i wouldnt do anything for awile the stress could put it over the edge.marroons and tomatoes do over love them but i have seem marroons also be very tender and aid in the healing and if he is feeding it you just might be able to get this guy back,do not move him till he is unbleached.this is not impossible and can easly be done by small feeding and good water quality.soak his food with selcon or zoa and get youre iron on the high side this will help the zoo reproduce fast wich is what you want.keep water changes up and also amke sure they are the same temp ,ph,ans salinity b4 you add it.i have a feeling you can do this and in my expierence with the couple i have brought back they become hardier and you tend to have a good sence in nem care.gl i have done this many time for me and friendstime and patients john.
Anemone Help
- Thread starter Johnathanb
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Johnathanb
New member
The maroons are about an inch big, the anemone seems to be fine, it is shrinking and expanding like sqwat said earlier. Nothing has changed about the anemone in the earlier pictures.
I did some tests just recently and they all came out the same as before. I increased the salinity to 1.0255 slowly. As for the selcon, I will have to wait untill tuesday to go and pick that up from the pet store. For water changes, how often, and how much, should they be done for the anemone not to be overly stressed? I have been doing about a gallon water change about every 3 days, that was me trying to bring down the Nitrate.
Thanks again for everyones help
I did some tests just recently and they all came out the same as before. I increased the salinity to 1.0255 slowly. As for the selcon, I will have to wait untill tuesday to go and pick that up from the pet store. For water changes, how often, and how much, should they be done for the anemone not to be overly stressed? I have been doing about a gallon water change about every 3 days, that was me trying to bring down the Nitrate.
Thanks again for everyones help
If you do a gallon every 3 days for a 20 gallon, that's ~10% per week, which is excellent. Small, regular changes like that are idea. I'm glad you're doing everything you can to take care of the anemone. If you keep up your diligent care, you will hopefully be rewarded with a very nice, healthy BTA.
Johnathanb
New member
Thanks, I honestly hope this all goes through. I would hate to lose the BTA, so im trying my hardest to keep him alive, and learn from this experience. Do you have any advice on how to drop the Nitrate level? I have seen a few chemicals at the pet store awhile ago to drop Nitrate levels, wondering if I should grab a bottle of that aswell.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
I would not use any chemicals for that. The easiest way to drop them is by doing water changes. In addition, I wouldn't dose any iron. Iodine can help with bleached anemones, but a quality salt mix will provide enough.
So, IMO/E, just stick with doing your water changes -- which will help with your nitrates -- and feed it small quantities of food.
So, IMO/E, just stick with doing your water changes -- which will help with your nitrates -- and feed it small quantities of food.
Johnathanb
New member
Sounds good then, I will just continue with my constant 1 gallon water changes every three days. I do have a protein skimmer aswell. For the water flow, I have read BTA requires moderate flow. I have two powerheads 250gph, on the far back side of the left and right side of the aquarium, one is flowing straight and upward, while the other is flowing at an angle upwards. Is this to much flow? Or is there a better placement of my powerheads for a desired flow? Will too much flow stress the anemone out?
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
You have ~500 gph turnover in a 20 gallon. That's plenty of circulation, but I wouldn't worry about it being too much. I would point the currents from the two powerheads so they will collide and cause random water movement and you don't want the flow directly pointed toward the anemone.
Johnathanb
New member
Yea I wasnt to worried about my flow or lighting aswell, because the BTA found his spot pretty quick, wasnt to much wondering around. As for the BTA, is eating and still on the side of the live rock, and has never detached itself. I just did another gallon water change, and about an hour later did some test. Still the same levels, with Nitrate still at 20 ppm.
Johnathanb
New member
I do have a sand bed, it is about 3 inches deep. I plan on visiting Petco today or tomorrow, if I get the chance today. Does anyone reccommend anything I should pick up at petco, such as supplements for the BTA. Here are a couple of pictures of the BTA and clowns I took when I woke up this morning.
Johnathanb
New member
I do keep an eye on my clowns, they never leave the BTA unless it starts to shrink, there always feeding the BTA, which was a concern for me. Can the BTA being overfed be a bad thing for it? Or if its full will it not eat anymore? I didnt get a chance to hit the petstore or LFS today, but will be making a trip to both tomorrow.
I will pick up some more test kits for the Cal, Alk, and Mag. And will start on the BTA and maroon's long term home, a BioCube HQI. Hopefully the BTA has recovered by the time the new tank has cycled. I know that you are suppose to add anemones into a 6 month or older tank. I was wondering would that be case for me? Even if I add my current live rock with the new live rock I will be adding?
Thanks for the help
I will pick up some more test kits for the Cal, Alk, and Mag. And will start on the BTA and maroon's long term home, a BioCube HQI. Hopefully the BTA has recovered by the time the new tank has cycled. I know that you are suppose to add anemones into a 6 month or older tank. I was wondering would that be case for me? Even if I add my current live rock with the new live rock I will be adding?
Thanks for the help
If you don't have corals, you don't really have to worry with Ca or Mg testing. Anemones aren't particularly concerned with that and the water changes will keep the levels in check--assuming you're using a decent salt mix. Reef Crystals or Instant Ocean or Tropic Marin are all fine for an anemone without worrying about adding Ca or Mg. Or, for that matter, Alk. I think sometimes with anemones it's better not to add any of that. I personally only rely on water changes and don't dose.
I wouldn't worry about the clowns overfeeding the BTA. Since it's bleached, the food will encourage zooxanthellae growth and provide nutrition that the zooxanthellae would otherwise be providing. It's important that the food items are small. The anemone can digest the food with less effort and obtain the most nutrition.
Different opinions on transferring from your current setup to a new tank. But generally speaking, some cycle will occur if you use your current sand and LR. The process of shaking everything up will disrupt the nitrogen cycle and, in turn, result in a cycle, albeit a small one. If you could leave your 20 gallon in tack and essentially use it as a sump for the 29 gallon, that would be a different story. Then the cycled 20 would be able to process the nitrogenous waste from the 29 gallon. Eventually the 29 gallon would be fully seeded and could be cut off from the 20 gallon, but at that point it would be wise to feed lightly and slowly increase so the bacterial colonies could compensate for the loss of the 20 gallon sump.
I wouldn't worry about the clowns overfeeding the BTA. Since it's bleached, the food will encourage zooxanthellae growth and provide nutrition that the zooxanthellae would otherwise be providing. It's important that the food items are small. The anemone can digest the food with less effort and obtain the most nutrition.
Different opinions on transferring from your current setup to a new tank. But generally speaking, some cycle will occur if you use your current sand and LR. The process of shaking everything up will disrupt the nitrogen cycle and, in turn, result in a cycle, albeit a small one. If you could leave your 20 gallon in tack and essentially use it as a sump for the 29 gallon, that would be a different story. Then the cycled 20 would be able to process the nitrogenous waste from the 29 gallon. Eventually the 29 gallon would be fully seeded and could be cut off from the 20 gallon, but at that point it would be wise to feed lightly and slowly increase so the bacterial colonies could compensate for the loss of the 20 gallon sump.
OrionN
Moved on
Why just one gallon change. I do a 10 gallon change once a week for 2 or three weeks and your high nitrate problem is solved. Make sure you age the new salt water for at least 1 day and the salinity match. Keep the temperature nearly the same will also help keep the animals from stress due to water change. Large water change is the way to remove waste. Sometime I do all the water change like 80-90% water change. As long as you mixed the water more than 24 hrs in advance and keep salinity and temperature the same, it should be fine.
OrionN
Moved on
If there is no significant coral in the tank, supplement is not needed. Anemone is mostly water so do not feed the anemone that much. Over feed the anemone is very detrimental to it, especially not totally well anemone like yours. At the most you should feed an anemone the size of yours about 1 cc of food every 4-5 days.
Don't add any new live rock to the tank unless it is completely cure.
Don't add salt to the tank to raise salinity. Rather, top off with salt water and let evaporation bring up the salinity until it reach the point you want.
Your tank is fine for your anemone right now. I would not want to move him into a new tank. Your clowns feed the anemone because you give them too much food. You should feed your clown less, this will help with the nitrates. There should be no food left after a minute or two after you add food into the tank. If you still see food blowing around or pellet sink to the bottom, that is where you nitrate problem come from. What do you feed your tank?
do not over feed this will stress and kill him just feed the clowns and they will feed him.if they dont just feed him alittle every day a piece or pieces the size of his mouth once a day he looks not to be unhappy just bleached keep up the good work also amke sure ph salinity and temp of new water is the same b4 adding it.youre nitrates were high right just do 5 percent a day till nitrate has gone down keep water healthy and he will.recolour
Johnathanb
New member
I feed the maroons with Fomula Two Marine Pellets, I will cut down on the feeding. I do take precautions before my water changes, just didnt know about the 24 hours in advance before adding the new water. As for the 10 gallon change, could it be possible to just do a 1 gallon change a day? Everyones help and inputs are very helpful, thank you.
Thanks For The Help
Thanks For The Help
OrionN
Moved on
If you do 50% water change you remove 50% of the wastes. Two 25% changes you remove 43.75% of the wastes (1/4(100%) +1/4(75%)) and so on and so on. The larger the water change at one time is more effective the removal of wastes and replenishing trace elements.
One 10 gallon change is a lot more effective and quicker than ten 1 gallon changes. Keep in mind that with large water changes you really need to age the water and keep salinity the same. Temperature can be a little warmer but the closer match the better. Newly mix water is deadly to the animals and poorly match water can stress them out.
Consider train and feed the fish with flakes. I mixed the flakes and frozen food in a cup with tank water then add it into the tank. This way the flake does not float on the surface end end up in the overfloat to the sump. The food just fly every which way and all the fish get their fair share.
One 10 gallon change is a lot more effective and quicker than ten 1 gallon changes. Keep in mind that with large water changes you really need to age the water and keep salinity the same. Temperature can be a little warmer but the closer match the better. Newly mix water is deadly to the animals and poorly match water can stress them out.
Consider train and feed the fish with flakes. I mixed the flakes and frozen food in a cup with tank water then add it into the tank. This way the flake does not float on the surface end end up in the overfloat to the sump. The food just fly every which way and all the fish get their fair share.
