Algae Scrubber Basics

My ATS....

My ATS....

I am almost done with building my ATS. Here is what I have so far....

2011-08-01203628.jpg


2011-08-01203705.jpg


2011-08-01202818.jpg


2011-08-01203010.jpg


2011-08-01203645.jpg


Tonight I plan on cutting the opening in the pvc pipe and was wondering what is the optimun size pipe to use....1/2" 3/4"..etc.
 
Spotter, I think the biggest problem is the glass is empty - add a shot of whiskey :)

Doesn't look very wide so you could probably get by with either. I would go 3/4 just because it will let the pump work a little less.
 
I edited this 'cause I am a moron. See redeck's post below and you'll get it.

Nice looking build. I'll be interested to see how it turns out!
 
Last edited:
Well the optimum size to use for a slot running 35 GPH/in is 1/8" wide. You would probably need to be pushing 100 GPH/in or more to supply even flow to a screen with a 1/2" wide slot. Remember that a 1/8" wide slot has a screen that is 1/16" thick inserted into it, so there is only 1/32" on either side of it for the water to pass. Making a slot 1/4" thick would triple the space for water to flow, and more than triple the necessary flow rate to get even, laminar flow. So right there you're at 105 GPH+. Go to 1/2" and you're probably pushing 250 GPH/in.

Nice looking build. I'll be interested to see how it turns out!


I use 1 inch pipe.

Floyd I think he was asking about the size of pipe not the slot.
 
I can definitely get a 3/4" pvc in there...i drilled the hole for a 3/4" bulkhead. I will definitely go with the 1/8" wide cut...i bought plenty of pvc to allow for errors. Any tips on cutting a straight line????? I will be using a dremel to do this.

Since I will feeding this off of my manifold, I will also install a flow meter to make sure I have the flow dialed in just right.
 
Spotter, second look. Are the LED going to get too hot. I think you may need ventilation holes in the top and sides. Something it looks like a closed box.
 
Excellent point....I will add some holes tonight on the side panels behind the heat sinks. I do have some extra computer fans that I mount on the sides to cool it down.
 
FloydRT,
I am in the process of designing an acrylic box to replace my simple bucket style version. I am mostly following your post #15 from 02/16, and have some questions. Would you still recommend using 2 drain pipes at different levels? What distance are the actual T5 tubes from the screen? Are there any modifications / improvements you would make to that design after having used it for some months?
Really appreciate all the knowledge & experience you, srusso, and other people have shared in this thread. It is a very valuable resource.

You're referencing my current build. The main issue I had is that the inside box is not cross-braced along the top edge, and it bowed outwards. It wasn't bad enough to cause the box to get stuck, but if I made it tight to the inside, it definitely would have bound in place (I've seen other designs in which that happened).

The lamps about about 5.5" from center to center, or about 2.5-2.75" from lamp to screen.

The 2 level pipe was my initial idea, in the original system it didn't happen because the vertical height restriction meant I had to make both drains short to get the box out of the frame. Currently, the entire system is at my house and sits on top of the tank (their tank almost blew up). I removed one drain completely and installed a ghetto diffuser and left the other drain it. It works rather well, it's quiet, and when the 3D kicks in the 2nd drain starts to run, so I think the 2 level drain has merit, but I haven't implemented it as I originally intended.

My next design will have only one drain, and then will have an emergency drain at a higher level for the event of blockage of the bottom drain - which has never happened to me, but the tank will go back to the customer's office eventually, and it's going to be totally fail-safe just as a precaution.
 
I have done a simple mod to my scrubber I added 10.5" reflectors.

2011-08-01_17-52-13_359.jpg


2011-08-01_17-52-19_949.jpg


2011-08-01_17-52-27_832.jpg


They fit the screen better just about perfect size... I also noticed that this way they block more of the light from bouncing around in the sump.

I was thinking about added two extra bulbs using a splitter. What do you think?

2011-08-01_17-52-53_783.jpg


I still have to add more flow to the system to get my 35 gpm number. Do you think that cutting the slot open some would help relieve some of the pressure that may be holding back the pump from being able to push more water through?
 
I think your flow restriction comes from the way you feed the screen. Back pressure from the slot is not significant enough with a 1/8" slot, you should be able to push 35 GPH/in no problem.

If you can, describe how you feed it, plumbing sizes, etc. I can't tell from past pics you posted exactly how you supply flow to the piping system, except that water is fed into the vertical section of pipe on one side of the screen stand, and via a small flexible hose.

If you rig up a temporary flow-test by getting a couple more unions and re-create the pipe without the slot, and put a tee in the middle pointing down, you can test the flow rate and monkey with plumbing until you get the flow increased to 35 GPH/in.
 
Length of 1/8" slot.....

Length of 1/8" slot.....

So I was able to come up with a way to use my table saw and cut a 1/8" slot, however it is the entire length of the pipe. I will be capping one end the feed end will be in a bulkhead. Is this ok or will I have problems with proper flow distribution?
 
So I was able to come up with a way to use my table saw and cut a 1/8" slot, however it is the entire length of the pipe. I will be capping one end the feed end will be in a bulkhead. Is this ok or will I have problems with proper flow distribution?

Is your screen going to take up the entire slot? If not then I think you will have problems.
 
The only potential issue with this way of doing it is water creep along the pipe. Install a couple of large gaskets (like bulkhead gaskets) at the ends of the pipe right against the connections at the end so water won't run along the end caps and escape the sump. This isn't so much of an issue if all the connections are completely over the sump, but if the ends of the slot pipe assembly are near the edges of the sump, you might end up with water dribbling outside the sump at some point.

Just a heads-up to everyone, I have re-vamped the summary post and will be posting a 10 post series starting at post 2001. So if you see post # 2000 hit, don't post for about 5 minutes or so, so that I can get them all posted in sequence.

Thanks!!!
 
I split it up so that I could include many many pictures. I added a bunch of other information too, and corrected some pretty bad grammatical and typographical errors too. But I ran out of time updating it, so there will still be a 'Part 2'.
 
Back
Top