(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

Cool, I must have missed that in your earlier post. Can you tell me where to get the octagonal lenses :)

Do I hit reply? Do I hit reply? Do I hit reply? Do I hit reply?
 
Great thread! Thank you guys for building and answering so many questions. I appologize if you have already answered a similiar question. I am also in the process of setting up a frag tank 48"x24"x11 inches deep. I think I have the courage now, do to this thread, to start an LED build. So it's a frag tank and I want max growth and color but need to minimize cost. ( don't recomend PC's ha) If I only need good PAR down 11" how far apart could I place the LEDS and still get the coverage, color and PAR I need. Could you place the LED's 6" apart on a row? That way each row would only need 7 LED's. Then place the rows 6" apart. This would only require 3 rows to light my Frag tank. Row 1 and row 3 would have the first light 6" from the end, then every 6 inches. Row 2 the first bulb would start at 9" from the end then the next bulb 6" down and so on.... Wish I could draw this out... I would not use any optics to get maximum spread of light. Just thought maybe I could get by with a lot less LED's since I only need coverage down 11 inches. Does this sound reasonable, or are they way to far apart? Also thought I could dim row one for zoas, and turn up row 3 for SPS. Your thoughts and recommendations are appreciated.

Glazner, you have a similar setup with snapple?

Glazner, here's my quickie for you...

Glazner01.jpg


Look at the pattern... I think it can work... but not sure about growth? you can always try this approach... and just add another rail in the future.

Glazner02.jpg


Hope this helps.
 
Cool, I must have missed that in your earlier post. Can you tell me where to get the octagonal lenses :)

Do I hit reply? Do I hit reply? Do I hit reply? Do I hit reply?

Fishman... hahaha youre funny... I just used it so we can differentiate the white 80 deg to blue 60 deg...
 
Thank You. would you sugest alternating white blue LED's on a row? This would be 1 to 1, or wbbwbbw or alternating rows. blue row, white row, blue row... Again, thanks for your help. I think part of this is just trial and error? For this kind of setup do you see the need to order any optics?
 
I made a mistake... those images are using 18 LEDs... it should be 8 per rail... it might work... I would go with 1:1 since this is not a display tank... and since you are opting for growth???

Im just worried about the 80 deg not reaching each other per rail... but that will change on 8 per rail instead of 6 LEDs. If you dont alternate, then you will have spotlighting since your blue at the back will not reach the blue on the front... thus you will have a row on your sand without blue... You can fix this by raising it up a little...

I will update the images...

Also, I really prefer optics... snapple got hold of 80deg somewhere... maybe you should too... theres a lot of wasted light i believe if we dont use optics... UNLESS, your LEDs have a builtin 90 degree spread on it similar to Steve's LEDs....

OK DONE, IMAGE HAS BEEN CHANGE TO 8 LEDs...

The blues needs to be on 80 degs too, if you can find one... so much the better.... the spread does not meet each other... worried on this part... Also this does not include the bar support in the middle of the tank... if theres any....
 
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Wiring Question

Wiring Question

I have a question about wiring meanwell drivers and I thought I would ask here.
I have 6 strings of 12 leds on the 48d drivers. Can I wire multiple drivers to 1 ac cord? If so how many? I was thinking of wiring the 3 royal blue drivers to one cord and the 3 CW drivers to another cord. Also can I do the same on the dimming wires? Pretty sure I can with the dimming wires but definitely not sure about the AC side. Thanks
 
Yes you can on the ac side. just make sure you follow or bind the same color wires (blue to blue and brown to brown). This is also useful when you want to use simple intermatic timers where white is one timer and blue is another.

Diagram here...
 
I have a question about wiring meanwell drivers and I thought I would ask here.
I have 6 strings of 12 leds on the 48d drivers. Can I wire multiple drivers to 1 ac cord? If so how many? I was thinking of wiring the 3 royal blue drivers to one cord and the 3 CW drivers to another cord. Also can I do the same on the dimming wires? Pretty sure I can with the dimming wires but definitely not sure about the AC side. Thanks

Yep. I have all 6 of mine wired to the same AC cord using terminal blocks like so...
SDC12119.jpg


I also have the dimmer side wires to terminal blocks and connected to the same 9V plung until I get the controlled unit installed.
 
Yep. I have all 6 of mine wired to the same AC cord using terminal blocks like so...
SDC12119.jpg


I also have the dimmer side wires to terminal blocks and connected to the same 9V plung until I get the controlled unit installed.

I have another question on the wiring of the terminal blocks. Are you connecting the wires to one side of the block and then using jumper wires on the other side? I assume thats the theory but I have never used these so I want to make sure I do it correctly.
 
So I am wrestling a bit w/an actinic supplementation problem and have been thinking of trying LED. I run 3 400w halides, 20K on the sides and 10K in the middle. I run the 10K in the middle for extra par because I have an old oceanic tank that has glass bracing covering the middle of the tank. I don't need extra par, per se, just some royal blue to tone down the color of the 10K. Problem is, I have a floating canopy that sits 12-15 in off the water surface. Do you guys think I will get enough punch from these to offset the white of the 400 w 10K? Sorry for the pseudo thread jack.
 
Looks like he used one side for jumpers. You can also get jumpers special made for the terminal block, that make it looka little neater. Basically a piece of metal bent to go over the seperators that stick up.

12-5 inches is no problem use a 60-80 degree lense to help with penetration.
 
I have another question on the wiring of the terminal blocks. Are you connecting the wires to one side of the block and then using jumper wires on the other side? I assume thats the theory but I have never used these so I want to make sure I do it correctly.

You are correct sir

Looks like he used one side for jumpers. You can also get jumpers special made for the terminal block, that make it looka little neater. Basically a piece of metal bent to go over the seperators that stick up.

Was was not able to find the metal jumpers for the terminal blocks I used, but I was also able to easily cut to them to the number of terminals I needed. The proper number of terminals appealed more to me than metal jumpers. Thus, WISIWYG.
Either way the system has been running perfectly for 2 months now.:beer:
 
So a quick question on the 9V wall-wart. After adjusting the internal POT meanwell to ~700mA, do I still need the wall-wart plug in? or done with it? I am not planning to dim it and run it at 700mA as I am planning to get an ALC soon
 
Meanwell must have power on the DIM +/- otherwise they think you ant off. So if I understand Yes you still need the wall-wart.

Oh...another question is, I have this wall-wart running around 9.6-9.7V constantly with no load on it. Do you think it's good to use?
 
You will need to run the dc power supply on the dimmer side until you get the controller. The controller will then replace the 9V power supply. Also, I am only running my drivers at 550 mA or so. I don't notice a huge difference in the output for 550 to 700 mA. You just want to avoid more than 700 mA for maximum life. once you get them set at the maximum level, you can use the pot to adjust the power ration between colors to get the color balance you like.
 
You will need to run the dc power supply on the dimmer side until you get the controller. The controller will then replace the 9V power supply. Also, I am only running my drivers at 550 mA or so. I don't notice a huge difference in the output for 550 to 700 mA. You just want to avoid more than 700 mA for maximum life. once you get them set at the maximum level, you can use the pot to adjust the power ration between colors to get the color balance you like.

Have you measured the PAR different between 550ma and 700ma? I am just curious.
Btw, very nice build!:thumbsup:
 
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