Algae Scrubber Basics

[Floyd R Turbo]

FWIW, I have been running a 4x6 screen using 6 DRs @700mA and 2 RBs (450ish) at 350mA (wired in parallel) on each side. I recently replaced the RBs with hyper-violets, and also wired these in parallel (so they are getting 350mA each). Under the RBs, I had normally been running a 12 day growth cycle - under the HVs, it's 9 or less.

 

[hkgar]

What would you think of this light. 90 pcs 650nmRed + 36 pcs 450nmBlue and 15watts for a 9*6 screen and use one light on each side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15W-E27-LED...ffType=OrderSubTotalOffer&_trksid=p5731.m3795

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Algae Scrubber Basics

No, don't use that fixture. Low power LEDs are really no good for scrubbers. Not enough "punch". That goes for any fixture. You want minimum 1W LEDs.

 

[SantaMonica]

I don't know why I think growing algae is less aggressive on stripping nutrition than bacteria

It is, because algae uses the same mechanism (photosynthesis) that the coral does. So as nutrients become very low, the scrubber slows down.

 

[hkgar]

No, don't use that fixture. Low power LEDs are really no good for scrubbers. Not enough "punch". That goes for any fixture. You want minimum 1W LEDs.

How about a light with these components. Seems to be 1 watt per led if I read it right.



Led ratio: Red (660 nanometers 3 peices; 630 nanometers 6 peices): Blue(460 nanometers 3 peices)
Power: 12W
Frequency: 50/60 Hz
Lifespan: Above 50,000 hours
Socket type: E27
Dimensions: 4.84 x 5.44 inches
Gross weight: 0.37 kilograms / 13 ounces

Thanks for the help. Don't want to get involved with a DIY led project, so looking for a ready to go.

I am currently using the bulb I refereed to with this link

http://www.lowes.com/pd_209679-4392...l=1&currentURL=?Ntt=led+light+bulb&facetInfo=

but warm whites don't seem to be recommended

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Let's back up a bit. Your screen is 9x6 = 54 sq in. If you're lighting both sides, that's a 4.5 cube/day scrubber.

For a pre-made light fixture, you need a minimum of 0.25W per sq in on each side, preferably 0.5W/sq in. So that's between 13 and 27 watt per side, and that's the wattage that the fixture draws at the wall.

A 12W fixture per side will get you going, but might not be enough if you are actually feeding 4 cubes/day. If you are feeding less, then you're probably OK with that.

I would try to find a fixture with only 660s, or primarily 660s with only a few others

 

[rt67ghy]

I've had an ATF for eight months now and have been getting a lot of cyano growing on it as well as some green algae. The flow was only 13 gallons per hour per inch. Was the flow the problem? I'm using 2 23W CFL bulbs and after harvesting today I upgraded the flow to about 31 gallons.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

That's pretty low flow, the higher flow should deter cyano from growing. Are you sure that's what it was though?

When you have too little flow and a lot of light (in comparison to the amount of flow, that is) you can end up with a lot of diatom growth, which is kind of dark, slimy, and smelly, and disintegrates as soon as you disturb it.

 

[SantaMonica]

Cyano is usually from too-little light.

That Lowes light is not one that you want. You want plant-growing LED lights.

 

[kegogut]

Cyano is usually from too-little light.

That Lowes light is not one that you want. You want plant-growing LED lights.

You dont need LEDs to have a successful ATS. The 23w CFLs are fine.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

He was reply to 2 separate posts, in particular, these. Which I had already replied to. I'm pretty sure that I'm on his 'ignore' list though

I am currently using the bulb I refereed to with this link

http://www.lowes.com/pd_209679-4392...l=1&currentURL=?Ntt=led+light+bulb&facetInfo=

but warm whites don't seem to be recommended

I've had an ATF for eight months now and have been getting a lot of cyano growing on it as well as some green algae. The flow was only 13 gallons per hour per inch. Was the flow the problem? I'm using 2 23W CFL bulbs and after harvesting today I upgraded the flow to about 31 gallons.

 

[rt67ghy]

That's pretty low flow, the higher flow should deter cyano from growing. Are you sure that's what it was though?

When you have too little flow and a lot of light (in comparison to the amount of flow, that is) you can end up with a lot of diatom growth, which is kind of dark, slimy, and smelly, and disintegrates as soon as you disturb it.

Thanks for the response. Yes the flow was that low but I have now increased it to at least 35 gallons per inch. I got rid of all the cyano during my last harvest and waiting eagerly to see improvements.

Sorry my response is late. I just read the post now.

 

[thejuggernaut]

I saw Floyd make a reference to using violet instead or RBs. Have others used them, what have been people's experiences so far?

 

[wildman926]

Since deploying my ATS's a year ago, I have not experienced any cyano since.

 

[Swope2bc]

Wow, this thread is massive. I set out to read the entire thing but have since thought twice.. I made it about 200 posts in and the over 6600 posts proved a daunting task. Would it be considered offensive to jump in and ask a few simple questions?? If not, then I will ask now. If you prefer I read I could do that too but it's a ton of info!!!

The last thread I tried to be faithful from the start was on RDSB and I learned several days into the read that ATS provide the same benefit if not more and are much more efficient at providing it... My questions are these:

1. When running an ATS what is the advisable sump setup? Everything else just seems like a waste after what I've read. Have we actually evolved passed the DSB refugium entirely? What about a protean skimmer?

2. I believe I have a grasp on the basics of the original designs but what seems to be the newest and best? I plan to enclose mine in an acrylic box and bud DIY LED lights for it...

My tank will be, once I'm done learning and planning, a 40b lit with 300W Chinese LED modded to run on my apex, a 40b sump for added volume and whatever else ends up making sense... I am also planning ATO and AWC systems...

 

[Maximus]

I just wanted to update my L2 ATS. Here are a couple pics of it with only 10 days of growth. Most of these days are with no fish as I just re introduced my fish a couple days ago after 9 weeks of leaving the tank fallow due to ich. I can't imagine how much algae I will grow with the fish in the tank and all the feedings! Can you tell I am excited? Best of all, my tank is 95% hair algae free as well! ATS really work!!



The other side:

 

[SantaMonica]

Mulit-year threads are indeed fun; I used to only like to read threads over 40 pages. The Durso thread was great. Then I got hooked on biology studies. And now I also get to read huge threads on 3D printing.

1a: The main purpose for a sump was and still is a place to put your stuff. Trying to put lots of stuff in the display can be hard (although reef ponds are a great reason to do it). However if you already have a sump, you can do a fuge there too. But combining a macro fuge with a scrubber is not good; choose one.

1b: Skimmers are a separate discussion; they don't affect scrubbers, and vice versa.

2a: The original waterfall designs that I posted here in 2008 still work well. If you have the space above the waterline, and the ability to DIY, they do work. The newer designs like the ones I posted in 2011 all use upflowing bubbles. They go below the waterline, and thus make many things simpler.

2b: One big difference between then and now, is LEDs. They make almost all the current designs possible, easier, cheaper, safer, and more fun to look at.

3: You may not need the water changing.

 

[Maximus]

I am almost tempted to turn off my skimmer and let the ATS do all the filtering. I think I will wean my tank off the skimmer slowly and lower the water level in the skimmer so it will skim extremely dry. Do you think this would increase the algae in the ATS if less skimmate is pulled out?

 

[NewJack]

question for Santa monica. I have one of your original scrubbers 100, Is there a LED retrofit for that design. I would love to swap out the t5's for LED's

 

[Swope2bc]

Mulit-year threads are indeed fun; I used to only like to read threads over 40 pages. The Durso thread was great. Then I got hooked on biology studies. And now I also get to read huge threads on 3D printing.

1a: The main purpose for a sump was and still is a place to put your stuff. Trying to put lots of stuff in the display can be hard (although reef ponds are a great reason to do it). However if you already have a sump, you can do a fuge there too. But combining a macro fuge with a scrubber is not good; choose one.

1b: Skimmers are a separate discussion; they don't affect scrubbers, and vice versa.

2a: The original waterfall designs that I posted here in 2008 still work well. If you have the space above the waterline, and the ability to DIY, they do work. The newer designs like the ones I posted in 2011 all use upflowing bubbles. They go below the waterline, and thus make many things simpler.

2b: One big difference between then and now, is LEDs. They make almost all the current designs possible, easier, cheaper, safer, and more fun to look at.

3: You may not need the water changing.

Thanks for the reply SM, I definitely like the idea of the scrubber, which model do you believe to be more effective? I have plenty of space above my sump, but also I will have a very large sump so have space there too. I am actually looking forward to the build, it will help to hone my acrylic working skills a bit. I would like to have a fuge for additional growth of live foods but would have no need of other algae growth, is this still something people do? Or does enough life grow in the scrubber to feed a tank? Does the scrubber completely remove the need for a RDSB? Sorry for all of the questions, I just love the simplicity of this idea. Could you recommend me with some reading that can help me decide whether or not to have a skimmer with the ATS?

Thanks for your help! I'm still a couple months from being setup but I'll try to post updates when I get to building.