(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design
- Thread starter katchupoy
- Start date
daveonbass
New member
is it not possible to just turn down the driver's trim pot (as seen earlier in this thread). AND, you could lower the ac/dc converter out put?
maybe I'm crazy, after all I haven't tried any of this yet.
maybe I'm crazy, after all I haven't tried any of this yet.
TheFishMan65
New member
Dave - meanwells a very common driver has a limit on the voltage. It can't go low enough for 3 LEDs.
Every 2-3 inches is common.
What driver are you using that only supports 8 LEDs?
Every 2-3 inches is common.
What driver are you using that only supports 8 LEDs?
Mean well ELN 60-40-P.
I am going to go with this whole kit.
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-36/12-Premium-LED-DIY/Detail
I am going to go with this whole kit.
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-36/12-Premium-LED-DIY/Detail
TheFishMan65
New member
that will drive 12 LEDs. if you want them. It is pulse with modulated so that you can't hook it up to most commercial reef controllers as easily. Which lenses are you getting?
TheFishMan65
New member
No expert on the reefkeepr, but most commercial controllers need the D model.
1Snapple,
12 LEDs over a 3 gallon tank seems a bit over kill to me. You can run the non adjustable driver that's only 18 bucks, and do like 4 LEDs. Based on what I've read, the 12 LEDs would be around a 250 watt halide. You also want to run your driver at a min of 50% to get the most out of it. Any lower and the efficiency goes down pretty fast.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
12 LEDs over a 3 gallon tank seems a bit over kill to me. You can run the non adjustable driver that's only 18 bucks, and do like 4 LEDs. Based on what I've read, the 12 LEDs would be around a 250 watt halide. You also want to run your driver at a min of 50% to get the most out of it. Any lower and the efficiency goes down pretty fast.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
daveonbass
New member
the only issue I would have with that is that you would be dimming them all at the same ratio. so you would want to REALLY make sure you have your blue to white ratio just how you want it. I think 50:50 would be to white, and a good 3:1 ratio would be better. maybe 9 like this:
B B B
WWW
B B B
and then dim them all at once on the one driver. But again, I really think you need to understand that this is a LOT of light for a small 3 gallon pico. one 5 LED Evil66 PAR38 bulb would probably be TOO much light...and the RapidLED 7 LED PAR38 bulb would be better BLUE colors, but still way overkill. So if you must have dimming on your LEDs and want to DIY it...I would say to be sure to raise the lights up high (min 12" from surface) and acclimate very slowly.
I'm just curious as to what you plan on putting in there. It's 3 gallons, and you want to blast it with light that is comprable to 250W+ of MH. it's gonna be a pain to keep SPS in water with that much variability, Sofites and LPS will not need that much light, Zoas and Shrooms will be ok in the water but again the light is way over kill.
Again...I'm not trying to dis-swade you...I'm just curious.
B B B
WWW
B B B
and then dim them all at once on the one driver. But again, I really think you need to understand that this is a LOT of light for a small 3 gallon pico. one 5 LED Evil66 PAR38 bulb would probably be TOO much light...and the RapidLED 7 LED PAR38 bulb would be better BLUE colors, but still way overkill. So if you must have dimming on your LEDs and want to DIY it...I would say to be sure to raise the lights up high (min 12" from surface) and acclimate very slowly.
I'm just curious as to what you plan on putting in there. It's 3 gallons, and you want to blast it with light that is comprable to 250W+ of MH. it's gonna be a pain to keep SPS in water with that much variability, Sofites and LPS will not need that much light, Zoas and Shrooms will be ok in the water but again the light is way over kill.
Again...I'm not trying to dis-swade you...I'm just curious.
TheFishMan65
New member
Where is the reference for 12 LEDs being equivalent to 250MH? I have seen several that said about 72 watts of LEDs is equivalent to a 250MH. So if you ran at 3 watts that would be 24.
TheFishMan65
New member
I this is an older article (2006)Product Review: A New Horizon in Lighting: PFO's Solaris LED System
At the time 25 3watt LEDs (did solaris run them at a full 3 watts - anyone?) or 75 watts of LEDs produced 89% of the par as a MH - it would have been nice if there pictures where the same scale.
Anyone have any later data?
At the time 25 3watt LEDs (did solaris run them at a full 3 watts - anyone?) or 75 watts of LEDs produced 89% of the par as a MH - it would have been nice if there pictures where the same scale.
Anyone have any later data?
well dave i want it for SPS and to see how awesome my tank will be being bluer then the white it is now. I have tons of zoas, no LPS, and 1 SPS and all seem happy and healthy, is it possible to get to much light for zoas?
And with the zoas algea won't more light make they grow faster?
And with the zoas algea won't more light make they grow faster?
IMO yes, you can have too much light for zoas. When I switched from PC to halide, I took my time to get everything use to the increase in light. Even then, my zoas migrated lower in the tank. I didn't think they could move?? Mine did. Or they slowly withered away in the high light and grew new polyps down lower. Either way, they didn't grow in the high light.
I think your kinda doomed, in the way that an LED light will cost you way more then it should for this 3 gallon tank. That is if you want dimming. For this build, you might want to look into the 1 watt LEDs??
daveonbass
New member
yes, you can have too much light for zoas. My ATI Powermodule melts almost any zoas I put in there, and that's just a T5. I fully admit to NOT having a reference on the LEDs being equivlent to 250w MH, but I do know that many with the AI module claim that if low enoug to the surface it's similar to a 400w MH, and with this we ar talking about 12 leds over a tiny 3 gallons! That's a ton of light. And again, if all you want is zoas...then by all means use a cheaper and just as efficient light on it. Or do 1watt LEDs like mentioned before. Lastly, the SPS...its not long term ideal to keep that in a 3g tank. Unless that 3g was plumbed to a larger system, the tanks params are sure to fluctuate to much to keep it happy long term. Thought the light would be intense enough.
okay..... well dang it. On the set i am looking at on Rapidled are 6 Cool White Cree Q5 XR-E LEDs and 6 Royal Blue Cree XR-E LEDs
If i use the 6 RB and 3 CW would i get 13-16k lighting? and zoas dissolve? It would kill them even with acclimation and I currently have an SPS in the tank and it looks good.
If i use the 6 RB and 3 CW would i get 13-16k lighting? and zoas dissolve? It would kill them even with acclimation and I currently have an SPS in the tank and it looks good.
