Algae Scrubber Basics

[Dave1NC]

It could be coming from the slot end. I did not glue that part in case I needed to take it off. I'll go ahead and glue it to see if it prevents water from dripping onto the brace. I am also going to get some plastic screws, washers and wing-nuts at Lowe's to see if that keeps the lexan straighter along the top and sides

 

[rysher]

this is my first design from 5mos ago, with this design the light spill all over the place and i had problem with red slime on my sump.

this is the new design, i used black plexiglass, made an 8 inch diameter whole for the light and kept all the light inside the box, no spillage.
NOTE: this is with the reflector moved an inch back so you guys can see but when i move it back to its original position, you cant see any light spilling, so no algae grows in my sump.

 

[mistaflicksta]

This is my new set up with the ATS only lit on one side. the screen is 8w X 10l.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

This is my new set up with the ATS only lit on one side. the screen is 8w X 10l.

Are you running a 90 g DT like your sig says? Looks like you have room to slide the skimmer to the right, and add another light on the other side. If you can, I would do that. 2 sided screens are much more effective and efficient than 1 sided.

 

[mistaflicksta]

Are you running a 90 g DT like your sig says? Looks like you have room to slide the skimmer to the right, and add another light on the other side. If you can, I would do that. 2 sided screens are much more effective and efficient than 1 sided.

Yeah I will eventually do that. I just did the tank swap this weekend so I will leave things alone till everithing settles in. Then I will consider the other light. I dont want to take the skimmer completely off line

 

[Anycall2]

day 6 growth

day 6 growth

Hello Everyone in the ReefWorld,:wave:

After reading through this thread, I decided to try out the the ATS. All natural filter system seems the way to go. I am trying to decide when to remove the skimmer and phosban reactor.

I was hoping for some feedback in terms of progression of algae growth on my scrubber. Specs are as follows 17" x 6" on T5's (2whites and a blue actnic) both sides lighting.

Was wondering if there was a progression of types of algae growth on these scrubbers.

Many Thanks

 

[Twiegs]

Srusso-

I was wondering where you got the light fixtures from that your using? They look plastic which would be good for no rust. I'm currently using the old silver shop lights from home depot. I like your lights better though. They would make more room in the sump as well.

Thanks!

 

[flyhigh123]

Do you have a link to the "oscillating multifunction tool"

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscill...sImlzIjoiMTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lkIjoiODAyOCJ9

when i bought it, it came with 4 attachments, but they no longer give them. Get the halfmoon cutter if it doesnt come with it.

 

[jrp1588]

I love Harbor Freight Tools. cheap stuff, but it works. I have a small 900watt generator that I use on my tank when storms knock out the power. I also bought an electric impact wrench that has helped me bust loose many a rusted nut on my car.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Hello Everyone in the ReefWorld,:wave:

After reading through this thread, I decided to try out the the ATS. All natural filter system seems the way to go. I am trying to decide when to remove the skimmer and phosban reactor.

I was hoping for some feedback in terms of progression of algae growth on my scrubber. Specs are as follows 17" x 6" on T5's (2whites and a blue actnic) both sides lighting.

Was wondering if there was a progression of types of algae growth on these scrubbers.

Many Thanks

You need to switch to 2700K-3000K lamps. The actinic blues and 10000K whites are the incorrect spectrum for algae growth. Get these or a similar lamp:

https://www.aghydroponics.com/T5-2Ft-Grow-Bulbs-24W-HO-3000k-8pack-p/litbulbt5-pxfl248308.htm

There is a progression, but it usually depends on the initial status of the tank water parameters. You should generally get a brown diatom (slime) growth for the first couple days to maybe a couple weeks, which you should only gently rub with fingertips and gently rinse in slow running tap water, followed by brown or green hair algae.

 

[travis32]

UPDATE: Noticable results with ATS. Well, It's been a long while since I've posted any updates anywhere on here.

I would like to report that my 125g display that was filled with green, healthy, looking hair algae, is almost devoid of green finally. Part of it is because I stopped feeding when I lost 60% of my fish due to an extended power outtage while I was on vacation... I had 3 fish left, and they were pretty much scroungers anyways, a blenny, a sleeper goby, and a cleaner wrasse. I went for 2 months without feeding much more than a sheet of nori once a week and some flake now and again. With the ATS, the skimmer pulling out thick dark green crap, and low feeding, the Hair algae finally died off. A lot of Briopsis took it's place, but it too is lacking green coloring.

So, with that said, my rocks are still covered in briopsis. After no feeding, the scrubber, and every other day 10 gallon water changes for the last 1-2 weeks, I'm not sure what else to do. So, I'm going to take a plunge and dose a lot of tech-M to try to melt the remaining briopsis out.

It may adversely affect the scrubber, but, I have to do something. Once the briopsis is all but eliminated, then the scrubber should be able to pick up where everything else left off..

The corals -- SPS, LPS, and softie mixed reef, a clam, and 3 RBTAs, are all doing really awesome. Lots of signs of growth and polyp extension, everything is great, just the briopsis is the last algae to take root and the last to go it seems..

Weekly the scrubber continuously has more and more green algae growing on it, after 3months of operation with this screen, it appears to be rapidly maturing and doing it's job to keep phosphates down.

Briopsis seems to survive on more than just phosphates though...

So, I'm getting a large amount of tech-M tonight, I'll be doing daily dosing until I find a level that the briopsis just melts away.

If you have any other suggestions for Briopsis elimination I'm open to them.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

That supposedly should do the trick - raising the Mag. 1600 is what I seem to remember being the number. Remember to not raise it more than 100 points per 24 hours. I prefer 50-75 at most to be safe.

 

[srusso]

Srusso-

I was wondering where you got the light fixtures from that your using? They look plastic which would be good for no rust. I'm currently using the old silver shop lights from home depot. I like your lights better though. They would make more room in the sump as well.

Thanks!

Yes they are plastic, got these lights at home depot as well. I believe they are the cheapest drop lights they sell. You of course know that you need to DIY some reflectors on them, that makes a big difference. The good and bad and the ugly about it...? Good is that you don't get the hot spots on the screen like you do when the bulb is pointed directly at the screen. The bad is you will need a little more light because of that. And the ugly is that extra light into the sump... So other than that they work well for me.

 

[srusso]

UPDATE: Noticable results with ATS. Well, It's been a long while since I've posted any updates anywhere on here.

I would like to report that my 125g display that was filled with green, healthy, looking hair algae, is almost devoid of green finally. Part of it is because I stopped feeding when I lost 60% of my fish due to an extended power outtage while I was on vacation... I had 3 fish left, and they were pretty much scroungers anyways, a blenny, a sleeper goby, and a cleaner wrasse. I went for 2 months without feeding much more than a sheet of nori once a week and some flake now and again. With the ATS, the skimmer pulling out thick dark green crap, and low feeding, the Hair algae finally died off. A lot of Briopsis took it's place, but it too is lacking green coloring.

So, with that said, my rocks are still covered in briopsis. After no feeding, the scrubber, and every other day 10 gallon water changes for the last 1-2 weeks, I'm not sure what else to do. So, I'm going to take a plunge and dose a lot of tech-M to try to melt the remaining briopsis out.

It may adversely affect the scrubber, but, I have to do something. Once the briopsis is all but eliminated, then the scrubber should be able to pick up where everything else left off..

The corals -- SPS, LPS, and softie mixed reef, a clam, and 3 RBTAs, are all doing really awesome. Lots of signs of growth and polyp extension, everything is great, just the briopsis is the last algae to take root and the last to go it seems..

Weekly the scrubber continuously has more and more green algae growing on it, after 3months of operation with this screen, it appears to be rapidly maturing and doing it's job to keep phosphates down.

Briopsis seems to survive on more than just phosphates though...

So, I'm getting a large amount of tech-M tonight, I'll be doing daily dosing until I find a level that the briopsis just melts away.

If you have any other suggestions for Briopsis elimination I'm open to them.

Just am about finished fixing my bryopsis problem with Tech M as well. Used 64oz of it, stopped being able to test the mag level once it hit over 1500 with my salifert test. About 3 or 4 times a day I added 100ml of tech M. My SPS, LPS, softies, fish, algae scrubber... basically everything in the tank seemed to not even notice the change in Mg. I am a little over a week and 90% has gone away. To be fair, after I finished dosing I did do a large pruning, but its not growing back. Anyone thats had a bryopsis problem knows that stuff grows back fast... The stems all turned clear/white and you can tell the bryopsis has lost its grip...

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

You can test >1500 on Salifert by just refilling the syringe and continuing to drip, then just add to the 1500 figure.

 

[travis32]

+1 On Floyd's response. I've done that before. Yeah the briopsys isn't growing or expanding. It's just sitting there looking ugly. I've pruned some of it away and it won't come back. But, a lot of it is still attached, I can lift a rock with just a few strands of it. So, it's attached fairly well still.

It's a grayish color though not so much green anymore.. So, I'm hoping the tech-m will finish it off. Problem is it's going to take alot for a 125g.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Yeah a 16 oz bottle will only raise your Mag about 70 points, and according to their instructions, you should split that over 3 or 4 days (18.4 points/day). What about just getting some Mag from Bulk Reef Supply or someplace like it and just dosing that?

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...magnesium/magnesium-supplements-for-aquariums

Way cheaper.

 

[jrp1588]

Since I've been running my scrubber, my dinos seem less virulent. They don't grow on the rocks and corals much at all anymore. They are still a problem in the sand though.

 

[travis32]

There was a huge thread on here somewhere. I'm not pulling it up now, but, essentially there's something with the tech-M formula. You could raise your mag with basic MGCL from BRS until you're blue in the face and not see briopsys die off or raise it so high that inverts start dieing... Tech-M has an impurity or trace element in it or it's a combination of all the elements, that raising mag a couple 200-300ppm using Tech -M kills briopsys.

No one knows for sure what element it is or why, but it apparently works. Say, MG is tests out at 1200. And you raise MG to 1500 using tech -M that would be enough to kill the briopsys off. Doing the Same with MGCL would do nothing to the briopsys. I know because I'm consistantly running Mag at 1500-1600 for the last 3-4 months. It's not dieing...
I've done a series of water changes now to lower it to 1200 so now I can dose tech - m raise it to 1500-1600 and hopefully have a massive die off...

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Ah, I was wondering about that. I noticed that there were a lot of other elements in the Tech-M. Maybe it's a combination of things. Good to know, thanks for that info.