A take on BB methodology.

Something I noticed all over RC is all these guys who list their hobby experience in "Nearly a year or so" or "17 months now", or even right down to the day preaching to everyone on the evils of sand bed or not sand bed, saying Eric doesn't know what he's talking about. It never fails to amaze me all the experts that the internet has spawned (we have a few right here in our local reef club) and they'll go toe to toe with anyone who disagrees with some article they read and adopted as the gospel at some point in their miniscule experience of reefkeeping. I swear sometimes I just want to give up! We are a society of instant gratification. It seems as if people see a nice tank and say "I want THAT in my home" so they duplicate it down to the exact detail, but forgot about the Glade air freshener their wife/girlfriend spritzes about the house because it smells pretty. Something as small as that could mean a world of difference in system performance. Instead of thinking about the problem they post questions here and if they don't get a reply within 10 minutes they give a ^BUMP^, or worse yet they tear down their tank and start over (this time with a bare bottom) because it failed within the first 6 months. Give me a break.
 
Thanks Bomber.

I was mainly concerned with Acropora, Seriatopora and Stylophora as far as the susceptability to absorbing PO4.

Chris:)
 
So what would be the recommendation to Richard to help solve this problem without him going back to sand?

Would running PhosBan or RowaPhos be beneficial in this case? Would blowing the rocks off daily and running a pleated canister filter help?

BTW, I see Bomber that your corals are rather large. Were they fragged and glued to "cooked rocked" or were the rocks that were not touching the actual sandbed but supporting the whole colony transfered?
 
BigDaddyIII said:
How often did you change the water?

I started at 10-15g week near the end i was doing up to 30g's a week.And nitrates kept rising.even with my skimmer pulling 1g aday wet skimmate
But like i stated i ran a dsb for for 7-8 years i took the tank down because it seemed to be suffering from OTS.+ i upgraded to bigger tank went BB and used the same rock.at first things were good the rocks were sheding like mad.levels were good,the rocks then leveled off i did not have to clean the tank much,then things went down hill fast.and became very unstable
Now that i have replaced those rocks i think the BB system might have worked for me,But for now its DSB lots of flow, big skimmer and growing colored SPS.
 
What I don't get is that I had higher nutrients in my old DSB system. I placed corals all over uncooked rock and even in my dirty sandbed and never had them die because they wick up po4.

Bomber, this is the first time that I heard of such a thing (not that I disagree) but I know this is the first time as well for many other reefers to hear that "open" corals can absorb nutrients and die. I don't recall reading anything like this on the BB threads either.

If you could explain in detail or perhaps start a sepertate thread on this issue, that would be great. Maybe others can avoid the problems that I am having.
 
What I don't get is that I had higher nutrients in my old DSB system. I placed corals all over uncooked rock and even in my dirty sandbed and never had them die because they wick up po4.

maybe because the DSB was taking it up faster as the rocks were leaching?
Your problem sounds alot like mine.and i do belive it was because of what ever the rocks were leaching.When i made the change back to DSB i added sand 4 inch.new rocks.only changed 50g of water and corals that were dying are now making a big comeback.i have no stn or rtn problems now.
Just thinking aloud but hope you get it figured out
 
jackson6745 said:
I don't think so because the water in my DSB system tested higher for po4 than my current BB system.

Right,but i was not really refering to P04.i was thinking more the stuff we cant test for or really know about.just throwing a possible idea.
 
thereefgeek said:
or worse yet they tear down their tank and start over (this time with a bare bottom) because it failed within the first 6 months. Give me a break.

You sound like John Stossel. ;)
 
I'm still a little confused about cooking rocks. From reading posts by a number of you I can see how important it is. From what I have read it seems like the purpose of cooking rock is get rid of organics and phosphate that is stored on your rock and at the same time getting rid of the photosynthetic algae while increasing ammonia and nitrite cycling bacteria. I may have mistakenly assumed that if you dry rock out for sometime that the photosynthetic algae will die off along with everything else, is this incorrect? And will the rock continue to store phosphate even when it has been removed from water? Thanks.
 
As far as I understand ... yes, drying rock will kill the algae. It will also leave the all the debris trapped in the rock hanging right there.

So once you get it wet again, it's still as nutrient loaded.

Cooking doesn't require the drying process, and focuses more on the trapped debris/nutrients as once you get rid of them, you have no food for the algae and it cannot live. In a sense, it ignores the algae [as opposed to drying] as once the nutrients are gone the algae will remove itself.
 
The algae will die, but the phosphates, nutrients, etc. will still be in the rock. Phosphates don't evaporate.
 
Thanks,
Okay, but when your cooking the rock do these phosphates and nutrients that have been wicked up get released back into the water naturally (because the water is nutrient poor does it just get released out)?
Bomber said:
it should eventually balance out. You don't want it totally removed. ;) But Redfield says you need very little.
I've some people in threads actually say they were thinking about having two sets of rocks. I think it really interesting the phosphate and nutrients get absorbed by the rock. It also seems that regardless of the system (sand or not) that cooking your rocks is important.
 
brentp said:
The algae will die, but the phosphates, nutrients, etc. will still be in the rock. Phosphates don't evaporate.

Thats why the water changes are important !:p

Swish and dunk and water change ! and repeat as needed !:lol:

The purpose is to let the Bacterea do the work and not any type of algaes . This is why the darkness is important .
 
kimoyo said:
It also seems that regardless of the system (sand or not) that cooking your rocks is important.

Yes , you hit that one right on the head . The bad part about sand though , is your clogging up the bottom holes with the sand which can fill up the rocks again .
 
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