srusso
Active member
plain old LEDs will not put out the PAR needed. If you have a PAR meter you should test it before wasting your time.
Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
plain old LEDs will not put out the PAR needed. If you have a PAR meter you should test it before wasting your time.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Something like a rope light probably would not work. 1W LEDs would have to be in a tight pattern but your thinking is correct, no water to penetrate. 2W or 3W LEDs have been used, primarily without lenses and using a diamond diffuser like you see on 2x4 recessed lights in ceilings. I'm actually working on developing an experiment to get to the bottom of which LEDs/what combination works the best for growing algae for our purposes, since apparently no one has done this. At this point, LEDs are still considered experimental, since very few have made devices that have proven the test of time when compared with T5HO or CFL.
Jstdv8
New member
I've been running my scrubber for about 8 months to a year now with great results, can't say enough great stuff about how it took away all my GHA, reduced my phos and trates to 0 and increased my pod population all while allowing me to feed way more than I ever have.
Took the skimmer offline and sold it a long time ago
But I do have a question.
My scrubber always seems to spray a little and MOST of the time it finds its way into the sump anyways. I left the top 2" of the screen smooth but that doesn't seem to stop it from growing up in the slot anyways.
I see some scrubbers that have relief notches cut across the screen slot every so often, would this be a good idea? or maybe just make the slot wider so it's not so tight around the screen?
I'm also planning on making a flimsy acrylic casing that would simply slide over the top of my scrubber and fit all the way down to the water so that if it sprays it can't spray on the bulbs or anything and also it gets kinda loud when it sprays so I was thinking this case would muffle the sound.
Thought?
Took the skimmer offline and sold it a long time ago
But I do have a question.
My scrubber always seems to spray a little and MOST of the time it finds its way into the sump anyways. I left the top 2" of the screen smooth but that doesn't seem to stop it from growing up in the slot anyways.
I see some scrubbers that have relief notches cut across the screen slot every so often, would this be a good idea? or maybe just make the slot wider so it's not so tight around the screen?
I'm also planning on making a flimsy acrylic casing that would simply slide over the top of my scrubber and fit all the way down to the water so that if it sprays it can't spray on the bulbs or anything and also it gets kinda loud when it sprays so I was thinking this case would muffle the sound.
Thought?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
The crosscuts are what you are referring to. They are not recommended anymore (they were at one time) because what happens is that they actually allow the algae to grow into the slot where the crosscuts are not located, and block the flow, causing the flow to be forced out of the notches instead, which causes more spraying than if you left the slot alone. The reason is that as algae grows into the slot, more pressure is created which prohibits the algae from growing further into the slot.
What you can try is cutting out the horizontal members of the screen just below the exit point of the slot tube. Go back to post #517 to see a picture of what I mean. This may increase the flow rate getting past the screen slightly also, so you may want to try just doing every 3rd section at first and see what happens.
If your screen is tight in the slot (like you have to force it in) then your slot is not wide enough. It should be 1/8" wide for the 1/16" #7 Mesh Plastic Canvas. Widening the slot may help alleviate spraying if you have more than 35 GPH/in of flow.
As for the acrylic drape-shield, if you go back to my summary #1036 this may give you a good idea of a cheap shield to use which may also block a little noise. Something like this is preferable for what you are talking about because if it warps it is easy to replace.
Also if you do one where you don't bond anything (using zip-ties instead) then I suggest making it out of polycarbonate instead of acrylic; acrylic has water content and will absorb more water and expand and warp easier, polycarbonate will not. Most "good" acrylic aquarium manufacturers will make their access hole lids out of polycarbonate for this reason. PS that's a new tip for those of you paying attention.
What you can try is cutting out the horizontal members of the screen just below the exit point of the slot tube. Go back to post #517 to see a picture of what I mean. This may increase the flow rate getting past the screen slightly also, so you may want to try just doing every 3rd section at first and see what happens.
If your screen is tight in the slot (like you have to force it in) then your slot is not wide enough. It should be 1/8" wide for the 1/16" #7 Mesh Plastic Canvas. Widening the slot may help alleviate spraying if you have more than 35 GPH/in of flow.
As for the acrylic drape-shield, if you go back to my summary #1036 this may give you a good idea of a cheap shield to use which may also block a little noise. Something like this is preferable for what you are talking about because if it warps it is easy to replace.
Also if you do one where you don't bond anything (using zip-ties instead) then I suggest making it out of polycarbonate instead of acrylic; acrylic has water content and will absorb more water and expand and warp easier, polycarbonate will not. Most "good" acrylic aquarium manufacturers will make their access hole lids out of polycarbonate for this reason. PS that's a new tip for those of you paying attention.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
No, google Polycarbonate Sheet. Lexan is a name brand, you can find that at Home Depot/Lowes
I have been off and on here and have read a large part of the thread but not all. I am going to start a ats on my 65 gallon sps and lps tank. Will i be fine doing this? I also want to use a quick disconnect for mine. I think it will be easier to get in and out of the sump for cleaning. Anyways here is a link of what I am thinking.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=cxrdve
http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=cxrdve
Jstdv8
New member
I havn't read up on these other guys setups but mine is made out of PVC that isn't glued together at the joints, doesnt leak at all surprisingly, but it allows me to pull it apart at the elbows with no trouble.
Those disconnects are cool looking though.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
It doesn't matter if it warps as long as you're not using it for anything but just blocking a little spray from lights that aren't attached to the acrylic. you can go as thin as you want, no need for anything thicker than 1/8" IMO
So I've read this entire thread. I really like the concept of the scrubber. I finished picking up the parts to make mine tonight. I Have a 75g tank. I think I'm going to end up with a screen size of about 8" Wide by 16" Tall, with about 8x11 lit. Going to be lit both sides. I'm going to start with one 23w cfl per side, with these big 10.5" reflectors I found.
I think as an experiment, I'm going to take a buffing wheel to them and some aluminum polish and see if I can get a good finish on then. The better the reflector, the better the usage of the slightly under powered lights.
I want to tie into my overflow. I measured it at 250gph. Should be 350 by pump specs. I think I can improve it but moving the pump to the other side of the sump eliminating 2' of hose, and replacing the hose with some that isnt full of hair algae inside!
I dont know if it is an issue or not, but since my legs will be pvc and part of the water system, I dont want stagnant water in them. I'm going to use unions to I can take the top off easy. I found these plugs I can cut down, then slip into and glue into the union before the pipe, preventing water from getting into the legs.
How much risk is there of the slot plugging and causing my overflow to back up? Thats the only real concern I have right now.
My pile of parts
I think as an experiment, I'm going to take a buffing wheel to them and some aluminum polish and see if I can get a good finish on then. The better the reflector, the better the usage of the slightly under powered lights.
I want to tie into my overflow. I measured it at 250gph. Should be 350 by pump specs. I think I can improve it but moving the pump to the other side of the sump eliminating 2' of hose, and replacing the hose with some that isnt full of hair algae inside!
I dont know if it is an issue or not, but since my legs will be pvc and part of the water system, I dont want stagnant water in them. I'm going to use unions to I can take the top off easy. I found these plugs I can cut down, then slip into and glue into the union before the pipe, preventing water from getting into the legs.
How much risk is there of the slot plugging and causing my overflow to back up? Thats the only real concern I have right now.
My pile of parts
Jstdv8
New member
It may have been fixed or maybe I'm going off old information, but I noticed in the very first post of this thread that it says to use 23w bulbs. That's not entirely correct the way I've read it. you need to match your wattage to the screen size and to the GPH which is all linked to the total gallons of tank water you are trying to scrub. So it's 1/2 a watt per gallon as I've come to understand. I use 2 27 watt bulbs on my 8 x 12 screen which in both cases is just a little undersized for my 120g tank, but it works just fine. MY GPH is actually overkill, but I get better growth with that then I did when I had too little flow.
Just my .02 from when I built mine a year ago, things may have changed slightly since then.
Just my .02 from when I built mine a year ago, things may have changed slightly since then.
redneckgearhead
Active member
So I've read this entire thread. I really like the concept of the scrubber. I finished picking up the parts to make mine tonight. I Have a 75g tank. I think I'm going to end up with a screen size of about 8" Wide by 16" Tall, with about 8x11 lit. Going to be lit both sides. I'm going to start with one 23w cfl per side, with these big 10.5" reflectors I found.
I think as an experiment, I'm going to take a buffing wheel to them and some aluminum polish and see if I can get a good finish on then. The better the reflector, the better the usage of the slightly under powered lights.
I want to tie into my overflow. I measured it at 250gph. Should be 350 by pump specs. I think I can improve it but moving the pump to the other side of the sump eliminating 2' of hose, and replacing the hose with some that isnt full of hair algae inside!
I dont know if it is an issue or not, but since my legs will be pvc and part of the water system, I dont want stagnant water in them. I'm going to use unions to I can take the top off easy. I found these plugs I can cut down, then slip into and glue into the union before the pipe, preventing water from getting into the legs.
How much risk is there of the slot plugging and causing my overflow to back up? Thats the only real concern I have right now.
My pile of parts
You might have to weigh down your legs/stand. It might try to float with no water in it.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
1/2 watt per square inch of screen or gallon of water in the DT is the minimum you want. Preferrably you want 1 w/g
redneckgearhead
Active member
Yea I was planing on removing the lights from the rope and mounting them in a piece of acrylic. I believe there are several hundred leds in the ropes so we shall see.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I'd be interested to see what the PAR reading is from such a setup.
redneckgearhead
Active member
Ill see if my LFS has a par meter. What should it be?
I was thinking about using my CFL's on one side and the LED's on the other. I wonder if that would give me a good comparison?
I was thinking about using my CFL's on one side and the LED's on the other. I wonder if that would give me a good comparison?
Ya. I thought about that. May fill them with sand. Just dont like the idea of water not ciculating in the bottom of the legs.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
If you think about it, there are sections deep within your LR that get no circulation. I would not worry about it. But sand should work.
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