Anemone Problem

I would leave the anemone alone and make sure the clowns can't badger it--even if that means removing them temporarily until the anemone is settled.
 
Well I removed the anemone from the rock, my hospital tank is not 100% yet and I was afraid to put my clowns in there fearing they might die, the anemony is close to dead so I dont want to loose both of them.

I removed it and placed it on the sand and put a plastic container over it ..... this will keep the clowns out ... is it ok on the sand or does it need a rock ?



anemo.jpg
[/IMG]
 
That would be OK, just maybe put a small rock in when you can, and if he attaches you could move him when better.
Seriously, best to leave alone as much as possible.
Nems can go a long time w/ out food, in fact when I first got mine I had no idea about spot feeding.
My nems picked up a small amount of mysis for about a year and a half.
LIGHT is their main source of energy more than food IMO
 
I was having the same problem with my gbta in my 29 gal under P.C. light, switched to a Coral life 96 watt t-5 about 4 months ago and my anenome just split into two. I even can raise a clam
 
aww thats sad..I have lost my green anemone last july it was heartbreaking to see it go. At that time I wasn't able to figure out why it died but now I think I know the reason why. It is because of the hydrometer I was using. I didn't believe or know at the time that you need to buy a new one every 6 months. The old one was reading 1.025 SG and the new one said 1.018. BTA's can't handle that low of SG. I lost my beautiful gbta because of low salinity. Some times I bet the hydrometer needs to be replaced sooner than six months. I lost my BTA because of this darn thing I don't trust hydrometers anymore. What are you using to test your SG a hydrometer or refractometer?
 
It seems the more expensive, large floating hydrometers are likely the most accurate way to measure the specific gravity. Tropic Marin makes one and it's between $15 and $20. Ideally the specific gravity would approach that of natural seawater, 1.025, or slightly higher for anemones originating from the Red Sea (1.028).
 
Go with a refractometer.

I use to use a hydrometer and I mixed my salt so that is would read 1.025 and made sure my tanks read 1.025. Well on the day I got my refractometer I first checked both my tanks' salinity with the hydrometer. They both read 1.025. Then I used the refractometer to check it and the first tank said 1.025 and I thought to myself Wow the hydrometer was accurate then I checked my other tank and the refractometer read 1.022 when the hydrometer read 1.025. Sooo I will never use a hydrometer again.
 
Please research extensively, the animals you want to buy and you will not have to do this type of thing as much. I had to learn the hard way as well. It does pay to research. Hope that helps.
 
Lance, often times refractometers need to be recalibrated with a fluid that is 35ppt. If you use purified water to calibrate it, you will likely be off from the actual salinity. Pinpoint Calibration Fluid is at 35ppt and you can find it online for 4 or 5 dollars. My guess is that your hydrometer might be more accurate in this case than the refractometer.
 
Back
Top