Anemone Is starving!

Oh yeah, forgot to mention nems can go a LONG time w/out food, but as long as they get good light.
Good point Jef4y
 
Flower nems are like any other. They move when they feel like it. There are no guarantees in anything.

One thing you might try for feeding would be a small piece of silverside soaked in garlic.

Additionally, there are people who *NEVER* feed their aneomnes and they pick up plenty of food in the water column. Granted, people do some weird stuff, but I'm curious as to how the flower appears to you. Does it look distressed? Shrinking? anything else? If not, then feeding isn't a huge issue for it.

The BTA on the other hand will move when unhappy. Just let it figure out where it wants to be, and get food to it whenever you can.

The anemone has been shrunk to about half size and has lost some color.

I am in the process of getting salt higher and Nitrates lower, right now
 
Flower nems are like any other. They move when they feel like it. There are no guarantees in anything.

Generally speaking, anemone's will not move just "when they feel like it". It is very disadvantageous to go hopping around the reef everyday. They will move when the conditions they are at are not optimal. More specifically, Foot, flow, Food, Water chemistry, Light, and predetation. You need to look at all of these variables if your anemone is moving, and determine which one your species of anemone is most sensative to, and what you can do to make it happier.

I agree with the others, both of your anemones need much higher SG, and much more light in order for better long-term success rates.
 
They are all coralife. 2 10,000k and 2 actinics. No reflectors.

Wow, I never realized how low the wattage is on those coralife. I am not one for the whole "watts per gallon" thing, but those are not going to have the PAR you need. I would order some 54w bulbs as long as you have the 4 foot fixture. I usually get mine from reefgeek.com, but there are other places as well. 2 pure actinics is overkill and you lose par. I would look around on the forum for different bulb combinations that match the coloring you are looking for.
 
Ditch the actinics all together. You can use an aquablue plus to get the same color, but with significantly higher light output.
 
Ditch the actinics all together. You can use an aquablue plus to get the same color, but with significantly higher light output.

Yeah, and the ATI Blue Plus are nice bulbs too, but more blue. The question is whether you like the general 'daylight' coloring you have, or you want it to have a more muted background (blue) to let the colors pop more. 2 Actinics is too much IMO. They just have very little PAR and having 2 in a 4 bulb setup won't add anything.

I have been using 3 ATI Blue Plus, and 1 UVL White Actinic. I like the coloring, but decided I wanted a little more red. I am now changing to 1 aquablue, 2 blue plus, and 1 fiji purple plus. I figured I wanted a little more red. The bulbs arrive today.

What do you have or plan to have in your tank? That might help with the bulb decision. You will want to add only one new bulb a day (or every other day) when you get them anyway to prevent shock.

Can you take a full tank shot of your tank so we can get an idea of the coloring? I am guessing it is a little yellow for my taste.
 
1 aquablue, 2 blue plus, and 1 fiji purple plus.

That's the same color combo I ran on my 58 gallon tank and loved it. The fiji purple bulb was the best thing I ever did to my tank! I think I may have goofed up which is the "bluest" bulb, I get the names confused.
 
Actually, I'm not sure my fixtures will run any higher wattage

http://www.oceanicsystems.com/products/aqualight-t5-series---double-linear-strip.php

I can't find the specs on it but my buddy who traded them to me seems to think they top off at 28 watts

Hmm, I think you are right. Those are recommended for Fish Only tanks. There is also the Coralife Aqualight High Output T5's that can handle the 54w bulbs, but that doesn't look like what you have. There are many options better than the coralife setups if you decide to upgrade.
 
Interesting development. I noticed that when i come in to turn the lights on in the morning, the flower has its tentacles protruding much farther. So, I tried feeding it with the lights off and it is readily taking food! Once I turn the lights on it stretches out (I suppose in order to take in as much light as possible) and won't take food. It almost back to normal size, though, and it's color has improved.
 
Hey.... Just some friendly advice.... Use a refractometer to measure salt conc.... And preferably one w temp compensation if possible (they all might compensate for temp... I don't know)... Anyway... The reason I felt it nec to mention this, is because I used to use instant ocean hydrometers until Dan at Salty Critter brought the inaccuracy of those things to my attention.... I got a refractometer and found that when it read 1.025-1.026.... The instant ocean hydrometer would typically read above 1.030... My point?... Dan was right on.... If you are using a cheap hydrometer that relies on the buoyancy of a little plastic piece.... You could actually have that poor anemone in water that's more like 1.019 or possibly even less!!.... I have owned RTBA's and GTBA's for years, and they always loved SOME nitrates & phosphates..... No joke!..... When I switched the anemones from a poor maintenance tank, to an established reef with a phosban reactor.... Etc..... They hated it..... Yeh.... There are other variables, but I would focus on on your salt measuring equipment and make Aurelius not something simple before kickn your water parameters around. Hope this helps.-Nate
 
Just realized how my iPhone decided to insert it's own opinion in a few places..... If u see a word in my post that is weird and out of place.... I apologize..... It's one of my few iPhone frustrations..... Sorry
 
Back
Top