Algae Scrubber Basics

the yellow 'rubbery' algae is due to too much light in relation to the amount of nutrients delivered to the screen. This mean either not enough flow, or if flow is right then not enough nutrients (i.e. feed more).The yellowing-green snot-like slimy algae is basically inbetween the green stage and the yellow rubber stage.I read back a bit and saw that you just upped your flow and got green growth. Is this before you moved everything to the 80g from the 40? Where are you at now? Also are you still at 16 on 8 off?

The increased growth was before I moved to the 80g. the flow is about 700 gph and I ended up cutting back on the lights because the leds were burning the screen. I am on 17 and off 7 but I have that split up into two photoperiods. my guess is Im not feeding enough. I have also been running with a filter sock so I will take that off also.

Steve
 
since I already have this nanoglo I may swap out the led's for some of the proper spectrum. I'm not sure what power these are driven at but I guess I could keep modding this little dude till it fits the bill.

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My local Rural King quit carrying my 32 watt cfl. My local Lowes and Wal-Mart didn't have anything over 23 watt. I was wondering where everyone gets there cfls and if online can I get a link please.
Thanks
 
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The highest rated cfl I could find was a 26watt bulb. I want something over 30. Anybody?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sylvania-PA...763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f120fa4cb

http://www.greenelectricalsupply.co...f-driven-120v-led-lightbar-mlsdlb18wwled.aspx
What about these two? I don't know if it is high enough on the wattage but something like this would be awesome because you wouldn't have to change lights.

The lumens are low on both the first looks to be 700 the second 110. MY 23 watt cfl are 1600 lumens. So you wouldn't get much light output out of these.

I finally finished reading this thread Wow alot of info.
 
Any stock LED fixture for home lighting generally will not do. This is because of the difference between LED and fluorescent, the latter being based on mercury and requires phosphors to bring the light into the visible bandwidth, resulting in a broad spectrum, generally. LED fixtures tuned to a specific wavelength or made to reflect a Kelvin rating similar to incandescent, fluorescent, or HID do not look the same when compared side-to-side (talking residential/commercial lighting here). Colors may pop more or less. They have actually had to go back and re-invent color rendering matrices due to LED lighting because the end result is so different.

What you need for algal growth under LEDs is a plant growth specific fixture. There are several different types of these, some are advertised for "budding and flowering" and some for "grow-out" or leaf-growth stages. The latter generally applies for algae because it is primarily red bandwidth, the flowering stage fixtures usually have a lot of blue and white and some UV thrown in there, good for plants, useless for algae.

A fixture with mostly red (630nm or 660nm, the latter more commonly used right now) and maybe a few blues thrown in will look very pink with a little purple tinge. Turn one on in a room and it looks like an alien has turned on a death ray or something. When you turn it off everything looks very green.

I just got one of the e-shine fixtures to compare to my custom LED fixture. Last night I used a PAR meter to compare the e-shine fixture to a Nova Extreme 1127 T5HO 2-lamp fixture. I'll probably post those results on the advanced thread sometime today...very interesting
 
My growth using short intervals has grown a little bit more, On my first cleaning I got just about a cup of algae, I did have a week of no growth due to a timer being turned off, but my last cleaning was about 1 1/4 cup so the short intervals seem to work for me. Ill try to take some pics next week.
 
The no-growth week will generally be followed by a higher growth week. I experienced this a couple times when the scrubber was offline between tank moves.
 
Here's the first week's growth (pics from 12/26 harvest). This is 10 days growth, I have switched to a 10-day cycle vs 7-day previously.

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This was a lot. Probably the most I have ever scraped off, and the screen is 30% smaller width wise.
 
T5's on this still. Don't know when I'll switch this to LED, that would involve a significant re-build, which honestly I want to do and probably will eventually. But I think I'm going to wait until version II comes out to do that.
 
That's the greenest fullest growth I've ever seen. Only guys running an ATS will understand "Nice looking algae, dude".
Do you think a main key is the enclosed box as opposed to open bottom?
 
I don't think there's a main reason. Flow rate, light quality, amount of bio-load, they all have a contribution. Incidentally, the next harvest was a little less and not as green. He also wasn't feeding much. The week off in between let the N and P build up a little (not much N though) and they both dropped way down, then P crept back up to 0.10 so the tank is definitely nitrate limited.
 
The no-growth week will generally be followed by a higher growth week. I experienced this a couple times when the scrubber was offline between tank moves.

Yea, can't argue that. But my growth has definitely taken off since I moved my lights closer and switched to short intervals of light. Can I scientifically state that switching my lighting schedule is the direct cause of the growth? No. But it seems to be working.
 
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