samherston073
New member
Hey Orcus... I will DEF take some pics... I will post one tomorrow and then again every couple of weeks..... how do I post the pic on here where it shows up big and not sideways..??
AI Hydra Settings Thread
- Thread starter hilgert
- Start date
Best to get a photo account like Photobucket where you can upload the photos, then create link in your post here.
Came across this thread and seems everyone loves the settings Orcus Varuna provided.
I'm setting up a new Innovative Marine 30L tank (36 x 11 x 13) and would like to know what setting to use? I have two Hydra 26's that I using and apparently these are not comparable with his exported files.
Does anyone have the setting available for the older Hydra 26's I can import into the Director?
I'm setting up a new Innovative Marine 30L tank (36 x 11 x 13) and would like to know what setting to use? I have two Hydra 26's that I using and apparently these are not comparable with his exported files.
Does anyone have the setting available for the older Hydra 26's I can import into the Director?
Splashyfishy
New member
I thought my nems were getting better, but they are still dark, puny unhappy, moving around in the same area, but these were huge bubbled up happy rosey nems that never moved under the old lights I had.
Very discouraging to me. Even my leather is still unhappy, he reacts to my brushing the cyano off him but refuses to put out any polyps at all...hasn't opened up at all for a full week.
Doing WC every 5 to 8 days trying to get rid of the cyano and testing comes up with no surprises. I lost a yellow tang in there overnight (I knew she had lateral line and she wasn't eating hardly at all) and never found remains, I guess the crabs disposed of them pretty well. No spike in ammonia nor nitrates at all. Even raised my Monticap up onto a new rock so he'd be higher in the tank and nearer the lights.
I have also put my Hydra Koralias back in to try to increase flow over the sandbed to discourage the cyano. This new tank is an absolute mess.
I do detect a slight increase in color and polyps on the Monti to be fair, but it's still a shadow of its former beauty.:worried:
Very discouraging to me. Even my leather is still unhappy, he reacts to my brushing the cyano off him but refuses to put out any polyps at all...hasn't opened up at all for a full week.
Doing WC every 5 to 8 days trying to get rid of the cyano and testing comes up with no surprises. I lost a yellow tang in there overnight (I knew she had lateral line and she wasn't eating hardly at all) and never found remains, I guess the crabs disposed of them pretty well. No spike in ammonia nor nitrates at all. Even raised my Monticap up onto a new rock so he'd be higher in the tank and nearer the lights.
I have also put my Hydra Koralias back in to try to increase flow over the sandbed to discourage the cyano. This new tank is an absolute mess.
I do detect a slight increase in color and polyps on the Monti to be fair, but it's still a shadow of its former beauty.:worried:
Orcus Varuna
New member
AI Hydra Settings Thread
Splashy not to sound mean but I highly doubt the lights are causing your issues. Lighting is the least important component to healthy livestock IMO by a mile. Since the tank is still new I would honestly let the tank ride and not do a water change for 3-4 weeks. I think you are fueling the cyano with the constant water changes and driving nitrate too low/out of balance with phosphate. This is causing your systems bacterial makeup to move toward cyano thus ****ing everything off. Back off the maintenance schedule, feed more and let the tank go/age a bit. During this time you can try something like Dr tims or prodibio to rebalance the bacterial make up of the tank. Also, if you choose to follow this the tank will look worse before it gets better but in the end I am a firm believer that it will be better off. Hope this helps.
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Splashy not to sound mean but I highly doubt the lights are causing your issues. Lighting is the least important component to healthy livestock IMO by a mile. Since the tank is still new I would honestly let the tank ride and not do a water change for 3-4 weeks. I think you are fueling the cyano with the constant water changes and driving nitrate too low/out of balance with phosphate. This is causing your systems bacterial makeup to move toward cyano thus ****ing everything off. Back off the maintenance schedule, feed more and let the tank go/age a bit. During this time you can try something like Dr tims or prodibio to rebalance the bacterial make up of the tank. Also, if you choose to follow this the tank will look worse before it gets better but in the end I am a firm believer that it will be better off. Hope this helps.
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Agree with Orcus it's not the lights. Looks like you tank is still cycling and has the typical new tank syndrome. For now try Dr. Tim's Waste Away. Stick with the directions on the bottle for dosing. It worked great for me and got rid of my cyano but did take a few weeks. I did do water changes every 2-3 weeks during the time and maunally sucked out as much cyano as I could. Cyano, diatoms and algae are typical in any new tank set up until the tank settles. This could take 3-6 months. Patience is key. And don't add any new corals during this phase until things begin to look better.
ANYONE little help
Came across this thread and seems everyone loves the settings Orcus Varuna provided.
I'm setting up a new Innovative Marine 30L tank (36 x 11 x 13) and would like to know what setting to use? I have two Hydra 26's that I using and apparently these are not comparable with his exported files.
Does anyone have the setting available for the older Hydra 26's I can import into the Director?
Came across this thread and seems everyone loves the settings Orcus Varuna provided.
I'm setting up a new Innovative Marine 30L tank (36 x 11 x 13) and would like to know what setting to use? I have two Hydra 26's that I using and apparently these are not comparable with his exported files.
Does anyone have the setting available for the older Hydra 26's I can import into the Director?
Orcus Varuna
New member
Unfortunately I dont. You can set a rough approximation though by setting UV & V to 80 DB & B to 90 and WR & G to 25 for 7hrs with 2 hr ramps on each side for a total photo period of 11 hrs. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply. I had thought you were also changing the settings every 15 minutes or so simulating clouds or something to that effect? Ramping up and down. Can you post a pic or graph of your settings so I can try and copy them?
Orcus Varuna
New member
I am what I posted was a rough approximation of what my settings average to over the course of the day. If you want to you can build in the respiration peaks your self it will just take you a few hours to add all of those points.
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I can set them no problem but you're leaving out details which would help a lot.
Are these the average or the peak? If peak how much are you lowering them? All values are adjusted? Duration? If you can post a pic of it that would help tremendously.
You can set a rough approximation though by setting UV & V to 80 DB & B to 90 and WR & G to 25 for 7hrs with 2 hr ramps on each side for a total photo period of 11 hrs.
Are these the average or the peak? If peak how much are you lowering them? All values are adjusted? Duration? If you can post a pic of it that would help tremendously.
You can set a rough approximation though by setting UV & V to 80 DB & B to 90 and WR & G to 25 for 7hrs with 2 hr ramps on each side for a total photo period of 11 hrs.
Splashyfishy
New member
Well that does match advice by my lfs guy.
Funny...I've been dosing Dr Tim's Waste Away and Refresh for weeks!
Also used Macrobacter7 at startup in December. Params have been spot on so I figured no cycle if at all. I originally made the transfer with the same rock and livestock, but added a couple new fish about a month in. I used all new Aragalive sand, did not transfer any of the old sand...but tranferred about 5 gallons of the old water. The old tank was almost 4 yrs old.
I'm inclined to agree with all of you, I just panic when everything is not just perfect...way to anal probably for this hobby...I've been stampeded several times...so I'll chill and follow your advice, THX:wave:
Funny...I've been dosing Dr Tim's Waste Away and Refresh for weeks!
Also used Macrobacter7 at startup in December. Params have been spot on so I figured no cycle if at all. I originally made the transfer with the same rock and livestock, but added a couple new fish about a month in. I used all new Aragalive sand, did not transfer any of the old sand...but tranferred about 5 gallons of the old water. The old tank was almost 4 yrs old.
I'm inclined to agree with all of you, I just panic when everything is not just perfect...way to anal probably for this hobby...I've been stampeded several times...so I'll chill and follow your advice, THX:wave:
TX_Punisher
New member
Just found this thread. Been out of the game for 7 years and a lot has changed! Looking to get back in with a 60" x 30" x 24" mixed reef with SPS.
Would three AI Hydra HD 52's be enough for this tank? Should I run them perpendicular or parallel?
Thanks
Would three AI Hydra HD 52's be enough for this tank? Should I run them perpendicular or parallel?
Thanks
Cammunoz
New member
I definitely think so I have a 90 with 3 x AI hd 26s
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Splashyfishy
New member
Thought I'd report a change today. Monticap is decidedly greener this afternoon and after shedding its entire skin the toadstool leather is putting its polyps out:beer: So I'm doing better as well:celeb1:
You could probably get away with just 2 (placed parallel to tank length) depending on coral placement. However for SPS I'd do 3 placed perpendicular.
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TX_Punisher
New member
Thanks.
Orcus Varuna
New member
I have to disagree with the others as a 30" wide tank is alot of depth to illuminate. I would start with the three hydra 52 HD mounted perpendicular but eventually you will probably add a 4th light or drop in some primes to fill in the gaps. Just my opinion but I am in the camp of the more pucks and points of light the better with LED'S.
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Reeftub
New member
I 2nd this! I have 6- hydra 52 and 4- t5 over a 60" tank 27" deep and only need to run the lights at 45% to achieve 200 to 260 par 8 to 10" below water line with lights 10" off the water line.
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