Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
srusso
Active member
Also I have been saying for a long time that I would be getting an ORP probe. Well I have finally gotten one over a month ago, so it's been running for long enough to give an accurate reading of the tank.
I believe these are the first ORP readings ever posted and charted over a 24 hour time for a tank that has an algae scrubber as its only filtration.
If you notice the span or swing of a typical day for ORP in my scrubber only system is very small. PH chart posted for reference, this deminrates the amazing stability of an algae scrubber tank.
It should be noted that my scrubber lighting is NOT on a reverse lighting cycle with the display, always hated seeing the lights on in the stand at night so I never have run the system this way.
I believe these are the first ORP readings ever posted and charted over a 24 hour time for a tank that has an algae scrubber as its only filtration.
If you notice the span or swing of a typical day for ORP in my scrubber only system is very small. PH chart posted for reference, this deminrates the amazing stability of an algae scrubber tank.
It should be noted that my scrubber lighting is NOT on a reverse lighting cycle with the display, always hated seeing the lights on in the stand at night so I never have run the system this way.
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
That is quite a large Ph swing and 8.5+ is out of my comfort zone. Is Ph probe calibrated?
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srusso
Active member
Hasn't been calibrated in over a year... I wonder if its drifting.... No sign of stress or issue with fish or coral
Last edited:
Waggs
New member
Over a year? My Milwaukee says it should be re-calibrated at least once a month. That may be overkill but that's what my manual recommends.
srusso
Active member
Once a month?! lol... i should get on that...
Dustin1300
Reefaholic
I do every 60 days. Would be curious of reading after calibration.
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srusso
Active member
I am going to read how to do it, I have all the stuff to do it... I hope to do it tomorrow night, after work... if I don't get home too late.
Devaji108
New member
wow great idea I was just thinking of things I could use as a heat sink. was going to use C channel but can't get it locally. I really like this idea. how many hours do you run your LEd's?
what is that driver you are using?
I know it's only been a day but do you still like it?
is there any vent holes?
any other feel back you wanna give us about it?
thanks
Saadatski
New member
Just a quick question. My cyano problem is coming back, even though the ATS did a lot to die it down, there are still minor cases with it in my tank. I want to go buy a GFO reactor for a while to control my phosphates. After it is under control, I will change it out for carbon once the ATS truly kicks in
srusso
Active member
I don't like where I put the driver, which is putting out more heat then the LEDs. But its still not warm enough to make any issues. The metal around the LEDs isn't warm at all... In the end the more heat I move the better so I guess if I cool the driver with this "heat sink" also that's a good thing?! I would have to say if the driver was not being cooled I don't think it would be warm at all, like not even a little.
Anyone have info on the heat coming from drivers?
Devaji108
New member
one other question I have is do you thing it's helping direct or hindering the light spread?
meaning we are not using lens so the sides of the box could hinder or funnel the spread.
I am thinking it not a big deal at all b/c out ATS pad so so small. but prob. would not work on say a nano build so something like that...
thoughts?
oh and what did you use to attach your splash guard?
meaning we are not using lens so the sides of the box could hinder or funnel the spread.
I am thinking it not a big deal at all b/c out ATS pad so so small. but prob. would not work on say a nano build so something like that...
thoughts?
oh and what did you use to attach your splash guard?
All the LED drivers get hot - as far as I know - but some are worse that others. Take a look at the Meanwells at rapidled.com. Not cheap, but not too hot either. And they are easily mounted at a distance from the LED. I'VE got my ATS LED in my wet stand over my sump, but the driver is mounted in a separate electronics shelf. Something to consider...
neptunestender
New member
I have been reading this thread for a week now amd feel up to speed on most of it. I recently tore down my 75 gal FOWLR,( only system I have any experience in), to build a foam rock wall on three sides. When I reset the tank I had planned to incorperate a 29 gal display fuge with macros and turtle grass for hopefully breading some cardinals. The main DT will be a mixed reef starting with zoas and star polyps and working my way to LPS and maybe a SPS if I am successful. This brings me to my questions.
1: I have no experience with mixed reefs, so what is a good guesstimation of feeding requirements I could base my scrubber sizing on?
2: How much of an increase would having the ATS above the display (and letting gravity return the scrubbed water) have on my pod population? eg. noticeable, realy noticeable, not noticeable?
3: Will running an ATS destroy my chances of maintaining turtle grass in the display fuge?
Thanks to all you pros in advance.
Ed
1: I have no experience with mixed reefs, so what is a good guesstimation of feeding requirements I could base my scrubber sizing on?
2: How much of an increase would having the ATS above the display (and letting gravity return the scrubbed water) have on my pod population? eg. noticeable, realy noticeable, not noticeable?
3: Will running an ATS destroy my chances of maintaining turtle grass in the display fuge?
Thanks to all you pros in advance.
Ed
neptunestender
New member
I have been reading this thread for a week now amd feel up to speed on most of it. I recently tore down my 75 gal FOWLR,( only system I have any experience in), to build a foam rock wall on three sides. When I reset the tank I had planned to incorperate a 29 gal display fuge with macros and turtle grass for hopefully breading some cardinals. The main DT will be a mixed reef starting with zoas and star polyps and working my way to LPS and maybe a SPS if I am successful. This brings me to my questions.
1: I have no experience with mixed reefs, so what is a good guesstimation of feeding requirements I could base my scrubber sizing on?
2: How much of an increase would having the ATS above the display (and letting gravity return the scrubbed water) have on my pod population? eg. noticeable, realy noticeable, not noticeable?
3: Will running an ATS destroy my chances of maintaining turtle grass in the display fuge?
Thanks to all you pros in advance.
Ed
1: I have no experience with mixed reefs, so what is a good guesstimation of feeding requirements I could base my scrubber sizing on?
2: How much of an increase would having the ATS above the display (and letting gravity return the scrubbed water) have on my pod population? eg. noticeable, realy noticeable, not noticeable?
3: Will running an ATS destroy my chances of maintaining turtle grass in the display fuge?
Thanks to all you pros in advance.
Ed
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