, glass shields on double ended metal halide fixtures as well as acrylic splash protectors on ATI units filter UV. If they did not our corals would die (this is especially the case in MH bulbs) not to mention our retinas.The only scenario I can think of where vitamins are depleted by UV is when one uses a UV steriliser. If vitamins are depleted in reef aquaria, then what else is there to reduce them other than UV,
Heat, ozone, protein skimming? I do not know the answers, hence my question.
Having said all this, I have just invested on a 10-ml bottle of AF Vitality and will begin my experiment as soon as it arrived and will report back. However, I will not stop dosing what I am dosing right now as I know that it is having a positive impact on my tank (or at least it is not killing my corals).
Finally, TM NP-Bacto-Balance contains the following:
- inorganic phosphates;
- inorganic nitrates;
- organic carbon;
- organic phosphates;
- organic nitrogen ("a harmless simple organic N compound that releases ammonia after hydrolysis to avoid the potentially dangerous ammonia itself. The organic N compound is quite stable but can be hydrolyzed by enzymes of corals and bacteria quickly."- Hans-Werner Balling);
- cationic elements (i.e. barium, boron, chromium, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, nickel, strontium and zinc in pure mineral form).
Cheers
Bülent
Beautiful Pics
Great post. Thanks for taking the time to write out your thoughts and theories on all things acropora. I have learned more in the RC SPS Forum section then any other source of information.
I am placing my order now.
I hope AF sends you a commission [or a least some free product] for this sudden increase in sales they are probably getting.
Kevin
Hi Andrew
Just read your thread about AF vitality as it happens I bought the full range a while back and have not used any as people were having issues over here . I have got a 50ml bottle so I will give this a go starting tonight tank is 1000L what dose do you recommend .
Bill
Hey Andrew,
You talk about vitamins and their relation to colour but the one thing you have in spades is colour. Crazy colour!
Growth.. well maybe we shouldn't use the 'g' word at the moment...
B vitamins is a very common additive in many prepared frozen foods available on the market..
I know Vitality contains much more than just B.
Watching to see your corals' reaction.
It has been awhile mate, glad to see thing humming along as usual! I also would love to see the Energy effect on your tank, just saying Hope all is well my friend!
Here are all the vitamins
AF Vitality contains: vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin D3, vitamin E and vitamin K3.
Dosage: 1 drop per 100L (27 US gal.) of water every other day when light is off
I love it when Andrew talks science.
Welcome back Mr. Einstein :wildone:
Hi Biggles,
Thanks for the info on the vitamins. Funny thing is - I was using Aquaforest A,B,E and V. But my nitrates are in 5-10 and phosphates 0.06-0.08 . So stopped Aquaforest A . Many of my frags became lighter and I always been a fan of dark acros. So stopped E as Copper sulphate in it brought some bad memories ..
Build and Vitality are the ones am using now. Now that you say I realise, may be I have been dosing way too much Vitality causing my deep green millepora to get yellowish base . Even my spongodes have yellow base color now.
I have tried yellow millepora in the past but never could keep them. But now , the yellow millepora I have is flourishing yellow even at 3/4 inch .
Vitality does have something that boosts yellow may be . I tried even iron dosing thinking somehow my iron was low and hence greens were fading but no effect .
May be i should slowly cut back on vitality and check .
Regards,
Abhishek