AI Hydra Settings Thread
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Orcus Varuna
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AI Hydra Settings Thread
Try my AB+ profile, red chromatoprotiens typically fluoresce best when hit with a lot of sub 500nm wavelength light but will be washed out easily when hit with a lot of white light.
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Try my AB+ profile, red chromatoprotiens typically fluoresce best when hit with a lot of sub 500nm wavelength light but will be washed out easily when hit with a lot of white light.
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Are you still running the respiration peak schedule?
PanchoG
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Orcus,
Sorry for the same questions, I have been fighting my iPhone with the myAI app and can't paste the light settings into the app. Can you please show the steps?
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Orcus Varuna
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I don't have time to find it right now, but look back in this thread I have posted the instructions at least 2-3 times.
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Orcus Varuna
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AI Hydra Settings Thread
I'm not been running a no peak version since I added t5ho supplements about 6 months ago . Right now actually I just broke down my tank as I'm moving at the end of the month and wanted to redo the plumbing. Everything is in a LPDE stock tank on my floor haha.
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I'm not been running a no peak version since I added t5ho supplements about 6 months ago . Right now actually I just broke down my tank as I'm moving at the end of the month and wanted to redo the plumbing. Everything is in a LPDE stock tank on my floor haha.
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PanchoG
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Finally got it Orcus, thank you. One question, what is the lights height above water level considered on the profiles for SPS without T5s?
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Orcus Varuna
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No problem I'm glad you were able to find it! If using a tank mount as high as you can get them and 12-16" above the waterline if hanging. If at all possible hang them because the tank mounts only get them about 10" above the water. Those extra few inches really help spread and reduce hotspotting in my experience.
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PanchoG
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Unfortunately this time I am running a RSM-500 so I have the lights fixed at 8" (20cm) so it can be improved but it is compensated by having 3 HD 26. Any reason why your profiles are using 9 hours instead of 12 hours?
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Orcus Varuna
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Ah the max is a nice tank well worth the trade off of not being able to put the lights up a bit higher! The 9 hr schedule is based on the Coral Lab study by wwc and ecotech on optimal growing conditions using led lights.
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PanchoG
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I have a AI hydra 52HD over my IM Lagoon 50. I am having problems at the center of the tank.
Light is mounted 8" above water surface. I have my aquascape max height 8" below surface. Nothing is happy in the center of the tank except GSP on the surface. Anything that goes up on the highest point bleaches or dies(after acclimation period). Is this light just overkill or can it be usable. These settings are from my LFS recommendation. Phosphates are a little high in the document but have come back down to normal levels.
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Light is mounted 8" above water surface. I have my aquascape max height 8" below surface. Nothing is happy in the center of the tank except GSP on the surface. Anything that goes up on the highest point bleaches or dies(after acclimation period). Is this light just overkill or can it be usable. These settings are from my LFS recommendation. Phosphates are a little high in the document but have come back down to normal levels.
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Orcus Varuna
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I have a AI hydra 52HD over my IM Lagoon 50. I am having problems at the center of the tank.
Light is mounted 8" above water surface. I have my aquascape max height 8" below surface. Nothing is happy in the center of the tank except GSP on the surface. Anything that goes up on the highest point bleaches or dies(after acclimation period). Is this light just overkill or can it be usable. These settings are from my LFS recommendation. Phosphates are a little high in the document but have come back down to normal levels.
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Use my sps AB+ settings. Your cool white channels are way to high
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I have been reading about the ab+ settings. Is this something I input manually or is there a way to load it into the light.
Also where do I find your settings just browse this forum?
Thanks a lot for the response! I've been regretting these lights ever since I bought them haha.
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Orcus Varuna
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Your issue is twofold. The OSRAM cool white diodes are notoriously hard on zooxanthella for some reason. This is born out in observation but interestingly not in any par readings I have obtained. Second issue is your lights are too close to the water imo. If at all possible raise them up as high as the tank mount will allow or 12-16" if using the hanging kit. This is the link to the schedule https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgbgngeuJT6zWysLhkg
As far as the upload instructions I don't have time to find them at the moment but they are in this thread multiple times.
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As far as the upload instructions I don't have time to find them at the moment but they are in this thread multiple times.
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Orcus Varuna
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Orcus Varuna
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The problem with running them closer has nothing to do with intensity but light blending since leds are a point source and not a diffuse light source. The optical lensing cause by surface agitation separates this relatively undiffuse light from the leds and focuses them causing the dreaded disco effect and hotspotting. This effect is reduced the more blended the light is when it hits the surface of the water. The only thing that helps this is more distance between the source and the lens. In our use case height above water. You can try lowering the light intensity if you see signs of light stress but ime this has little effect since the par spikes cause by lensing can easily top 900 on normal coral growing settings.
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