Acclimating/quarantining ???

Rippinfrags

Active member
So I purchased a new baby clownfish today from aquarium arts. I was acclimating the little guy to my quarantine tank and after about 45 min. to an hour I was about to throw him in. I decided to check the salinity before I did and to my surprise the water from AA was at 1.015. Yikes, I keep mine at 1.025 because it comes from my reef tank. Anyways heres the question?

Should I raise the salinity to 1.025 or lower it to start hypo? I generally like to wait until I see signs of disease before I start hypo. However, I'm wondering if aquarium arts is having trouble with fish disease. Which is why there salinity is so low to begin with. As of right now I am raising the salinity. Also I will start prazi pro once he is acclimated. Suggestions?

on a side note make sure you check salinity when acclimating new additions. I think I would of killed the little guy if I would have just thrown
Him into my qt!
 
That really makes you wonder. I have heard of stores keeping salinity at 1.021-1.023 to reduce transmition of diseasws/parasites but 1.015 is VERY low!!

That is where brackish fish like their salinity!!!
 
Personally I would lower it so the fish doesn't get a shock and then do partial water changes each day to raise it slowly.
 
That really makes you wonder. I have heard of stores keeping salinity at 1.021-1.023 to reduce transmition of diseasws/parasites but 1.015 is VERY low!!

That is where brackish fish like their salinity!!!

There water was probably closer to 1.012, I had been acclimating for almost an hour when I checked salinity. That's pretty close to hypo salinity.

Personally I would lower it so the fish doesn't get a shock and then do partial water changes each day to raise it slowly.

I'm going to meet somewhere in the middle and I'm doing it slowly......
 
Im under the impression most LFS keep their swim tanks around 1.016 and any tanks with coral and fish at 1.025. At 1.016 I was told the fish have a lesser chance of developing any kind of disease.
 
Im under the impression most LFS keep their swim tanks around 1.016 and any tanks with coral and fish at 1.025. At 1.016 I was told the fish have a lesser chance of developing any kind of disease.

It's not that there is a lower chance, it's because lower salinity levels mask the symptoms (like the white spots with Ich). The fish still have it but it doesn't show until a few ays after you get it home.
 
It's actually pretty common for most retail/wholesale outlets to keep salinity in dedicated fish systems at 1.015-1.018. They save a fair amount of money in salt by doing such, and the belief is the chance of a parasitic outbreak is lessened.
 
It's actually pretty common for most retail/wholesale outlets to keep salinity in dedicated fish systems at 1.015-1.018. They save a fair amount of money in salt by doing such, and the belief is the chance of a parasitic outbreak is lessened.

That makes sense. What are your quarantining procedures evolved? Do you start hypo right away, or do you wait for signs of disease before you start treatment?
 
1.012-1.015 is awfully low. I would guess that they had been selling fish out of that system and replacing lost water (from bagging) with RO.
 
It's actually pretty common for most retail/wholesale outlets to keep salinity in dedicated fish systems at 1.015-1.018. They save a fair amount of money in salt by doing such, and the belief is the chance of a parasitic outbreak is lessened.

I have heard this as well. I know of (for sure) at least one wholesaler and one reseller (straight from them, not hearsay) in town that does this.
 
What are your quarantining procedures evolved? Do you start hypo right away, or do you wait for signs of disease before you start treatment?
Mind you, I'm really only speaking with regards to wrasses here, but I don't prophylactically treat for ich. I do for internal parasites, however (at least twice). I QT for an absolute minimum of 6, but preferably 8 weeks.

1.012-1.015 is awfully low. I would guess that they had been selling fish out of that system and replacing lost water (from bagging) with RO.
Probably.
 
I run my breeding & grow out system at 1.020 for more then 1 reason. The cost of salt with using over 500 gal. a week & all the cultures are at 1.020 so by keeping it the same their is no shock when I add rotifers to the fry tanks.
 
I run my breeding & grow out system at 1.020 for more then 1 reason. The cost of salt with using over 500 gal. a week & all the cultures are at 1.020 so by keeping it the same their is no shock when I add rotifers to the fry tanks.

Interesting, is there a reason you run your system at 1.020 compared to something even lower like 1.015? If it doesn't hurt anything why not save even more money on salt?
 
The fish can go higher & lower. The high end of salinity for rotifers is 1.020 & that is the low range for copepods. It has been working really good for fish grow out, color & health so no need to change anything.
 
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