Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Rubber is safe, although it will slowly degrade.
biecacka
Active member
Few questions as I'm considering redoing my ATS. I built one in a hurry as a test and it works no doubt. However I made it too large for my needs and it was sloppy. I would love to see some DIY units that look good. I used clear acrylic before but want to incorporate a way to contain the light spill. Maybe encorporate black acrylic around it or using black acrylic. But my concern would be light penetration through the black acrylic. I'm looking for a screen about 4x6 or so. Here is a picture of the lights I will be using. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2273111&page=28
What size screen will these support?
Corey
What size screen will these support?
Corey
SFish
New member
Thank you
SFish
New member
From what I've seen you would just make a box around the outside of the whole thing that is black and leave the inside clear. I'm sure you know the screen size is based on feeding which would decide your lights.
Wally.B
Active member
Quick question about different Algae Harvests (to the ATS Guru's)?
So my ATS has been producing stable harvests (Most Thick Macro Like Algae), till a recent tank issue, requiring an extensive SYSTEM clean up and large water change.
ATS is running again (same old mature screen), but it's producing more stringy thin type Algae compared to before (many harvests) the Algae was a thick macro like?
Two kinds of Algae Harvests shown below. (Before and Now)
Is there an explanation?
(ie Does THICK-ALGAE=High Tank Nutrients) ??
( Flow Rate thru Upflow ATS off Tank Overflow may have changed.) ??
( I did also reduce the photo Period to ramp back up slowly) ??
ALL Above??
I like the thicker kind, since it peeled off the screen with no effort.
So my ATS has been producing stable harvests (Most Thick Macro Like Algae), till a recent tank issue, requiring an extensive SYSTEM clean up and large water change.
ATS is running again (same old mature screen), but it's producing more stringy thin type Algae compared to before (many harvests) the Algae was a thick macro like?
Two kinds of Algae Harvests shown below. (Before and Now)
Is there an explanation?
(ie Does THICK-ALGAE=High Tank Nutrients) ??
( Flow Rate thru Upflow ATS off Tank Overflow may have changed.) ??
( I did also reduce the photo Period to ramp back up slowly) ??
ALL Above??
I like the thicker kind, since it peeled off the screen with no effort.
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SantaMonica
Well-known member
Light will not go through black acrylic. Must cut a window. And I can't find what light you are considering.
Wally's current growth is just due to increased nutrients, because of the rebuild which killed off lots of the periphyton which was keeping nutrients lower. Any change in flow, lights, or placement of the rocks will kill of some periphyton, and a rebuild might kill most of it. That's why "mature" tanks are mature... they have thick periphyton.
Wally's current growth is just due to increased nutrients, because of the rebuild which killed off lots of the periphyton which was keeping nutrients lower. Any change in flow, lights, or placement of the rocks will kill of some periphyton, and a rebuild might kill most of it. That's why "mature" tanks are mature... they have thick periphyton.
iced98lx
New member
So far looking okay. Lighter green algae than when it's on/off for longer periods of time. Not sure if is a time side effect or other issue.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
As long as it's not too bright green, you're probably OK. But if you start to see yellowish colors, pay attention - if they start to turn white (like spots, in front of the LEDs) then dial the intensity back a bit.
iced98lx
New member
What I saw was yellowish so I went to an hour on, 15 minutes off. You think 24/7 with lower LED intensity is a better idea?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Either way is probably ok. What I've seen is that if you can match the intensity level to your tank/system, then you can usually run that intensity as long as you want.
If you have too much intensity, then (I think) what happens is that the rate of nutrient delivery is lower than the lighting can support, and that's when you get the yellowing or whiting.
So it's about the rates, and matching them. Theoretically if you could just find the point where the light coming in provides the exact amount of intensity needed to cause 100% adsorption of the nutrients being delivered, you wouldn't see any yellowing of growth.
If you have too much intensity, then (I think) what happens is that the rate of nutrient delivery is lower than the lighting can support, and that's when you get the yellowing or whiting.
So it's about the rates, and matching them. Theoretically if you could just find the point where the light coming in provides the exact amount of intensity needed to cause 100% adsorption of the nutrients being delivered, you wouldn't see any yellowing of growth.
2smokes
In Memoriam
Looks good but be carrefull with the electric wires if the led lamps are working on socket voltage.They look like 220-110V led lamps not 12V .Even if the light looks strong now ,with time the plexiglass box will get dirrty,with scratches and calcium deposits on it, and will block somme of that light.
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