Algae Scrubber Basics

Besides how many times have you seen an entire tank covered in hair algae and the poster can't figure out why his phosphates are zero. If the guidelines held true there the algae would cover what one maybe two rocks then? If the hair algae continues to grow why wouldn't a bigger screen grow til there was no phosphate?
 
Floyd, can you lend some advice? I just got 2 12w LED grow lights (spot lights) you had recommended to another member. I started to hook them up but I'm confused on how close to make them. Real close and the colors dont blend, too far and it looks weak. Your recommendation would be greatly appreciated!
 
I never understood what defines a scrubber as perhaps oversized. Says SM? What science backs that spec up? Not trying to ne a pain, just questioning. In my experience scrubbers are self regulating. that is, they can't over scrub. At the same time, a larger scrubber is better able to handle a spike in nitrates or phosphates that a smaller scrubber. Am I missing something important here?

I'm actually with you here. Yes, SM, and based on anecdotal evidence, which however 1) is sometimes all we have and 2) is usually a pretty good rule of thumb.

Interesting that you bring up the phosphate issue. Are you saying that the smaller screen kept your N down, but not P, and the larger screen kept both down? I have had the opposite effect. The larger screen could not keep P below 0.09 and the smaller one now keeps it below 0.04.

Larger screens are not necessarily better, the reasoning is that green is better filtration, and smaller screens force the algae to grow in a smaller area, larger screens spread out the growth and it gets starved of nutrients and turns yellow. There's more to it but that's mainly it. Also basing the screen size on feeding makes a lot of sense, food in = waste out (on average)

Therefore a screen that is, I would guess, 1.5x larger than the feeding based guideline is probably fine, but any more than say 2x the feeding guideline and it will probably tend to grow thinner. Pulling those figures out of my behind but that's sort of what I see happening.

Light intensity, flow, and other factors can affect your system as well, as can many other factors that are specific to your system, so what may work great for one person may not work at all for another. I can tell you this from personal experience, I have people telling me one particular scrubber grows ganbusters immediately while the exact same scrubber grows nothing for someone else.

I agree totally with your post. I tried the new guidelines and it could not keep up with phosphates in the tank. My waterfall screen is 14x17" lit on both sides lit by 40 watt spiral bulbs, one one each side. I get a gallon of algae every 5 days from it. There has been many post where it is said that the new guidelines don't remove all phosphates.

The phosphate issue is not restricted to scrubbers and is, as far as I can tell, related to the size of your screen, under or over sized, or sized correctly. I brought it up because SM is claiming it's P soaked into rocks coming out and transitioning in and out of various states and that's why it's not getting pulled down. Other non-scrubber filtration systems, even probiotic systems, in certain conditions, have the exact same issue.

So the fact that you are getting P=0 is great, are you testing on a Hanna meter or a liquid kit? It may be that your system has the right balance of input (food) and algae strains that keep everything in check. There's a lot of theories on what is going on here. It's definitely an interesting discussion if you know where to follow it.

Besides how many times have you seen an entire tank covered in hair algae and the poster can't figure out why his phosphates are zero. If the guidelines held true there the algae would cover what one maybe two rocks then? If the hair algae continues to grow why wouldn't a bigger screen grow til there was no phosphate?

Algae grows in areas of high flow, because in these areas the O2 produced is removed quickly before it grows to toxic levels and inhibits photosynthesis, and the nutrients are delivered efficiently, both of these via breaking through to the boundary layer where the exchange occurs. If you had 2 identical tanks, one with a scrubber and the other with just algae growing in the tank, I would be willing to bet the harvest would be about the same.

As for the bigger screen/P issue, is has nothing to do really with screen size as it does the fact that if there is a limitation of one or more elements needed for growth, then uptake/growth slows to match the availability of that nutrient, unless a strain of algae is present that can more efficiently grow at the given ratios supplied to it. Meaning that if you have dominant algae that uptakes N and P (and perhaps K also now) and one particular ratio, and the ratio of available nutrients does not match this, uptake stops when one is depleted or perhaps even lowered below a certain threshold. So increasing the screen size theoretically cannot fix this issue.

Floyd, can you lend some advice? I just got 2 12w LED grow lights (spot lights) you had recommended to another member. I started to hook them up but I'm confused on how close to make them. Real close and the colors dont blend, too far and it looks weak. Your recommendation would be greatly appreciated!

You should be able to remove the cover on the fixture and remove the optics, then replace the cover and put the lamp a lot closer. you may be able to just remove the blue optics and let those spread more, and leave the red optics in place - I don't know, I haven't seen one before, but I was told that is what you can do (remove optics)

FYI, that LED floodlight (if it's the one I'm thinking of) is really only good for about a 5x5 screen, and not many have used it.
 
Here is a draft of the seventh draft of the document I promised. I don't know that I will ever get around to completing it, so I'd rather share it now, as it is...
I cut a lot of fat, focused on my audience.
I don't believe I am some great writer, I know I am not...
I am not done testing yet but, it seems to be working right now.

Want to get this groups ideas on this and to get others testing.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B-otQ3chcfnrS1hxZHRBdFgzaFE

Thank you for taking the time to read it.

I'd like to try this & document results.
What are you using to test for K?
What levels of K have you initially measured in your tank?
Have you been dosing / what?
What do you feel is your target level of K?
I assume it is too early to report trending N &P levels in relation to K adjustments?
 
Hello all. I am new to the algae scrubbing concept. I just discovered this three weeks ago and have been doing alot of research. And even though i would like to do more research before i take this project on, there is simply no more time for me. I have been battling a very significant algae bloom over the last two months and have up until a week ago been holding my own against it. However in the recent week i have been losing by a very large margin. It has grown out of control and is out competing my blue macro algae and killing it. My two sps, zoas, softies, and RBTA are beginning to suffer as well. I cant let this go on any longer for fear i will begin losing my precious corals and god forbid my nem:-(. So to the point. I am going tomorrow to buy some cross stitch, a cfl bulb and fixture. I have everything else i need i believe. I woudl like to run this by you guys first before i do it to see what you think. Later on down the road i will be building a legit algae scrubber but for now i need a quick solution or even a partial solution to try and save what i can until i can put the time into a better scrubber. I am planning to glue the cross stitch to the inside of an empty rectangle tv dinner container that is about two inches deep. I will run a suction cup directly through the top and bottom of the container and mount it to the top right corner in the very back of my tank. i will use an ice pick to punch about 40 holes in the outter edges of the dinner container for flow to get through. I have a 5" long airstone that i will run across the bottom of the dinner container at the base of the cross stitch so it can bubble directly up into and around the cross stitch. I will then clamp the cfl fixture to the top of the tank. It has a flexible neck that i can adjust the bulb where i want it to be. I will be aiming it directly centered on the cross stitch at about 4.5" from the tank glass. this will be my temp set up to help alleviate the current algae problem until i can finish my research and build a turf scrubber. I believe what i am building is called an upflow scrubber. What do you guys think?? will it be somewhat sufficient for about a month or two until i can build a better one? Also i am thinking i may need another tv dinner type container to mount on the outside of the tank that i could cut a hole in, large enough for the head of the light fixture to fit through. I feel like this would give me a better concentration of the light on the screen and it will keep it from hitting the rest of the aquarium glass so i can limit growth outside of the cross stitch. I dont have a sump set up yet so i have no choice but to use the display tank for now. i was also thinking about doing all of this inside a very large hob filter that i have gutted completely....do you think this design could work inside the filter so i dont have to put this directly into the tank. I run Two Large hob filters, one hob protein skimmer, and several maxijet circulation pumps. i dont mind building this inside the aquarium but if i could mount the cross stitch to a small peice of pvc pipe with holes punched in it, i figure i could run the bubbler in the pvc and put it in the filter. then shine the light straight down into the filter and acheive the same results??? i am so sorry for rambling but i wanted to give the most vivid and detailed description i could for you guys. I will really really appreciate any and all advice and comments. Thank you so much in advance....Greg
 
Greg, your idea sounds OK, but just to verify, is the tank glass or acrylic?

With the UAS you can probably get the light closer.

How big is the screen? If it's small, say 6x6 or less, you can use a CFL floodlight instead of a bid dome reflector.

When you say "glue" the plastic canvas, what "glue" are you planning on using? Silicone?
 
Floyd....the tank is glass. If I put the screen inside the aquarium i will be using a 6x6 piece. If you think it is possible to do the in filter design it will have to be 4x6. I have black aquarium silicone that i was planning to glue the screen in with, however i do have gel super glue at home if you think that would work better? Do you think i could achieve the same results by doing the in filter design? If i did that i wouldnt need a reflector because i could use the flood light and it would shine from the top, down onto both sides of the screen. This is my preferred set up for the scrubber for obvious asthetic reasons but if you dont think it is a reasonable idea then i will stick with the in tank idea. Thanks
 
I'd like to try this & document results.
What are you using to test for K?
What levels of K have you initially measured in your tank?
Have you been dosing / what?
What do you feel is your target level of K?
I assume it is too early to report trending N &P levels in relation to K adjustments?

Thats great, thanks for helping flesh out this new theory.

I have been given the advice from a reliable source that Elos makes the best Potassium test kit. However I was unable to get any test kits at the moment.

I dosed using a brightwell product. About 50ml a day.

I blind dosed the tank, watching the reactions closely. I DON'T advise anyone to dose blindly as I do. Without completely knowing all the risks and an understanding of how to notice slight changes in livestock behavior or reactions, if done incorrectly it can have harmful effects on your tank.

Natural Sea water has a potassium concatenation of 390-410ppm

Getting a test kit as soon as my wallet will let me... ;-)

Again thanks for helping test my theory. In my own tests I have noticed a drop in phosphates as I predicted, from 0.14 down to 0.01 on a Hana checker. The only other tester to post findings so far has reported that it hasn't help fix the phosphate issues. So it's one and one right now.

As others test, I believe we will see this fixing rising phosphates for some and others may actually have a different or multiple limitations.
 
Greg, direct light is best. Trying to take a light from above and re-direct the light 90 degrees without a very well thought out reflector is not going to work very well. If you want to do the HOB idea, I would instead use 2 or 3 660nm deep red LEDs.
 
ok then ill stick with in tank set up for now. should I put some sort of reflector behind the screen so the light reflects through it and back onto other sidr? and if so where can I get one and what material wouldd it be made of


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android
 
also I think I understand the reason for the air stone but could you tell me exactly why its necessary? I just wanna know from someone who seems to know a lot on the subject if what I've understood from my research is correct


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android
 
also I think I understand the reason for the air stone but could you tell me exactly why its necessary? I just wanna know from someone who seems to know a lot on the subject if what I've understood from my research is correct


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android

It provides the water movement across the screen, so the algae is exposed to more nutrients.
 
ok cool. one last question and for my personal knowledge this is the most important for me...what will happen if the screen isn't cleaned for say a month? would the algae spread ? and if yes why?


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android
 
If its not cleaned, the roots are not exposed to enough light and the algae will die off and chunks will be released. The other issue is when starting a new screen, its better to clean every 7 days because this, for reasons unknown to me but documented by many users, causes a faster production of green hair algae which is much more effecient at removing nutrients than the other varieties. I started a UAS about 5 weeks ago and clean it once per week (about to do it again now actually) and from week 3-4 started seeing the green hair.
 
ok cool. one last question and for my personal knowledge this is the most important for me...what will happen if the screen isn't cleaned for say a month? would the algae spread ? and if yes why?


Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android

The algae will start to die off, releasing its nutrients back into the water. Why is it the most important thing? That's an issue if you can't clean the for over a month. That is normally 4 cleanings, if you can't commit to regular maintenance to the scrubber then it is not going to do much for you and you should probably forget it...
 
Back
Top