AI Hydra Settings Thread

Trying Brighter LED Settings

Trying Brighter LED Settings

My tank specs: 75-gallon Bare Bottom Tank with two AI Hydra Fifty-Two units, positioned parallel to the tank, centered above the tank at 10.75" above the waterline. The layout looks like this:

Hanging Lights Above Aquarium:

20160507_174559_zpskbltpeax.jpg



The Problem:

Taking a cue from Sonicboom in Post No. 105 of this thread (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21950860&postcount=105), I have decided to try some brighter LED settings for my AI Hydra Fifty-Twos. My hard corals were dying, and I got really tired of their dying. So my next theory on their death was that the lighting was set too low.

My old settings:

1. Ramping up for 3 hours, beginning at 6:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 3 hours, beginning at 6:05 p.m.

Violet:47%
D-Blue: 69%
UV:47%.

2. Ramping up for 2 hours, beginning at 7:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 2 hours, beginning at 6:05 p.m.

Royal: 69%

3. Ramping up for 1 hour, beginning at 8:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 1 hour, beginning at 6:05 p.m.;

White:33%
Red:33%
Green:33%

Under these settings, the color of the LED lighting took on a purple-ish tint and was not very white-ish.
The deathknell to these settings was probably that I used acclimate-corals feature at 50% of these settings for a month.

RESULT: Hard corals languished and died. Here is a picture of the once-pink coral that appeared to brown and flake off, before it died a hard death:

20160412_164806_zpsyr0yvowg.jpg


*********

My new settings (copying Sonicboom, per above referenced in this thread):

1. Ramping up for 2.5 hours, beginning at 8:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 4.5 hours, beginning at 3:30 p.m.

White: 45%;
Violet:65%;
Red: 40%;
Green: 40%
D-Blue: 75%;
Royal: 75%;and
UV:65%.

Coral Acclimation setting: 20% for one week and 10% for another week. The color of the new settings for LED lighting took on a more white-ish tint and was no longer very purple-ish.

I began the switch to these changed LED settings three (3) days ago, on 5/7/2016. Here is a photo of three hard corals at the time they were added to my tank on 5/7/2016, a purple-and-green brain coral frag; an acropora; and a green candy-cane coral:

(1) purple-and-green brain coral and (2) acropora (in front of brain coral):

20160505_095944_zps9oqumqeo.jpg


and (3) candy cane coral:

20160505_100022_zpszxxno09x.jpg


We'll see if these new, brighter LED settings will help. Based on SonicBoom's post, I suspect that my lighting was too low.

Anyone had success with SonicBoom's settings? What are your thoughts? Thank you.
 
Last edited:
My tank specs: 75-gallon Bare Bottom Tank with two AI Hydra Fifty-Two units, positioned parallel to the tank, centered above the tank at 10.75" above the waterline. The layout looks like this:

Hanging Lights Above Aquarium:

20160507_174559_zpskbltpeax.jpg



The Problem:

Taking a cue from Sonicboom in Post No. 105 of this thread (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21950860&postcount=105), I have decided to try some brighter LED settings for my AI Hydra Fifty-Twos. My hard corals were dying, and I got really tired of their dying. So my next theory on their death was that the lighting was set too low.

My old settings:

1. Ramping up for 3 hours, beginning at 6:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 3 hours, beginning at 6:05 p.m.

Violet:47%
D-Blue: 69%
UV:47%.

2. Ramping up for 2 hours, beginning at 7:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 2 hours, beginning at 6:05 p.m.

Royal: 69%

3. Ramping up for 1 hour, beginning at 8:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 1 hour, beginning at 6:05 p.m.;

White:33%
Red:33%
Green:33%

Under these settings, the color of the LED lighting took on a purple-ish tint and was not very white-ish.
The deathknell to these settings was probably that I used acclimate-corals feature at 50% of these settings for a month.

RESULT: Hard corals languished and died. Here is a picture of the once-pink coral that appeared to brown and flake off, before it died a hard death:

20160412_164806_zpsyr0yvowg.jpg


*********

My new settings (copying Sonicboom, per above referenced in this thread):

1. Ramping up for 2.5 hours, beginning at 8:00 a.m.; and ramping down for 4.5 hours, beginning at 3:30 p.m.

White: 45%;
Violet:65%;
Red: 40%;
Green: 40%
D-Blue: 75%;
Royal: 75%;and
UV:65%.

Coral Acclimation setting: 20% for one week and 10% for another week. The color of the new settings for LED lighting took on a more white-ish tint and was no longer very purple-ish.

I began the switch to these changed LED settings three (3) days ago, on 5/7/2016. Here is a photo of three hard corals at the time they were added to my tank on 5/7/2016, a purple-and-green brain coral frag; an acropora; and a green candy-cane coral:

(1) purple-and-green brain coral and (2) acropora (in front of brain coral):

20160505_095944_zps9oqumqeo.jpg


and (3) candy cane coral:

20160505_100022_zpszxxno09x.jpg


We'll see if these new, brighter LED settings will help. Based on SonicBoom's post, I suspect that my lighting was too low.

Anyone had success with SonicBoom's settings? What are your thoughts? Thank you.



I would bring the lights towards the outside of the tank a little more. It'll help even out your spread and eliminate wasting light on the center brace.
c9a6101e29e623efa52703b2ec3a78d8.jpg
 
I would bring the lights towards the outside of the tank a little more. It'll help even out your spread and eliminate wasting light on the center brace.
c9a6101e29e623efa52703b2ec3a78d8.jpg


Thanks, Jewilson. I hadn't thought of that. That would seem logical. I'll give it a try...
Upon further inspection, the units are set as far apart as they can be set, with the length of the connector bar joining them. I would have to buy a larger bar. We'll see if what I have now will work with the changed settings. But a good idea to set them farther apart.
 
Thanks, Jewilson. I hadn't thought of that. That would seem logical. I'll give it a try.



No problem. I have the same setup and noticed the same thing on my own. So when your SPS started dying was the tissue peeling? Did they turn brown? White?
 
No problem. I have the same setup and noticed the same thing on my own. So when your SPS started dying was the tissue peeling? Did they turn brown? White?

Exactly: the tissue seemed to lose its natural pink color; it was a pink bird's nest. It seemed to turn brownish. Then, I thought the problem had to do with a high water flow--as if the water flow was sand-blasting off the outer layer. I thought this because there was medium flow in direct line of the powerhead about midway in the tank. It began to turn white-ish. I moved it away from the medium water flow, but it never recovered. So yes: first brown; then peeling; then white.

I just don't want the current, new hard corals to die. My water quality is pretty decent, and I do weekly 10% water changes. I export nutrients with an algae turf scrubber, but my protein skimmer is kind of lame. I have also begun feeding my corals, soft and hard alike, after reading some articles that feeding hard corals can help spur growth. I am spot-feeding them Oyster Feast, Rodi Feast, and R.O.E. Hopefully, this is not crazy.
 
Exactly: the tissue seemed to lose its natural pink color; it was a pink bird's nest. It seemed to turn brownish. Then, I thought the problem had to do with a high water flow--as if the water flow was sand-blasting off the outer layer. I thought this because there was medium flow in direct line of the powerhead about midway in the tank. It began to turn white-ish. I moved it away from the medium water flow, but it never recovered. So yes: first brown; then peeling; then white.



I just don't want the current, new hard corals to die. My water quality is pretty decent, and I do weekly 10% water changes. I export nutrients with an algae turf scrubber, but my protein skimmer is kind of lame. I have also begun feeding my corals, soft and hard alike, after reading some articles that feeding hard corals can help spur growth. I am spot-feeding them Oyster Feast, Rodi Feast, and R.O.E. Hopefully, this is not crazy.



Birds are pretty easy compared to other SPS like Acros. Montis being easier. Birds also do great in high flow. I'm thinking it wasn't your lighting but then again if it was browning it could be d/t you lighting or your nutrients being too high. Did you have it in the upper half of the tank? Feeding will increase growth but don't feed too much. Especially if your skimmer isn't up to par. Your nutrients will rise. SPS will benefit more from lighting than feeding. They will also benefit from you feeding your fish (corals live fish poop lol). Just keep your nutrients in check. Also invest in a quality skimmer. It'll save many headaches in the future. I hope everything works out for you with SPS (hard corals). They are so addicting and I've had a huge loss because of a trip out of town. I didn't have things in order before I left. Stupid error with Kalkwasser back in March. Lost 15 colonies and 12 frags. The rest went pale but it took a month and a half for things to bounce back and now my tank is back to amazing. Like I said I hope everything work out for you. Hydras are the best! I added 2 retro T5s to eliminate shading in the future. Here's some pics.
5274464525468976022dc934aff5f9df.jpg
04728c239ba889d9022dbb2767aae101.jpg
2f61b1ab94ada5ebfd9a1ed94693f999.jpg
dd74923459e55f53abee066d03f205e9.jpg
9f7f9fc4bf6d17cc38f19769eb0b1db3.jpg
5b449d147502356c09cd5b09ab0ce22d.jpg
8b37a2d0856d47effceea57c4260ed71.jpg
4ffe3619cacb683c33758a928343e56e.jpg
 
Birds are pretty easy compared to other SPS like Acros. Montis being easier. Birds also do great in high flow. I'm thinking it wasn't your lighting but then again if it was browning it could be d/t you lighting or your nutrients being too high. Did you have it in the upper half of the tank? Feeding will increase growth but don't feed too much. Especially if your skimmer isn't up to par. Your nutrients will rise. SPS will benefit more from lighting than feeding. They will also benefit from you feeding your fish (corals live fish poop lol). Just keep your nutrients in check. Also invest in a quality skimmer. It'll save many headaches in the future. I hope everything works out for you with SPS (hard corals). They are so addicting and I've had a huge loss because of a trip out of town. I didn't have things in order before I left. Stupid error with Kalkwasser back in March. Lost 15 colonies and 12 frags. The rest went pale but it took a month and a half for things to bounce back and now my tank is back to amazing. Like I said I hope everything work out for you. Hydras are the best! I added 2 retro T5s to eliminate shading in the future. Here's some pics.
5274464525468976022dc934aff5f9df.jpg
04728c239ba889d9022dbb2767aae101.jpg
2f61b1ab94ada5ebfd9a1ed94693f999.jpg
dd74923459e55f53abee066d03f205e9.jpg
9f7f9fc4bf6d17cc38f19769eb0b1db3.jpg
5b449d147502356c09cd5b09ab0ce22d.jpg
8b37a2d0856d47effceea57c4260ed71.jpg
4ffe3619cacb683c33758a928343e56e.jpg

Wow! Those corals look amazing! We'll see if I can keep my corals in line. Thanks.
 
I'll be posting my apex numbers as well as my par readings here in a few hours, gotta wait for my lights to reach their "max" settings for mid day.
 
Is having the uv so high nuking the coral ? I see threads where they are high others low ...... And on google sites I see natural uv is 7 percent, so confused on uv setting,
 
Is having the uv so high nuking the coral ? I see threads where they are high others low ...... And on google sites I see natural uv is 7 percent, so confused on uv setting,

No it is not. The UV diodes are low powered and only 1 per puck. The relative power of the UV (red, green and violet too) compared to blue and white make them almost irrelevant. If you have the levels of all the channels set the same those 4 channels together only account for 13% of the total output.
 
Hey guys, Has anyone replaced there led bulbs. I have replaced pucks. Im tired of the royal blues going out. Is it possible to change individual leds.This is on the standard Hydra fixture.
 
Hey guys, Has anyone replaced there led bulbs. I have replaced pucks. Im tired of the royal blues going out. Is it possible to change individual leds.This is on the standard Hydra fixture.

Oh be ready for the disaster!!!! I have been dealing with this issue for over 6 months:hmm5: I have 3 hydra fixtures with a director. I have been sent 6 pucks (3 of them old SOL pucks) call them they don't actually read the email.

I hope this advice helps you. Insist on all four pucks and controller be replaced, you can not just change out one puck - the unit will stop working. I do truly believe the standard hydra has major flaws. The royal blue's will burn out and the UV's could also. I have personally paid $200 in shipping and parts, hrs of aggravation. Not sure the merger was a good idea. the burn out rate is unacceptable I could have replaced T5's at the rate of failure these Hydra's cost me.
If you have had the fixture over 2 yrs the LED degradation is very rapid. I was a big fan of this fixture but I think the $ vs replacement of the Hydra tech you will have to look at other LED options or stick with T5.

if you need help PM me I really don't want to bash a product in public. I know many have this same issue.
 
I thought I'd chip in my 2c.

I have had mine for over 2 years now, and I have replaced all three of my original boards and all 12 pucks in mine at least once over. I live in Australia so its difficult to get parts, I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and upgrade to 52's, but the upgrade kits are sold out.

I've managed to work out that the blues are linked between the 2 pucks, so that if only 1 led fails, it will take out 1 on each puck. I've managed to breath some life into my hydra's by going through the pile of old pucks I have and mix and matching, sometimes getting a working pair, but at the moment 2 of my fixtures have 2 Blue LED's dead.

I don't know what I'm supposed to do, I don't want to keep buying more blue pucks. I'd rather upgrade to 52's, but I don't want to buy a whole new fixture. That stuff is expensive.

Any ideas?
 
I thought I'd chip in my 2c.

I have had mine for over 2 years now, and I have replaced all three of my original boards and all 12 pucks in mine at least once over. I live in Australia so its difficult to get parts, I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and upgrade to 52's, but the upgrade kits are sold out.

I've managed to work out that the blues are linked between the 2 pucks, so that if only 1 led fails, it will take out 1 on each puck. I've managed to breath some life into my hydra's by going through the pile of old pucks I have and mix and matching, sometimes getting a working pair, but at the moment 2 of my fixtures have 2 Blue LED's dead.

I don't know what I'm supposed to do, I don't want to keep buying more blue pucks. I'd rather upgrade to 52's, but I don't want to buy a whole new fixture. That stuff is expensive.

Any ideas?

I had the same idea and upgrading - but i know 52's have had the same issues on led burn out and fade. It's like throwing $ at a bad system imho right now i hope to sell these hydra's (once they all work) and look into an LED/t5 hybrid or go with a proven LED system.
It's very frustrating and stresses out live stock. These where not cheep and I thought I did my research, had good feed back. Short term they were fine but if your planning to stay in the hobby for long term check out higher end or check out other options.
(these do tend to burn out quickly if enclosed with little air flow - mine are open with lots of air flow.)

The frustrating part is they respond quickly and seem to be on the ball. But they actually have little quality control and just send out random led pucks random drivers - the CS people seem very nice and helpful but the tech side seems not to have a clue.

Sorry to AI if they are upset what I wrote - I know you have come out with some great products since.
I also feel bad if anyone bought these light because I said great things about them and the CS. The first time my fan and UV burnt out they did a great job. After the merger tho it was not good, and the first year they were great year two they virtually needed to be replaced.
 
Oh be ready for the disaster!!!! I have been dealing with this issue for over 6 months:hmm5: I have 3 hydra fixtures with a director. I have been sent 6 pucks (3 of them old SOL pucks) call them they don't actually read the email.

I hope this advice helps you. Insist on all four pucks and controller be replaced, you can not just change out one puck - the unit will stop working. I do truly believe the standard hydra has major flaws. The royal blue's will burn out and the UV's could also. I have personally paid $200 in shipping and parts, hrs of aggravation. Not sure the merger was a good idea. the burn out rate is unacceptable I could have replaced T5's at the rate of failure these Hydra's cost me.
If you have had the fixture over 2 yrs the LED degradation is very rapid. I was a big fan of this fixture but I think the $ vs replacement of the Hydra tech you will have to look at other LED options or stick with T5.

if you need help PM me I really don't want to bash a product in public. I know many have this same issue.

I just purchased two new Hydra 26HDs. They are linked as parent and child. I was just going through each light individually and my blue lights on the one unit are much brighter than the ones on the other. I've just contacted AI for a solution to the problem.
 
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