Algae Scrubber Basics

Here's my design

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That's missing the emergency overflow, but it may be easier to visualize.

Here it is in real life

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Here's the light plate design

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And the finished plate

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Here was the sediment after only a few days

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Cleaned it up and then after another couple of days

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...

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Close up I think you can see the worm tracks in the mud

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Oh - I put my ricordea rock in there to introduce biodiversity

The coral actually isn't doing well under 24/7 light now but they're not dying... persistent infestation!
 
I think it's about zones again.

My tub is made up of three depth zones. The high light surface is driven by the side feed that creates the circulating flow (tank must have rounded ends to work). Algae and pods go nuts here.
The mid-layer "shadowed" zone is driven by a high flow pump circulating in the same direction. This keep the bottom of the algae agitated.

>>>The bottom "dark" zone is relatively<<< still with some flow driven by the shear forces from the layer above. This is where the sediment settles and creates a different pod zone.

how many feet deep is this tub?
 
18 inches. You don't need more than 3-4" for the calm bottom zone and likewise for the top 2". The rest is the 6-8" for the mid-zone. I have another 6" to the top with a sensor 2" from the rim and the emergency overflow 1" from the rim.
 
Ok got it! I think I know how to modify mine.. It's pretty simple actually I think.. I'm just wondering if I should actually turn my whites on now.. And I have noticed those worm tracks also.. I just always tried to fight the sediment..

I only need to figure out what and how the fish are going to respond.. I have 5 mollies,a damsel and a filefish in there.. Hmm...

Thanks!

From note 5
 
The silt reminds me of the gelatinous mass I used to get in my monster skimmer cup ... just softer and more spread out

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Here is the algae tank as it slowly built up it's algae mass

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unfortunately, the silt and algae was not what I had in mind for this tank... so I scrubbed down and started again

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this time, I had to focus on work and family and let it go... that negligence is what ended up forming the algae / sediment tank.
 
Does an Algae Scrubber reduce Dissolved Organic Carbon

Easy answer: No, they increase it, by putting into the water:


Vitamins:

Vitamin A
Vitamin E
Vitamin B6
Beta Carotene
Riboflavin
Thiamine
Biotin
Ascorbate (breaks chloramines into chlorine+ammonia)
N5-Methyltetrahydrofolate
Other tetrahydrofolate polyglutamates
Oxidized folate monoglutamates
Nicotinate
Pantothenate

Amino Acids:

Alanine
Aspartic acid
Leucine
Valine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Methionine
Aspartate
Glutamate
Serine
Proline

Carbohydrates (sugars):

Galactose
Glucose
Maltose
Xylose

Misc:

Glycolic Acid
Citric Acid (breaks chloramines into chlorine+ammonia)
Nucleic Acid derivatives
Polypeptides
Proteins
Enzymes
Lipids
 
18 inches. You don't need more than 3-4" for the calm bottom zone and likewise for the top 2". The rest is the 6-8" for the mid-zone. I have another 6" to the top with a sensor 2" from the rim and the emergency overflow 1" from the rim.

Is that the water depth, 18", or the tub depth?

I'm sure your system works well, but, I don't see how the water at the lower 3-4" would not be circulating at a rate equal to the top & middle layers which both have outlets forcing water in the same direction in a tub of 18" max depth?

Is this stillness important in the process? I imagine the sediment on the bottom would compact somewhat.
Do you remove any sediment at all, ever?

I can understand that there would some tapering off of light reaching the bottom layer with the algae growing on the surface blocking a great deal & algae particles drifting around the entire water column filtering more light.

Is a low light level at the bottom-sediment layer important?
 
the tub is 18". the water is ~12".

it is slowly circulating at the bottom, but the silt still collects. both the pump and the inlet circulating flows are directed upwards so the bottom flow is slow.

I haven't removed the sediment for the last 4 months.. no plans to, but we'll see.

The algae self-limits the lit region. That's good because I think pods need both the algae and the silt layers. Pods do prefer the dark, but you could argue that the internal folds of the algae are also dark.
 
Is the sediment a gritty detritus type, typically found at the bottom of a display tank?

Or is it more like a mud, as a result of decaying algae falling to the bottom of the tub?
 
Neither. It's not decaying algae. It's also not the usual grunge.
It's a soft silty mud (gelatinous) that caked up over time. It looks and feels like the solid export in my skimmer cup - creamy?
It is not gritty. It's very fine. I think this is fish poop acting like fertilizer for the algae.
When I used a monster screen ATS, I would find this type of stuff at the base of the algae attachment to the screen. This is also where the pods congregated.

A few months ago, I started taking down my in-sump ATS. It was getting weak with the tub taking over. You can see the bottom of the attachment here:

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It's going to be a non-organic silt mass, kind of like grey clay. All the organics will have been eaten out of it.

Is a low light level at the bottom-sediment layer important?

Tyree says it should be cryptic.
 
Anyone looked at this light for an ATS

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Specturm-Greenhouse-Flowering-Growing/dp/B01JLKUA2W

71tbW1J8TJL._SL1000_.jpg
 
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