Algae Scrubber Basics

[Floyd R Turbo]

There have been a few articles written about the accuracy of hobby-grade test kits that basically suggest that at very low levels, they aren't very accurate. meaning, even if your kit reads zero, it's not zero. There are dynamic reactions happening all the time in your tank so while something may not show up on a test kit, it still could be "bio-available". I think I got that right but I could be off somewhere, but in general that's the idea.

But the ammonia explanation with the relation to the tank maturity and periphyton sounds like a reasonable explanation. There are a lot of things going on during the first year of a tank setup we can't test for without sophisticated lab equipment.

Here's my favorite article of all time, go to #15

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/

 

[SantaMonica]

those it mean that if I test amonia, I should get a reading in my 470g?

Probably not, the ammonia is being consumed by the algae too quick.

would it help to reduce the algae that I am getting in glass in my 470g if I increase the hours of operation in my ATS?

Probably. The more (and faster) scrubber growth you can get, will help. This is where a strong fast growing scrubber is important. Slow growing chaeto is not much help.

I was not increasing hours in ATS because I wanted N and P to increase, but I am not seing any increase in N and P after 2 months and I am this algae in glass of DT is growing every 3 days, so I might as well increase hours of led in ATS and take it to its maximum filtration capacity? would it help?

To get "more N and P" you should always just feed more. Might be a good time to try liquid coral food.

 

[zachtos]

Is there some information on spray bars here somewhere? I heard that if you drill a series of holes instead of a slot, that it can minimize splash. I am in process of planning the LED fixture protection and it would be nice to not need dual splash guards.

 

[SantaMonica]

Many have done that; the holes can be on the side, top or bottom of the pipe. But the holes clog, and you have to be able to get inside the pipe to push the growth out.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

That's a good point about the holes,
Or, maybe 1-2 x a year, you can use a small rod, plastic, stainless paper clip, etc.,
and individually clean out the holes.
I don't think it will be much of an issue.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Holes won't clog with algae growth if you block the light, but that's tougher to do with holes. Gunk will form in there though no matter what

 

[SFish]

Hey Floyd

I'm in the planning stage of making a 3D box. My screen is going to be 5x5". I'm looking at the LED flood lights. I want to go with one on each side. Would the 10W be strong enough?

Thanks

 

[SantaMonica]

Is a good start for that small screen.

 

[SFish]

So I was thinking to go with a 6x6 box with 3/4" PVC then I could go 1" on the drain. Does this seem ok? About how wide should I be making the box 3"? Also how thick a acrylic should I use?

Thanks

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

1/4" acrylic is more than thick enough

As for box width, I prefer to keep it pretty tight, 2" to 2.25", that promotes 3D growth pretty well, but when it comes down to it, you need to be able to get your hand in there to clean it so keep that in mind

 

[SFish]

1/4" acrylic is more than thick enough

As for box width, I prefer to keep it pretty tight, 2" to 2.25", that promotes 3D growth pretty well, but when it comes down to it, you need to be able to get your hand in there to clean it so keep that in mind

Thanks

Is that LED good enough?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Yeah I would think it should do the trick. You will have to play with the distance, multichips can cause a hotspot in the middle if it's too close, but even if you get that should fill in over time

 

[SFish]

Thanks

 

[SFish]

So I'm thinking of just setting the ATS on top of egg crate along with the flood lights which would sit on top of the sump. Will this be ok? Also I'm wondering with a box only 2" wide if I should some how brace or attach it to the egg crate to prevent it from tipping over. Thoughts or ideas.

Thanks again

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I would make it with a wider base, maybe a few inches wider, then drill holes and zip-tie to the egg crate.

Also I would shore up the egg crate with 1/2" PVC pipe, zip tied. Egg crate is a bit brittle, you want to make sure it doesn't snap because when it does it's usually like a zipper

 

[SFish]

I would make it with a wider base, maybe a few inches wider, then drill holes and zip-tie to the egg crate.

Also I would shore up the egg crate with 1/2" PVC pipe, zip tied. Egg crate is a bit brittle, you want to make sure it doesn't snap because when it does it's usually like a zipper

Not sure what you mean by shore up. You mean some how put PVC under the egg crate? I suppose I could just use acrylic instead of eggcrate.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Yes, if the egg crate is being used to span across a sump, then the weight of whatever you put on it increases the risk that it will bend and fracture. So just cut a few lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe to act as "rails" to give support ("shore up") the egg crate. zip tie them to the egg crate at either end and this transfers the bow/flex tendency partially to the egg crate and significantly reduces the point load where the egg crate rests on your sump

 

[Raoul5Duke]

I have a Surf 4 scrubber that I have been using for a couple of years with great results. I run the lights 18 hours & the air pumps 24/7. I would like to cut the air pumps down to 18 hours because they are freaking loud! Will this have a dramatic negative effect on the scrubber's production? How long do other using UAS run their air?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

If you cut flow 100%, make sure you also time this to coincide with the light cycle down time. Lights on + no flow/movement = dead algae. Less of a concern with a UAS but still a concern.

I doubt you would have any die-off in 6 hours but I guess it's hard to say without trying it out. As long as it stays wet. I'm guessing that when you cut the air, the scrubber will actually sink slightly due to buoyancy which will submerge the algae inside a little bit extra - should be fine.

 

[davidgnome]

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So a quick question, if my display tank has around 130 lbs of rock that is moderately covered in algae does this change how much I need to feed for my ATS to out compete the DT? I just read something to that effect on the previous page and am wondering if that's an issue. Or possibly adding iron as I am one month into my ATS and no signs of algae, just yellow gunk. Just to be clear I have a 6x5 screen, both sides illuminated by cfl bulbs, I should be feeding between 2 or 3 cubes correct? Thanks.