Algae Scrubber Basics

I'm sorry if I missed it, but what is the purpose of the bubble wand in the UAS? Is it to maintain a turbulent environment against the screen? Could the same result be had with a pinwheel pump?
Thanks
 
If anything, by keeping N and P in check it should promote it. I moved everything to a new tank in December, and now you can hardly see through the back glass, I have to chip some of it away for a power head and it was easily 1mm thick.
 
I have been reading this thread for a week now amd feel up to speed on most of it. I recently tore down my 75 gal FOWLR,( only system I have any experience in), to build a foam rock wall on three sides. When I reset the tank I had planned to incorperate a 29 gal display fuge with macros and turtle grass for hopefully breading some cardinals. The main DT will be a mixed reef starting with zoas and star polyps and working my way to LPS and maybe a SPS if I am successful. This brings me to my questions.

1: I have no experience with mixed reefs, so what is a good guesstimation of feeding requirements I could base my scrubber sizing on?

2: How much of an increase would having the ATS above the display (and letting gravity return the scrubbed water) have on my pod population? eg. noticeable, realy noticeable, not noticeable?

3: Will running an ATS destroy my chances of maintaining turtle grass in the display fuge?

Thanks to all you pros in advance.
Ed

1) hard to say... You'll have to give a live stock list.

2) in theory it should increase the pods found in the tank.

3) it can be done, just more of a balancing act.
 
All the LED drivers get hot - as far as I know - but some are worse that others. Take a look at the Meanwells at rapidled.com. Not cheap, but not too hot either. And they are easily mounted at a distance from the LED. I'VE got my ATS LED in my wet stand over my sump, but the driver is mounted in a separate electronics shelf. Something to consider...

Yeah, it wasn't in the original design to "cool" this driver also... It was more of just a "good" place to put it while I was building it. Version two should have remote drivers. Technically it's better if I am keeping the driver cool also... Right?
 
Hello all! I have a small HOB filter running on my nano (roughly 20 gallons) that literally has no filtration media in it. I notice that the plastic lip it uses to cascade the water back down into the tank (2"x2") has continually produced a decent amount of nice green algae. I harvest it every now and then but it's nothing as aggressive as a functioning ATS. It did get me thinking though that maybe I could make a custom lip that goes wider (and has turrets of sort that force the water to fan out and also holds the canvas in place via well placed holes) and incorporates some roughed up mesh. Considering that the start of the water's ascend is 1.5" directly below a 55w 10k/actinic PC light and would hit the water level at 3" below the light, do you think this would work? I feed the equivalent of about 2 pinches of flakes a day so I wouldn't need many square inches. The water flow on the filter isn't that much though. It only has a 5w pump.

It just seems that if the algae grew there on a completely smooth surface that I should bi-pass something external and promote the growth there with more surface area and something for the algae to actually grab on to. Considering that I live in Seoul (안녕하세요!) I'm very limited on tools, available materials, and space. They don't have a Home Depot or anything that I can run down to so I need a very simple design for an ATS. So, has anyone every seen something like this done? Any advice? My big concern would be the flow rate. I would post some pics so you knew what I am dealing with but that will have to wait until tomorrow. The lights are off and my Black Percula is snuggled into his Leather. Thanks!

-Cody
 
yes I have seen that done before, not on this site but on another. You can make a tray that extends out along the top of the water then secure a roughed up screen to it and it will grow algae better. It won't be ideal, and the spectrum you have over it is not ideal, but if that's all you have to deal with you could rig something up and it would probably work for the amount you are feeding.
 
Also, the only mesh that I have been able to find is black. I'm not quite sure where else to look considering that I went to one of the best art/craft supply stores in Korea. Just another factor in the equation to consider. Also, what would you recommend to rough up the canvas with considering that I don't have any hole cutting bits lying around and don't want to pay for one here. I was thinking that it would take more work but a steak knife shouldn't deliver too different of results.

-Cody
 
Yeah the spectrum of the lights if definitely not ideal. I was thinking about adding a little clip on 11w PC fixture I have in the space between the main lights and the filter to add more punch there. I don't want a lot of light pollution while I'm trying to sleep considering that my bedroom is also my living room so I want to try the increased exposure for a shorter amount of time method. Hopefully I can get a lower color temperature 11w bulb this weekend.

-Cody
 
My brother did the same for a few months, it will filter but wont be able to run as a sole filtration. Use LEDs over CFL it will save space and work better.

How could this stuff be hard to find in Korea?! All the stuff we get here says its made in Korea! Lol just kidding!!
 
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Another UAS design

Post2.jpg
 
I have been reading this thread for a week now amd feel up to speed on most of it. I recently tore down my 75 gal FOWLR,( only system I have any experience in), to build a foam rock wall on three sides. When I reset the tank I had planned to incorperate a 29 gal display fuge with macros and turtle grass for hopefully breading some cardinals. The main DT will be a mixed reef starting with zoas and star polyps and working my way to LPS and maybe a SPS if I am successful. This brings me to my questions.

1: I have no experience with mixed reefs, so what is a good guesstimation of feeding requirements I could base my scrubber sizing on?

2: How much of an increase would having the ATS above the display (and letting gravity return the scrubbed water) have on my pod population? eg. noticeable, realy noticeable, not noticeable?

3: Will running an ATS destroy my chances of maintaining turtle grass in the display fuge?

Thanks to all you pros in advance.
Ed

Hey Ed thought I would add my 2 cent as we have a like system.
both have a 75 with hopes of attacked macro display. mine being a 40br that is to the side of the system & is a QT tank right now. the plan is to drill an plumb it to the DT. anyway this is what i am doing...

I am adding a LED ATS b/c I went on vacation and the tank was over feed as I have GHA every were now. so I am going to run the ATS until all GHA is gone and i get the 40br plumb in, then slowly take ATS off line and let the macro do it... in theory anyway sounds right to me.

I went with a 5x5" #7 mesh square that = 25 inches about 2 cubes a day. I think that will be right for a 75 mixed reef.
cheers
Deva
 

I think that I am going to attempt something like is. It seems to use the same screen size guidelines as the waterfall. I feed about 0.5 cube a day but I am probably going to use a screen in the 20-25 sq inch range given the uncertainties surrounding this new design. I will probably anchor the box using two small magfloats since I can't find any other magnets and I don't want to use suction cups. I am thinking about using a tetra whisper air pump rated for 40-60 gallons that will pump air through a anchor bubbler. Is there any clear guidelines on what air pump might be optimal for this application? It seems folks are using cheap pumps but would a bigger better pump be better?
 
ok so now for my build,
what I am going to use for heat sinks 4x4" light switch covers:
IMG_0013.jpg

LED are on using thermal pads:
IMG_0014.jpg

Testing before I start wiring them up:
IMG_0015.jpg


almost wired up:
IMG_0017.jpg

IMG_0018.jpg


got these at the restore and the holes fit perfect. so that is that I am going to hang them by.
IMG_0019.jpg
 
and a mock up of were the screen is going to hang;
IMG_0020.jpg


it is about 1.5 inch from the water level of the fuge. will this be noisy? will the lights be to close to the water level? I plan on making a splash guard to cover the LEd's
anyone see any problems before I continue?
 
ok did the water flow test , by talking out the skimmer and removing a pice of PVC:
IMG_0021.jpg

but now am a bit confused about some math and just wanna double check...
I took an average of 9 seconds to fell 1 gal. 3600/9= 400 GPH. I think that is right but I like to make sure.
I am using 1.5" drain line.
 
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