AI Hydra Settings Thread
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ssick92
New member
Hey everyone,
I am trying to tune my AI Prime HD that I currently have over my IM Nuvo 10 cube (12"x12"x12" roughly of usable tank space). I can't really figure out if I have enough light at my current settings. Some of my zoas are drooping (similar to the picture below, not my actual coral)
When I introduced my corals, I got good growth for the first couple months, but I'm starting to think I am starving them of light because the growth is slowing... I have Acro's, LPS, zoas, mushrooms -- basically a completely mixed reef. SPS are encrusting slowly (some of the areas that are in shadows are starting to lose tissue), and have slightly less PE than a month ago and they are not growing taller. My chalice has shown significant growth, and their feeder tentacles extend to about 4" daily. My zoas are multiplying slowly, but doing the "umbrella" effect and don't have great coloring.
I currently run my blues at 40 (peak), whites at 15 (peak), green, red, violet, at 10 and UV at 25. Since it is such a small tank I am not sure if I need to really push these numbers up or not...
Any thoughts? I have the light about 10" AWL.
I am trying to tune my AI Prime HD that I currently have over my IM Nuvo 10 cube (12"x12"x12" roughly of usable tank space). I can't really figure out if I have enough light at my current settings. Some of my zoas are drooping (similar to the picture below, not my actual coral)
When I introduced my corals, I got good growth for the first couple months, but I'm starting to think I am starving them of light because the growth is slowing... I have Acro's, LPS, zoas, mushrooms -- basically a completely mixed reef. SPS are encrusting slowly (some of the areas that are in shadows are starting to lose tissue), and have slightly less PE than a month ago and they are not growing taller. My chalice has shown significant growth, and their feeder tentacles extend to about 4" daily. My zoas are multiplying slowly, but doing the "umbrella" effect and don't have great coloring.
I currently run my blues at 40 (peak), whites at 15 (peak), green, red, violet, at 10 and UV at 25. Since it is such a small tank I am not sure if I need to really push these numbers up or not...
Any thoughts? I have the light about 10" AWL.
Last edited:
2 New Hydra 26HD's
2 New Hydra 26HD's
I just set up 2 new hydra 26 hd's on my 4ft 90 gallon. I was having trouble with two different things. First, how can you tell if you're setup directly or through your wifi. It seems I had all my setting right on my iPad, I then wanted to check it out on my iPhone, when I opened up the app it changed all my settings, wasn't sure why this occurred. Also, at night when it was supposed to be completely off, one light was showing and very mild solid blue and the other was flashing green. Again wasn't sure why this was happening. I really like these lights but the setup sure has been confusing.
2 New Hydra 26HD's
I just set up 2 new hydra 26 hd's on my 4ft 90 gallon. I was having trouble with two different things. First, how can you tell if you're setup directly or through your wifi. It seems I had all my setting right on my iPad, I then wanted to check it out on my iPhone, when I opened up the app it changed all my settings, wasn't sure why this occurred. Also, at night when it was supposed to be completely off, one light was showing and very mild solid blue and the other was flashing green. Again wasn't sure why this was happening. I really like these lights but the setup sure has been confusing.
I think blinking light means not connected to network. My advice reset lights then try to use your computer to connect and set them up. Found it far easier to do it this way than with iPhone. Also this way you can upload other folks schedules to light. Can't do that with phone. These lights are a bit finicky overall. Prefer my gen4 Radions with reeflink. So much easier to program and a killer light.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
If connected to an outside network the indicator led should be green. If you are running in parent with a child set up I would ditch this set up and go with individual parent lights. Idk why but the parent with a child lighting always gave me issues. If you want the lights to run the same schedule you can download the settings from one light and upload to the other via the myAI browser app. Finally you can see if your light is connected to wifi via the app under the settings tab for a given light.
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So after reading through this article (http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf) by World Wide Corals and ecotech I have decided to give their settings a try and adapt them to AI HD lighting. I have changed it slightly to include the built in respiration peaks (I am a big believer in including respiration peaks to give the corals a break from the most intense lighting just like clouds or choppy seas do on a reef) but have extended my photo max to 7 hrs and shortened the ramps. This is still longer then in the study at an 11 hr total photo period vs 9 in the study. I did this so I could enjoy the tank when I get home from work and don't think a few hrs will make a huge difference. The AI lights work a bit differently then the Radions though so even though im pushing more white/red/green the overall intensity is less. I did this on purpose since I run my lights closer to the water line. Also, I tried to take into account the differences between the amount/types of diodes between the Hydra HD's and Radions and adjust ratios accordingly. If you want to run their schedule to a t just shorten the ramps to 1 hr on each side while keeping the peak the same. I'm excited to get some input from you guys and my tank, also below is the link to my .aip if you want to give it a try! https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdjsRFPUuvDNEyYXw
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OV, thank you for sharing this. I'm giving this schedule a try. I set my acclimation to 50% white and 30% for the rest of the values for the next 6 weeks as my wattage at peak prior was in the mid 60's compared to 85 with this schedule. Hoping for the best.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
AI Hydra Settings Thread
No problem I'm excited someone actually responded. This thread seems to have gone dead over the last few months.
As for the lighting I am really liking it so far. Even though I am not a fan of lighting that is this blue, I can not deny how the corals have responded since I made the change. Please update and let me know what you think as your acclimation proceeds.
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No problem I'm excited someone actually responded. This thread seems to have gone dead over the last few months.
As for the lighting I am really liking it so far. Even though I am not a fan of lighting that is this blue, I can not deny how the corals have responded since I made the change. Please update and let me know what you think as your acclimation proceeds.
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How long ago have you changed the lighting? Are you SPS dominant? Been having problems with my tank as of late. Trying to figure out what to do.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
I changed about 2 weeks ago and I am not sps dominant by any stretch. I only have a few sps (by choice I'm not a colorful stick fan [emoji23]) but I do have other high light demand animals such a calms/anemones and everything has responded well.Finally the few sps I do have colored up nicely and have never looked better. Also, they have a sister study on flow which is another interesting read, see below for the link. I don't know if either of these are the cure for your sps woes but doing nothing certainly is not. Happy Reefing!
http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/World_Wide_Corals_CoralLab.pdf
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Bashment - I have two Hydra lights (older 52's) and one Hydra 52 along with the Director. I downloaded the AIP file you linked to but the AI Director won't let me upload it. Do you have a current version? Also, what program would I use to edit the file manually?
It gives me the error "The version of these settings is incompatible and cannot be imported."
Thanks for your help.
It gives me the error "The version of these settings is incompatible and cannot be imported."
Thanks for your help.
same here, please
125mph
New member
My setting on hydra 52 (not HD) are below... each time I try to increase intensity, my haddoni starts moving to find shade. Last week he was at the corner of the tank where par meter shows about 80 par. I increased the blues by 1 and now he on the move again.
I have a bta sitting on a rock at 150 par and he hasn't ever moved.
Is my par meter defective or does the Haddoni really not like that much light?
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I have a bta sitting on a rock at 150 par and he hasn't ever moved.
Is my par meter defective or does the Haddoni really not like that much light?
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Wazzel
New member
It is not bad your green is set high. They are fewer, lower powered diodes than blue, blue and white. They really do not contribute much to the power output of the light. I run all of my colors at the same level, except white which is lower.
Thanks. More specifically...
My set-up right now (with the Controller) is:
4p - 3a (with 3 hours of Sunrise/Sunset Ramp)
3a 0 4p OFF (Night - all 0%)
What I'm trying to achieve is:
4p - 3a (with 3 hours of Sunrise/Sunset Ramp)
3a - 7a (Night - 1%)
7a - 4p OFF (Night - 0%)
Can't seem to do that with the Controller. Would I be able to have that much control with the Director?
Orcus Varuna
New member
I would say center hung run horizontally because I'm quite sure you scape will follow the back wall.
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markster33139
New member
I am trying to do the same thing as Scurry. I know how to do the night mode (set blue to 1%) but then I want them to turn off completely for a few hours. In my case I would like to run night mode from midnight to 7am, then off from 7am to 2pm. Can't seem to figure this out from the MY AI software.
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Olderreefer
New member
It's been a long time since I've used the controller but I think you may just need to set up two more timers to control the night/moon light you are looking for. One timer to turn on the color you want at 3a and one to turn it back off at 7a.
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