and the setup begins!!

Well sir have fun and make sure you enjoy what you are doing. If you use any uncured rock or add more later on you risk a spike in the nitrogen cycle and potentially put any inhabitants in the tank at risk. Or you can cycle any new rock in a plastic tub before adding to you display tank. Your sandbed seems fine, some do dense sand bed or even bare bottom. So go with what you like.
 
Ok so what I was trying to say is illuminations. So idk what you were trying to prove from that? That basically backed me up if anything. Maybe you should read that?
 
I was referring to your questions about sand and live rock. I've said my piece on lighting, you ultimately are the one to make your own decision. I'm glad you are reading and asking others for their opinion, but it IS only our opinion. You make your own mind up. I would love some photos when you get everything setup!
 
Ok well I just don't how you can say these lights or those lights won't work? When there's people using them on reef tanks and there doing just fine? How can I ask the corals if there getting enough light? All you guys do is push for top high end stuff the us more the enough! When there's people like me whole don't have as much money as they want I work go to school help my gf with rent and have a car payment. So can you please explain throughly why those lights won't work.
 
I have 1000 left to get lights and live rock. Sand power heads. So that's where I stand I can get 4 dollars a pound on live rock. What do you think I should get you guys decide I will do what you say!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13190216#post13190216 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TANK0789
Also will those lights from petsmart I showed you will they be good enough for beginner corals and anomones? O also what would be a good amount of live rock?
Click to expand...

Those lights won't work. Aside from putting too much stress on the support of the tank, if the support isn't flush with the sides of the tank the light will sit ****-eyed. Even if you had 2 you would only have 78w (39wx2). That is nowhere near the amount of light you need for a reef tank. I have 4 54w T5HO lights on my tank. I'll still be limited to the corals I can keep in my tank. I accept it & focus on the other things I can afford.

For the live rock I'd do it the cheap way: Buy 100lbs or so & then buy another 75-100lbs of base/dry rock. It'll take awhile for it all to seed, but if you're on a budget it would be the best way to go, assuming you're willing to be patient & let the tank cycle. If you don't let the tank cycle correctly you're going to add your first fish & it'll go belly up. And just in case you haven't looked at SW fish- they're fairly expensive compared to FW fish.

Your tank is 72", correct?
This setup would probably be the best for keeping corals:
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...tput_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_Sunlight_Supply

2 of these would probably be sufficient to get started/keep lower light corals:
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...ch__2x80W_Tek_2_T5_High-Output_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_Sunlight_Supply

If I were you I'd look in the classifieds for someone getting rid of a lighting setup. I happened to get lucky & another member was getting a 6 or 8 bulb setup so I offered to buy his 4 bulb setup.

For the overflow I'm using an Eshopps overflow box:
Sump01.jpg


It creates a siphon & causes water to drain via a 1" tube to my sump.

From my sump I have my mag 7 pump water back to the main tank:
NewSump01.jpg


The lower right valve is the main On/Off. The one above it leads to the main tank. The middle one is for water changes (I push a piece of PVC w/ elbow into the valve & drain the water into a bucket. Makes it so I don't have to siphon the water out myself.

The valve on the lower left controls the flow back to the main tank. The more it's open the more water that circulates back into the sump & less water goes to the main tank. I did that vs using it on the main supply because I don't want to put any extra stress on the pump.
 
ok thank you. but i thought for lights it not all about watts? and for my over flow i just got my diamond hole saw with my bulkhead and bulk head filter. which i will have pvc hooked up to to lead to my sump and fuge. lights i got the first link to work not the second.
 
It's not ALL about watts but ... PAR meters are expensive (IMO) and its close enough to be helpful. T5 lighting is good but not good enough to suffciently help any coral live healthly with only 78watts of lighting I don't care if it's Icecap or not. That just isn't sufficient IMO.

I know that there is a lot of DIY options to cut costs but lets be honestly. The only two things that happen quickly with saltwater are:

1. Problems
2. Empty bank accounts
 
o one other thing there were 3 metal halides and 3 icecap balastes for 550 at a local pet store that some guy guy and doesnt want. umm is there a way i could set those up? what else would i need and can i set it up somehow for now with no canopy?? thanks!
 
Those PCs you linked would look nice on a fish only tank, but still not enough light for corals. You still run into the issue of putting too much weight on the center brace. If the center brace has too much weight on it it'll break. Once it breaks the tank will start to bow & has the possibility of breaking. That's a lot of water to mop up.

Is it 3 metal halide sockets, reflectors, ballasts, & bulbs? If so it would probably be sufficient depending on the wattage & would be better than anything else you've considered. Find out what is included, brands of the equipment, wattage, if they're single or double ended & post it up here.
 
And yes a lot of times you can make pendants out of metal halides and don't need a canopy, but the lights will hang over your tank. The big difference between T5s that are a good setup and power compact is the individual reflectors over the T5s. That makes sure almost all of the light goes into the tank. Honestly I did quite a bit a research and came to these possible solutions:

1. Metal halide (kinda pricey, runs hot, but delivers nicely on usable light and you get that lovely shimmer)

2. T5 with individual reflectors give a decent amount of usable light and runs cooler, no shimmer and you normally need more bulbs than MH (less energy to use though)

3. Just do a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) and use any old cheap light LOL. Odd choice but if cash is a problem just do this and let the tank mature and by the time you have the money for a permanent light setup you will have the ideal settings for anemones and more delicate corals


*edit* LOL seems I like lists now :) :rollface: :rolleye1:
 
Ok there an hour away so I am not running up there just to look at name. There on drs foster and smith there hqi 250 watt no bulbs. There like 260 a piece on there website and it comes with 3 icecap balasts
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Aquascape question?
2 3 4
Replies
74
Views
1K
griss
griss
B
Left Tank for a long time, now want to reboot
Replies
8
Views
398
SantaMonica
S
R
Sandbed depth question
Replies
9
Views
364
Guygettnby
Guygettnby
J
Corals for the first time!
Replies
14
Views
3K
griss
griss
D
Filter and heater for 125G
Replies
4
Views
262
wvned
wvned
Back
Top