Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
_shorty_
New member
I have JUST gone through this.. it has given me an understanding/appreciation for good quality source water. My RO membrane had gone out (maybe a couple months ago) and I didn't realize it until only a couple weeks ago. (I didn't have a TDS meter at the time) So, it ripped through DI resin, and was dumping top-off water of about 85 TDS. Measuring NO3 on this water was off the charts.
So, why didn't I notice it sooner? - because my ATS kept up... (mostly) My NO3 did creep up very slowly. But I had a poor quality low resolution NO3 test kit, so it took a while to notice. Also was able to blame mildly fluctuating DKH while trying to dial in a new Ca Reactor... so I was distracted from looking at another source of my issues.
My zoas and LPS are thriving - but my SPS did not like the experience. I lost several frags, and I am watching my largest colony waste away, hoping another hangs in there.
My simplified take away from this has been that the SPS can't handle the bad stuff going into the water, even with the ATS taking it out. It is still exposed to the bad stuff before the scrubber can take it out (especially if it's dumping in at a rate faster than the scrubber can keep up). We really don't know what bad stuff is in our water without the use of an RO/DI.
I also bought a nice resolution NO3 (red sea) test kit, TDS meter (before and after DI resin cannisters), and new RO membrane and restrictor/flush valve.
Since the new membrane and 0-TDS 0-NO3 water going in now (with a couple 5 gal water changes on a 140g system) - my NO3 has dropped 7 ppm down to below 3 within a week, and continues to drop.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Ugh! my tap water TDS is over 500 on the TDS meter, and my city is considered to have "good water". Needless to say, we have a 3-stage RO for drinking water in addition to my 6-stage RODI (2 DI canisters in series).
_shorty_
New member
I'm sure my pre filtered water is similarly as bad. The 80 something TDS water still went through I think through a .5, then .1 micron filters, a carbon filter (the good ones that take out lead and stuff). Then through a 'busted' ro membrane and then through DI resin. I was still getting the 86ish TDS, though.
My point being - good source water is important to maintaing a healthy system. Lesson learned... here.
I will also add the RO water from culligan/walmart was almost equally as bad as my bad RO membrane water!! if anyone is using it. I started my system with the stuff, cause my RO wouldn't produce fast enough for my taste and as our RO produces our drinking water too... So, ya, be diligent with your source water. I definitely took it for granted prior to this experience.
My point being - good source water is important to maintaing a healthy system. Lesson learned... here.
I will also add the RO water from culligan/walmart was almost equally as bad as my bad RO membrane water!! if anyone is using it. I started my system with the stuff, cause my RO wouldn't produce fast enough for my taste and as our RO produces our drinking water too... So, ya, be diligent with your source water. I definitely took it for granted prior to this experience.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
There is a rather timely article in the Des Moines Register today regarding water quality. The rivers here are having a record nitrate spike and it's putting the WWTP to the test. This is a treatment plant that was installed in 1991-92 after a nitrate limit violation, and apparently it is a "$7000/day, largest-in-the-world nitrate-removal plant" (direct quote) and they are barely keeping under the EPA 10ppm limit. Sounds like they only run it when they need it, which has been the case for the last 50 days. The record is 106 straight days in 1999
I found it rather shocking that Des Moines has the largest nitrate removal plant in the world. However we are smack in the middle of corn/bean/biofuel country.
I found it rather shocking that Des Moines has the largest nitrate removal plant in the world. However we are smack in the middle of corn/bean/biofuel country.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Walmart or any other RO drinking water source just needs to be tested. One WM in my area had 0 TDS RO water consistently. Another was 20 or so and then 150 one time! I use those in a pinch and only after testing (usually)
duganderson
Member
Upflow Alage Scrubber...how long can bubbler be off??
Upflow Alage Scrubber...how long can bubbler be off??
I have an upflow algae scrubber (Santa Monica HOG.5 with 2 LEDs). I'm curious how long the bubbler can be off in a power outage without negatively impacting the effectiveness of the upflow algae scrubber? What negative things would happen if the bubbler was off too long?
Also, would it be OK for the bubbler to be off daily for 5 minutes or so and monthly for 30-60 minutes? The way I'm planning to change my controller and power strip configuration would shut off my bubbler for a few minutes daily for feeding AND 30--60 minutes monthly for water changes. Is this too much time off for the bubbler?
Upflow Alage Scrubber...how long can bubbler be off??
I have an upflow algae scrubber (Santa Monica HOG.5 with 2 LEDs). I'm curious how long the bubbler can be off in a power outage without negatively impacting the effectiveness of the upflow algae scrubber? What negative things would happen if the bubbler was off too long?
Also, would it be OK for the bubbler to be off daily for 5 minutes or so and monthly for 30-60 minutes? The way I'm planning to change my controller and power strip configuration would shut off my bubbler for a few minutes daily for feeding AND 30--60 minutes monthly for water changes. Is this too much time off for the bubbler?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Due to the inherent nature of the HOG, no bubbles=no flow. But since it's submerged you could probably go at least a day or so before any algae started dying. Heck you can let a waterfall screen hanging in open air go without flow for a few hours and it will generally be fine. No worries at all man.
If you had no bubbles for a prolonged period but still had light, that probably would be a problem - burned/bleached/dead algae. So if you are planning on turning off bubbles, also turn off light.
If you had no bubbles for a prolonged period but still had light, that probably would be a problem - burned/bleached/dead algae. So if you are planning on turning off bubbles, also turn off light.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
As a side note I don't think you should bother to turn the scrubber off for either of the events you mentioned. Just no reason, IMO.
duganderson
Member
Thanks for your thoughts about this.
Turning off the bubbler on the scrubber during feeding and water changes would be due to trying to simplify my wiring/power strip/controller setup instead of intentionally trying to shut if off.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Just 660s.
Thanks, I'm not so sure about the seize, I have a 132 gallon tank , I know it has to be calculated with the amount of food but I'm still cycling so I do not feed yet because there are no fish.
I also have a skimmer. I was thinking about a screen of 10" wide and 13" tall. The flow should not be a problem , I have a pump with a capacity of 1320 gph.
As for the lighting I was thinking something like this on each side:
20x 1 watt 660nm led
3x 1 watt 455nm led
I also have a skimmer. I was thinking about a screen of 10" wide and 13" tall. The flow should not be a problem , I have a pump with a capacity of 1320 gph.
As for the lighting I was thinking something like this on each side:
20x 1 watt 660nm led
3x 1 watt 455nm led
flakey
Member
with the vast array of LEDs out there, can you make a recommendation as to which LED's we should purchase? I live in the UK and have been looking on ebay and the majority of them are from china such as these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-3W-...143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6b9db797
Are these ok ? or are there better tried and tested leds out there?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-3W-...143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6b9db797
Are these ok ? or are there better tried and tested leds out there?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
a 10x13 screen is really huge, 10 cube/day if set up right, so it might not work perfectly until you get a significant bioload, but you can vary the light cycle so that it's only lit a few hours/day I suppose for a start.
But you definitely want 3W LEDs, unless you feel like cramming more 1W in there.
The recommendation I am making currently is one 3W 660nm Deep Red on each side of every 8 sq in (minimum) or 4 sq in (maximum) at a distance of 2-4 inches. So for 10x13=130 sq in, that's 16-32 LEDs. If you use 1W, I would double that, so 32-64 LEDs.
1W LEDs "seem" to be really bright, but in terms of algal growth penetration, that's where they lose out to 3W.
Well any LED that advertises in lumens is dead wrong anyways and probably no bin control. 660s need to be measured in terms of radiant flux to be relevant. The short is that they will likely grow algae just fine though, they're just not the most ideal in terms of wavelength and power consistency.
The most consistent LEDs I've found are Philips Luxeon ES but I understand that they are a little harder to come by over there.
So my screen is too big (it is just the amount of space I have) , what seize would you recommend? I'm going for 3 watt luxeon leds
Size is baed on feeding. 1 cube a day is 12 square inches of screen, lit both sides. Scales up from there, so 24 square inches will do 2 cubes.
jwoyshnar
Active member
Your screen is not too big. Try it. I just took mine down due to a crack in my sump so I have to redo it but that scrubber was 16x10. I never have bought Into the cube theory. I had growth two inches out from the screen every 5 days. Never had die off. My suggestion is to monitor your scrapings when you do clean the mesh. I don't think you will have an issue.
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