Algae Scrubber Basics

That's fine to have the bottom of the screen underwater, I get that. What I'm saying is that with the primary drain where you have it now, with enough flow, half of your screen will likely be underwater because of the dynamics of a side outlet under high flow

Once you start to get good growth, that's going to start trapping water (3D growth, you want that) which could raise that even further, and the part of the screen that is always underwater is not going to get as much growth as the part that is above the water (with the exception of when it starts trapping water due to 3D growth)

If you put high secondary drain all the way to the bottom of that side panel, you'll still have the bottom of the screen submerged but you'll have a larger "active" waterfall area.

It may not end up working like I describe, I'm guessing at this point that you've tested it, and with the right flow rate, it might be OK.

I look at yours and think that there is an opportunity to made the primary drain really low and then put a valve on it to make it like a siphon, run very quiet, and have the left side drain act as a secondary (there would be a trickle in that all the time)

Then if you do have a clog in the primary side (very unlikely but it can happen) then you have a low secondary which is more effective and failsafe, because even though a side drain isn't as effective as a bottom drain, if you have it low enough, then with a sufficient "head" level above it, it's likely to close off, flush out the air, and purge the box. That would tend to repeat, which would be an audible indication that something is wrong.

The high secondary simply isn't going to work that way, at least, I don't think it will...it's more likely that it will only partially flow but never close off and flush, and while that would help in a partial clog of the primary drain, if you ever have a worst case scenario 100% blockage event of the primary, I think your box is going to overflow. Even if the high secondary does kick over, it has a limited range of operation before the siphon breaks, and then flow has to build up, and that is related to the water level across it.

What can happen is that as the water level increases quickly after a flush, air will get trapped in the elbow and result in a partial airlock, and the drain will never actually flush out and purge.

^^ this is actually what I feel happens with all side drains...I had a 1" side drain on a uniseal, at a low level, as a secondary to a tuned bottom drain and the box would fill up all the way to a constant level at least 4" above the top of the uniseal and it would never flush. In fact, it would hardly even flow....partial airlock is much more flow prohibitive than you would imagine.
 
As an addendum this airlock functionality could be limited to a side drain with an immediate 90 elbow. A more gradual sweep or something might more easily allow air to be purged out of a side drain. the sharp turn in the pipe might be the issue
 
I haven't tested it yet but at this point I would not be able to drill the bottom of the box the whole thing would be junk. It's bonded to the stand. I can't go bigger PVC on the side as the box is only 3" wide.
 
Could this be solved with a small hole in the pipe?
That's what I thought, so I did that, and it didn't change anything. Which I thought was weird.

May work to go from uniseal to a tee fitting, with the tee part connected to the pipe coming out of the uniseal, so there is a huge air gap above it so that water can free flow (eliminates air pocket), then add a small piece of pipe going up to keep water from splashing around
I haven't tested it yet but at this point I would not be able to drill the bottom of the box the whole thing would be junk. It's bonded to the stand.
Gotcha but what about adding a low hole on the right? Possible?
 
If 1/2 the screen will be under water then I don't see the point in keep it. The 2nd drain is only about 1" above the 1st one as the whole box isn't that big. That screen is a 5"x5" it's a little longer at the base.
 
Just based on pipe diameter, that 2nd drain looks like it is about 3" above the low one (center-to-center measurement)

Like I said though, flow test it and see what happens. 5" wide = 175 ish GPH which isn't overly much, that side drain as it might be OK and I could be wrong.

If you tried to blast 400 GPH through it, that's where you're gonna start to have problems.

Sorry...the scale thing might have thrown me off...

I still think it would be better to have that high drain lower down, should be easy to change
 
At 3" wide I don't think I could get a uniseal in. That would also force me to leave a big hole or run two pipes.
 
At this point I might as well test it and see what happens. If I get vacuum lock I can try to put a small hole in the pipe and If that doesn't work I can try a T. If a bunch of the screen is covered then I might as well throw it out.
 
At 3" wide I don't think I could get a uniseal in. That would also force me to leave a big hole or run two pipes.

I'm confused....

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^ there are already 2 uniseals in there, one on each side....
 
I could drill the hole no problem but as far as getting my hand down inside the box to push a uniseal in that's a different story. Your saying to drill another hole lower right? It's probably about 2 1/2" or 3" middle to middle.
 
Still confused. The uniseal goes on the outside. What I'm saying is, remove the one from the high hole, drill new hole on same side, at the same level as the low drain (or lower) and insert the uniseal there.

Then cover up the old (high) hole
 
U think a bulk head would seal? I would have to drill through the bracket and the ATS but that could be a way to put a 1" drain on the bottom.
 
Yes, that would work also. I think I wouldn't be too concerned with the seal, the way you have this made, even if you put a uniseal through the bottom it would be fine, you have it over the sump so the chances of any water escaping are pretty low, and you would be able to mitigate that by adding a ring of silicone around the drain to force any water that got around the uniseal to drip down.

If you used a uniseal through the base and bracket, that might not push all the way through the hole though, and pushing a pipe into it would be difficult, so you would have to just make the hole bigger. Could be a pain to do that.

Also with a drain on the bottom, you would increase the chance of it getting blocked as the growth would flow into the drain. Blocked is not really the right word though, more like "filled"...it will still flow, it will just get slowed down, and then the box would start filling up a little bit more day by day, but that can actually promote 3D growth. Then with your left-side secondary drain, that's going to help limit how much the water rises, so that would be a pretty good setup actually.

Another thing you might consider is instead of putting in a bottom bulkhead, just drill a hole there and bond the pipe directly to the bottom acrylic. That way it doesn't take up any room inside the box (no bulkhead flange)

You can bond the pipe to the acrylic a couple different ways, Weld-on 40 would be the best but that's $$$. You might be able to use epoxy too, or even just a standard PVC cement, I've used that to face-bond PVC to acrylic, but not to bond the end of a pipe to a flat piece of acrylic...that is a small surface area = weak bond joint. Might do that and then fill in around the pipe with epoxy after letting it dry for a day. Might need to just try it on some scrap first.

Just a few thoughts....
 
As far as the uniseal my thoughts were the same that it would not go all the way through and would be a pain. Didn't know u could bond PVC to acrylic. I do like the idea of the bulk head a little more only because the pipe could be removed if need be. I'll drill the bottom.

Thanks
 
Didn't know u could bond PVC to acrylic.

Yeah you "can"...it's not a very strong or useful bond though, at least, not to the ability of a DIYer. There is a way to structurally bond acrylic and PVC and Glass etc but that's a closely guarded secret by a few tank builders.
 
About 10 days of 24/7 lighting. Looks like I burnt one spot and overall needed to turn up the flow as I got some white bacteria build up along the top. Pretty cool though I could diffuse the blues a bit more as thats what it looks like the area came from and turn up the flow as I'm a 1/4 away from full on.

I haven't weighed my production before so don't know how this compares but to me it was below average production.

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After cleaning
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Burnt spot
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