Another 225 Tank Project!

[Foster]

For the top off - the 2 floats switches are adjusted like so:

The bottom float switch is at the lowest I want my water level in my sump when the surge tank is full (ready to surge)

The top float is adjusted to the fullest I ever want my water level in the sump..... when the surge tank is empty ( just surged)

With the use of a latching circuit relay, the solenoid opens when both floats are in the hangin position ( the lowest I want my water level in the sump with full surge) The solenoid will close that both floats are in the up position ( the water line in the sump is at the highest I ever want it...with the surge empty)

Did that make sence..... it is dificult to explain with out pics and I want have it back to gether for another week or so.

I was checking out your website.... very nice work!

You should start a thread in the DIY forum, you will get alot of feedback! I have some email me the link of you thread if/when you create one!

 

[birdman204]

of course it makes sense. It also seems that one set to the lowest point would accomplish the same thing , but may not have the failsafe of the 2nd switch, say if a sump critter were to use the float as , a perch ? :lol:

 

[Foster]

With just one float the solenoid would open and close everytime the surge went off, or with ever ripple of the water.

<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/autotop3.jpg>

 

[birdman204]

I meant set it at the absolute lowest. When the water is low though, even a ripple would set that one off right?

 

[Foster]

......right.........but the solenoid would not close until the top float was in the up position, perhaps after making 20 gallons (or what ever I want to set it to) as opposed to closing just after the bottom float is in the up position, perhaps after a couple of gallons on new water is added.

While this setup would work with one float switch, it would constantly be going on and off....it clicks every time it turns on and off and becomes annoying.

 

[www.180gallontank.co]

Where can I buy all the stuff needed to build that top-of system? And what are the parts I need. As you can probably tell I canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t build anything that involves a current. Everything else I can build.

 

[Foster]

Here are the parts:

From www.mcmaster.com

LATCHING RELAY:
#69585K45 relay, DPDT, 12vdc coil, $7.26
#7122K22 matching socket for relay, $5.35

SOLENOID:
Polypropylene solenoid- Part 7877K53, for $18.12 each

And a couple of float switches from http://www.floatswitches.net/

You will also need a regular power cord (like off a lamp of something) and you will need a 12V ac adapter.

The schematic is on my web site.

 

[Foster]

Here is the thread for it too....
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=280291

 

[gbtower]

For the top off - the 2 floats switches are adjusted like so:
The top float is adjusted to the fullest I ever want my water level in the sump..... when the surge tank is empty ( just surged)

Just double checking... in your case, the float itself is not marking the high water point, because that point will usually be slightly above the float. Say it's topping off and the surge tank is filling at the same time, so the level in the sump is not really moving up. Depending on the timings, the topoff may fill to the top float right before a surge starts, which would fill the sump somewhere above the float. Is that correct?

 

[Foster]

Kinda -

The surge fills at a rate of 600 GPH, the top off fills at a rate of 50 GPD. The refill rate is nowhere near the speed of the surge pump rate.

It takes the surge pump 5 mins to fill the surge tank, it would take the top off unit 24 hours to fill the 50 gallon surge tank.

 

[Mikeydog]

180gallon: Here is another thread that I create using ideas and information from platapus. I not very good and this stuff so it is a real step by step setup.. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=309128

 

[Foster]

03/30/04 - Jacks / Top-Off: Making progress, I finally got the floor supports installed, I also pulled the conduit for the dedicated breakers while I was under the house. Additionally, I drilled through the exterior wall and installed the plumbing for the conduit, drain, and water inlet. All the work to the house is done, now I can focus on reassembling the tank and getting in ready for water. Today I was able to install part of the top-off unit as well as the RO/DI plus some of the plumbing for it.

<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/jacks1.jpg>

<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/jacks2.jpg>

<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/assemb1.jpg>

<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/assemb2.jpg>

<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/assemb3.jpg>

 

[CMSACD]

I see icky spider webs!

 

[murfman]

man he is way too neat!!!!!

 

[Lunchbucket]

murfman - yeah WAY too neat...i feel pretty GHETTO now

Lunchbucket

 

[murfman]

shoot, check out my gallery pix and see how ghetto i am!

 

[murfman]

sad thing is, my neighbor is a union electrician too ;-)

 

[jeffbrig]

Great job, awesome setup platapus! I seriously look forward to doing something like this one day....

Here are the parts:
And a couple of float switches from http://www.floatswitches.net/

At only $6 each, I would put 2 or 3 float switches at the upper water level and wire up a circuit so the solenoid will be closed if ANY of them float. Backup, backup, backup.....

Jeff

 

[www.180gallontank.co]

Hey Platapus,

What did you spray on the inside of your stand? I like that Spackel stuff.

 

[Foster]

man he is way too neat!!!!!

Sign of a sick mind

Great job, awesome setup platapus! I seriously look forward to doing something like this one day....

At only $6 each, I would put 2 or 3 float switches at the upper water level and wire up a circuit so the solenoid will be closed if ANY of them float. Backup, backup, backup.....

Jeff

Thanks Jeff! I will go back once everything is setup and working and add a failsafe to the auto top off.

Hey Platapus,

What did you spray on the inside of your stand? I like that Spackel stuff.

What else you gong to finish raw plywood in ......

The accents Texture paint: http://www.cornerhardware.com/productdisplay.pl?item_id=266205&AID=10283904&PID=1202152

I pain the plywood first, but it looked to hookie, so I went with this texture paint which work out very well. You will want to use a clear sealer on it though.

ps - were are the pics of your stand?