Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[indyjaco]

Thank you.

I was feeling the same way. If it was out of 3/4" I would be more inclined.

 

[jharding08]

180 gallon Sea Clear Tank - Feedback Needed Please

180 gallon Sea Clear Tank - Feedback Needed Please

Looks like the panels for this 72"x24"x24" are 5/16". It is a Sea Clear tank that online says the panels are 3/8"

is 5/16" too thin for 180 gallons?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Looks like the panels for this 72"x24"x24" are 5/16". It is a Sea Clear tank that online says the panels are 3/8"

is 5/16" too thin for 180 gallons

That's 9mm or 0.354, which is the "metric equivalent" of 3/8" (0.375). That's what we talk about when we say Metric vs Imperial, Plex-G and Acrylite are Metric Equivalent, Polycast is Imperial (actually = 0.375)

3/8" is arguably barely acceptable. I maintain a 200g that is 72 x 24 and over 24" tall (I think 27 but might be 30) and it's "name brand" with bent front corners, I believe it's 1/2" material and the bow on the front of that tank would make you @#$% yourself.

What kills me about that tank is the size of the euro cutouts. So much for getting a nice big show piece in there! Looks like a really old tank.

 

[jharding08]

That's 9mm or 0.354, which is the "metric equivalent" of 3/8" (0.375). That's what we talk about when we say Metric vs Imperial, Plex-G and Acrylite are Metric Equivalent, Polycast is Imperial (actually = 0.375)

3/8" is arguably barely acceptable. I maintain a 200g that is 72 x 24 and over 24" tall (I think 27 but might be 30) and it's "name brand" with bent front corners, I believe it's 1/2" material and the bow on the front of that tank would make you @#$% yourself.

What kills me about that tank is the size of the euro cutouts. So much for getting a nice big show piece in there! Looks like a really old tank.

I didnt even think about getting my rock structures through those euro cutouts. Guess I couldnt make them any bigger could I?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

If you did it right, you probably could. The tight radius on the cutout corners basically negates the need for some material. Imagine a cutout with a corner radius of 1.5" to 2" (or even 2.5" radius) where the center of that arc quadrant lines up with the existing one, then in between the 4 corners is about 1" or so of material that you can do away with and not adversely affect the integrity of the eurobrace. But you would need a good template, stuck on well, and a nice clean routed edge when you're done.

 

[Jah2707]

I have an acrylic sump that I need to add a baffle to. Or at least hope that will help with the microbubble issues I have been having. What would be the best way to add an acrylic baffle to an acrylic sump that is already running?

 

[pandimus]

I have an acrylic sump that I need to add a baffle to. Or at least hope that will help with the microbubble issues I have been having. What would be the best way to add an acrylic baffle to an acrylic sump that is already running?

First and foremost...take it offline..second..might be tough as the acrylic has warped to the shape of the water. Not saying impossible.. also I've not found that adding baffles helps with micro bubbles.but that my opinion

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[Scuba_Steve]

I read this thread and the pins thread way back in the day, but do not think I could read the thousands of pages they now contain. Is there a good clip notes version anywhere with the latest techniques?

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[jharding08]

Can I make the top holes bigger?

Can I make the top holes bigger?

Would I be compromising the structural integrity if I wanted to make the top holes in this tank bigger? Maybe by removing the piece between the small hole and big hole on each side to make one big hole?

I also want to put an external coast to coast overflow on the back, would that help with support or make it worse? *maybe not the full width, but maybe 4 ft?

 

[Scuba_Steve]

I need a little help with router bit selection. I need bits for everything. Edge prep, flush trimming, edge rounding, etc.

I have read a few different recommended bit types, and am flustered.

Upcutting spiral bit for edge prep? I read the wider the better as well, but i don't see any that are wider than the collet used.

Or would a normal fluted bit work?

It would make life so much easier if someone could just recommend bits or a set of bits off amazon so I would be sure I am buying the right thing and a decent bit. I am not made of money, but also know quality is important. My router only accepts 1/4" bits.

If not, as much of a buyers guide, and what to use where would be a big help!

Thanks!

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[dattack]

I need a little help with router bit selection. I need bits for everything. Edge prep, flush trimming, edge rounding, etc.

I have read a few different recommended bit types, and am flustered.

Upcutting spiral bit for edge prep? I read the wider the better as well, but i don't see any that are wider than the collet used.

Or would a normal fluted bit work?

It would make life so much easier if someone could just recommend bits or a set of bits off amazon so I would be sure I am buying the right thing and a decent bit. I am not made of money, but also know quality is important. My router only accepts 1/4" bits.

If not, as much of a buyers guide, and what to use where would be a big help!

Thanks!

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

Edge prep. Double flute router bit. THe wider the better plus 1/2" collet would be less vibration. You can probably do decent edge prep with 1/4" collet though.
Spiral flush trim upcuts are good for routing excess acrylic after glueing. They are expensive.
I typically use whiteside router bits or freud.

 

[Acrylics]

Would I be compromising the structural integrity if I wanted to make the top holes in this tank bigger?

Yes

Maybe by removing the piece between the small hole and big hole on each side to make one big hole?

what you'd end up with in such a case is a tank with effectively a 1" eurobrace in those areas - nope, asking for trouble.

I also want to put an external coast to coast overflow on the back, would that help with support or make it worse? *maybe not the full width, but maybe 4 ft?

I can't tell what size the tank is but it depends.. on a 4' tank, adding a "good" external overflow will increase the rigidity of the back. But adding a 4' overflow to a 6' tank may cause some problems if the top bracing is already compromised. As a generality, tanks like the one you're picturing are not good candidates for external overflows.

To really tell you anything concrete, I'd need to know the size of the tank, size of openings, and material thickness.

James

 

[Acrylics]

I need a little help with router bit selection. I need bits for everything. Edge prep, flush trimming, edge rounding, etc.

I have read a few different recommended bit types, and am flustered.

Upcutting spiral bit for edge prep? I read the wider the better as well, but i don't see any that are wider than the collet used.

Or would a normal fluted bit work?

It would make life so much easier if someone could just recommend bits or a set of bits off amazon so I would be sure I am buying the right thing and a decent bit. I am not made of money, but also know quality is important. My router only accepts 1/4" bits.

If not, as much of a buyers guide, and what to use where would be a big help!

What thickness of material are you trying to machine? IME, anything over 1/4" will *generally* require more than a 1/4" collet to keep cutter flex down.

James

 

[Scuba_Steve]

What thickness of material are you trying to machine? IME, anything over 1/4" will *generally* require more than a 1/4" collet to keep cutter flex down.

James

3/8" is my max right now. Man, i thought I was set. Can't afford a new router right now...

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[Floyd R Turbo]

The router bit will flex more with a larger depth cut. I would think that just making smaller and smaller depth cuts would work...If you are passing the material between the router and the fence, just make the last pass a very small amount and maybe make 2 passes with same fence position setting.

 

[Scuba_Steve]

The router bit will flex more with a larger depth cut. I would think that just making smaller and smaller depth cuts would work...If you are passing the material between the router and the fence, just make the last pass a very small amount and maybe make 2 passes with same fence position setting.

What would you consider a small cut to be? 1/16, 1/32?

I am probably going to build a custom fence and set and forget it at that depth. I will just make all my cuts small.

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[peppie]

What would you consider a small cut to be? 1/16, 1/32?

I am probably going to build a custom fence and set and forget it at that depth. I will just make all my cuts small.

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In my experience I would consider a light cut the depth of 1 to 2 layers of masking tape. I dont use a router table to prep my edges . I use a MDF pattern. I rough cut the acrylic to 1/8'' over the finish dimension. clamp it to the pattern and mask the edges of the pattern ,3-4 layers thick. Make a pass, pull off a layer, make a pass, pull off a layer, and so on .

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

For a pattern cut, I don't worry about masking on the pattern template but this is actually not that bad of an idea. Big cuts can result in pitting, this would help avoid that if you didn't have a (big) router table and had to do everything by hand or via a table top router. Good tip!!!

 

[Scuba_Steve]

Ok, can I get a second opinion on how thick a light cut would entail?

Not that I dont trust the last recommendation. But he did say he was a pattern bit router user. I am going to be using a fence though.

BTW, I looked up the thickness of an average piece of masking tape. 6 mils, or appx 1/128th of an inch. If I used the two piece recommendation, that will be about 1/64th in.

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[GlassReef]

Need your opinion on tubing thickness

Need your opinion on tubing thickness

I have quite a bit of experience working with acrylic. I've done tank, sumps, reactors, etc.

I need a large calcium reactor - pretty much along the lines of a Geo 1218. I'm retired, so there's not a lot of cash that can be spent. I have everything I need to complete the reactor in my overstock from past projects. Got 1/2" cast sheet for the top & bottom, all the sched. 80 fittings, and pipe required. Even have a new Eheim 1262 that has never been used. The thing is - the 12" cast tubing I have is 1/8" thick. Assuming I use a 22" column - I would put in about 35 lbs of media - does anyone think the tube would hold up?

Thanks.