Achilles Tang Primer

IFbettas,

what else do you have in the DT?

My other fish are:
7 fairy wrasses
bipartitus leopard wrasse
sunburst anthias
2 banggai cardinals
2 clownfish
small yellow tang added on the same day as the achilles

All of the other fish leave the achilles alone. The little yellow is about a third his size, and they both ignore eachother.

The only thing he eats so far is nori, which I'm giving to him several times per day. I guess I should just ride it out and hope he's able to fight it off?
 
I would leave it be, but that is just my opinion and experience with a keeping a few of them successfully. If it is eating nori that is a real good start. The way I got mine to eat NLS pellets and mysis was to take some nori and crush it up into small small flakes and drop it into my vortech so it would blow around the tank. My achilles loves to eat this way. After a few days of doing that I started mixing in NLS pellets and some mysis the same way through the vortech (or whatever powerhead/return you have in the tank). Eventually, he would eat just the pellets or mysis and I didn't need to mix with nori to get him to eat them. Currently, I feed nori on a clip and supplement him with the NLS pellets. He LOVES NLS pellets the most and goes crazy when I drop them in the tank more than anything else.
 
Taken from the Vortex diatom filter website....

"The Diatom Filter will filter out particles and parasitic life forms down to about one micron in size. We are not particularly after the bacteria. We are after the fish killing parasitic protozoan life forms such Ishthyophtririus Multifiliis (Ich), Chilondonella, Myzobulus Sporozoan, Octonitiasis and other Flagellates, Sporozoa, Leaches, Etc.
It is almost impossible to get rid of all the parasites in an aquarium, but with the proper filtration we can keep the population of parasites low enough so they do not harm healthy fish. Medication sometimes helps, but I am a firm believer that more fish are killed by over treatment with medication than any other cause. Proper filtration is the key.
Oxygen molecules are on the order of 4 Angstroms is size and are unfilterable in the general sense of the word. The Diatom will not filter out the oxygen, in fact it actually reduces carbon dioxide levels in the aquarium because of the speed of the impeller (3,000 R.P.M.). Dissolved gases are liberated and allowed to escape at an accelerated rate."

Some people love them, some people don't believe in them, I wouldn't go without one.

Here is the one I use...

http://www.diatomfilter.com/products/diatom_xl_filter.htm
 
Tonight the achilles looks worse. He's really covered with ich now, but he is still acting normal and eating well. If he doesn't start getting better soon I dont know if he's going to be able to get through this.
 
If he is still eating I would leave him alone. If he stops eating for more than a few days and looks like he is losing weight then I would pull him and treat in QT. Just my opinion though. I was not successful in keeping this fish until I got the uv and ozone unit and then later periodically using the diatom filter to polish the water. The ich works in a life cycle and if you chose not QT the entire tank livestock you must find a way to combat the ich in the display tank by some method of dilution/eradication. Do what you think is best for your situation but I think if you scan through this entire thread those who panicked and pull their achilles at this point in infection typically lose the fish in QT due to stress of catching, moving, environment change, and of course the ich infection weakening the fish. As I said before this is just one person's opinion from my experience keeping the fish. It is obviously always better to start by QTing all fish before they go in your DT. This however is not possible for some hobbyists due to variety of reasons (ex. space, cost, laziness, etc.) so you must do the best you can for your situation.
 
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Thanks for all the help! I've decided I'm going to leave him where he is and try to keep his environment as stress free as possible. I'll keep this updated with my results.
 
Sounds good, good luck, hope he pulls through. Keep the temp stable and keep the water flow high to help with it's respiration/oxygen levels while it fights the ich. If you have a lfs near by try picking up some selcon/vitachem and/or garlic drops to put on the nori and letting it soak in before feeding. Always seems to help mine and can't hurt anything if it doesn't.
 
picked up a small approx 3" one yesterday, the orange spot on the tail is the size of a tic tac. It is currently in QT in a 2x2x1, it ate nori and vitamin enriched brine spirulina after about 10 minutes in the tank. I couldnt believe it.

I am running a 36W UV in there, tunze 6045 and a deltec MCE 600 for the flow/filtration with 15-20lbs of LR.
 
Spent some good time reading through this thread... pretty sad to see so many people don't understand the concept and ideas of proper qt...
 
last night i fed frozen mysis and it kept taking it and spitting it out, any tips to get it eating mysis, this is my preferred food due to protein anf fat content etc.
 
try frozen blood worms first mine loves them if he eats the worms then in a few days you can try the mysis
 
Thanks for all the help! I've decided I'm going to leave him where he is and try to keep his environment as stress free as possible. I'll keep this updated with my results.

How is your fish? Have you tried turning the lights off to slow down ich from multipying? This also helps relax the fish..
 
it is eating nori and live brine but not agressively, i may try some live blood worms too. I need this lil gal fat like me :-)
 
it is eating nori and live brine but not agressively, i may try some live blood worms too. I need this lil gal fat like me :-)

Appears you only just aquired this fish a day or so ago....relax. If it is eating, give it time and it will become more interested as time elapses. In two or three weeks it will likely be a pig.
 
+1 on nori and vortech pump

Intially mine would only eat nori. Then after awhile it started accepting mysis, then to NLS pellets. The key was to have the food tumble around with the current.
 
Appears you only just aquired this fish a day or so ago....relax. If it is eating, give it time and it will become more interested as time elapses. In two or three weeks it will likely be a pig.

So it is not so ciritical to eat a lot right away such as the finiky anthias and regals?

the thing i find strange is it will not touch food in the morning but eats ok in the afternoon/evening.
 
I added a new fish recently, I did QT but she looked good so I didn't treat, now everyone has ich including my achillies. I have had this guy for almost a year and he eats great and still is, will he recover, has anyone had them survive this?
 
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