(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

[reeferdale]

Cree XP Series on a 72 x 36?

Cree XP Series on a 72 x 36?

Don't mean to jump off track here, I love this build. I am ready to go on my LED build and I have a 72 x 36 area to cover (270 gal).

I am going to use the XP series white and RB - originally I was going to use 144 LEDs but now I am think of starting eith 96 and seeing what it looks like. Becasue of the 'extra' 6 inches in width (36" instead of 24" or 30"), I am looking for some feedback on how many LEDs others would use to cover an area like this? I am thinking I need to build either 60" long U channels and hang about 10 of them 2" apart or build 4 or 5 8" x 20" heat sinks with a 6 x 6 LED pattern and mount them into a grid.

Anyone have some input?

Thanks

 

[TheFishMan65]

What do you have in your tank and locations? 98 is really low. Some would say you need twice that many. Are you willing to spot light areas? Then you might be able to do 96.

 

[katchupoy]

REEFERDALE,

if going for 96, then maybe you can do 4x24???

60" channels, 2.5" apart, 24 LEDs per rail... x 4... (2 drivers per rail)
thats a total of 8 drivers? maybe look for a higher voltage driver? just be extra careful.
spacing between rails, varies...

Then simply add up if its not enough.

 

[reeferdale]

LEDs per channnel

LEDs per channnel

Part of the issue I am having is balancing the drivers with the LEDs per channel I have been looking at some Thomas research drivers that will allow me to support more LEDs per series string. I also have thought about using 10 of the meanwell drivers and running bout 120 LEDs

I think I am going to need to "cover" at least a 60 x 30 area - that would leave a 6" area around the perimeter of the tank that would not have any LEDs directly above, which is OK, but I think I am going to need about 10 rails
so that would put my LED count up to 240! that seems like an awful lot of LEDs

I have mostly SPS (acan/chalice/monti) - but also acans/brains and zoas too.

What do you mean by being extra careful? what do you think the max spacing per rail might be. I am figuring most of my softies/LPS will be towrds the front and I could space the channels farther apart and make then closer toghether towards the back where most of my rockwork and SPS will be.

Thanks

REEFERDALE,

if going for 96, then maybe you can do 4x24???

60" channels, 2.5" apart, 24 LEDs per rail... x 4... (2 drivers per rail)
thats a total of 8 drivers? maybe look for a higher voltage driver? just be extra careful.
spacing between rails, varies...

Then simply add up if its not enough.

 

[reeferdale]

200 LEDs

200 LEDs

I have it all - my SPS (Acro/Chalice/Monti) will be towards the back on taller rock work. LPS/softies/shrooms towards the front. Seems like 200+ LEDs would be a lot, but I agree that 96 seems low. I need a place to start though and I could do this (96) with 2 kits. I would rather not try to spot light areas casue then I am limited on moving things later. But I also do not need to have universal coverage either. I would like some areas brighter than others - that is why I am thinking of spacing the channel farther apart towards the front.

I figured I could design them to add another 48 LED kit f I need it. I just hate to build with 200+ LEDs and find that I really do not need that many

What do you have in your tank and locations? 98 is really low. Some would say you need twice that many. Are you willing to spot light areas? Then you might be able to do 96.

 

[TheFishMan65]

For 96 LEDs check the cutter site. It maybe worth ordering from multiple places. It can be confusing products (tab)->Cree LEDs->Cree on PCB->20mm->star.

 

[katchupoy]

that would leave a 6" area around the perimeter of the tank

This is ok, 6" is ok...

What do you mean by being extra careful?

Going with higher voltage driver present higher risk of electrocution... 48V is the borderline, anything higher needs really extra care. This is also true why NEC does not allow you to have solar panel/s voltage higher than 48V on homes. Same with inverters...

what do you think the max spacing per rail might be. I am figuring most of my softies/LPS will be towrds the front and I could space the channels farther apart and make then closer toghether towards the back where most of my rockwork and SPS will be.
Thanks

2.5" and greater between LEDs.
just air gap between rails is enough... 0.5" maybe???

 

[katchupoy]

Here are my 2 cents... please pay special attention on the overlap of circles...

4x24
I believe that the overlap between LEDs is too much...
And the overlap between RAILs is not that great...

what if???


5x19
Better spread???

 

[TheFishMan65]

Your mean Who is going to do 95 LEDs. 96 OK, but 95. How would 6x16 be? Most of driver are set up for 6 or 12 so I always try and recommend in groups of 12.

 

[katchupoy]

Your mean Who is going to do 95 LEDs. 96 OK, but 95. How would 6x16 be? Most of driver are set up for 6 or 12 so I always try and recommend in groups of 12.

Dont meant to be mean... but just throwing out ideas... 16x6 is perfect but when i drew it, its too far apart...
5x20 is also good... but i need to divide it by three... because of the 2 tank support brace on the top.... maybe 7 6 7? or 6 8 6?
5x19 is equal to 6 7 6... thats why i ended up with 19...
5x16 is equal to 5 6 5...???


Most of the driver... yes you are correct... But i was hoping, since there are so many drivers popping up right now specially thomas... maybe you are no longer limited to 12 LEDs etc...

but what if reeferdale did an island approach... I mean if hes doing the bulky heatsink approach, he will do it anyway...
what if 3 groups of light spaced far apart from each other....

.........||||||...........||||||..........||||||..........

???

 

[2hi4u2c]

Katchupoy, are you still looking for a PAR meter? I figure USPS express flat rate box insured for $400 would be less than $10. As long as the turn-around time back to me isn't to great, I'd get it over to you.

 

[TheFishMan65]

That is because I meant 6x18

PAR meter: I bought just the sensor from apogee and hook it up to my multimeter. I compared the sensor and multimeter to out club meter and was with in 10% (which could be the difference in sensor types). I think it was about $150. I am helping enough people with these I figured it was worth the investment, plus I will need it later as the LEDs age.

 

[katchupoy]

Katchupoy, are you still looking for a PAR meter? I figure USPS express flat rate box insured for $400 would be less than $10. As long as the turn-around time back to me isn't to great, I'd get it over to you.

Are you serious? Lets do it... I will take good care of it.. and turn around time? you decide... pm me for details and how I can paypal you the shipping and rent or deposit or what ever... let me know.

 

[shikhyung]

Sorry for interupt, my tank is 60x30Wx24H, I plan to do 7 leds in a string (for the 30"Width).
Would it be efficientcy to do 3" center-center then also spread out 18 strings with 3" apart? Ratio would be 6XPG-White and 12XPE-RB

I also using 60 degree lense and 9-12" hight from the water surface level.

Thanks.

 

[TheFishMan65]

That sounds very doable if your driver will be ok with 7 LEDs.

 

[katchupoy]

Sorry for interupt, my tank is 60x30Wx24H, I plan to do 7 leds in a string (for the 30"Width).
Would it be efficientcy to do 3" center-center then also spread out 18 strings with 3" apart? Ratio would be 6XPG-White and 12XPE-RB

I also using 60 degree lense and 9-12" hight from the water surface level.

Thanks.

why go perpendicular? why 30" and not use the 60" lenght?

 

[TheFishMan65]

Less aluminum would be my guess.

7 * 60 = 420
18 * 30 = 540

Oh look I am wrong, but maybe he has access to cheap aluminum in short lengths.

or if you buy 8 foot lengths you need 6 for 18 pieces at 30 inches, but 7 for 60 inches so maybe I was right the first time.

 

[shikhyung]

1-Fisherman, that is your driver board.
2-I don't plan to go all 30", but 21" the whole frame=24", also save aluminum like fisherman said. Over here, they go with 16' long, not 8'.
3-I would be doing 1 color per string, I could add more string that way easy,spacing 2.5" string apart instead of 3", also easy to wiring.

would it be OK with 4" in the back, and 5" in front?

 

[TheFishMan65]

I am not sure you will make 7 XP-E off the CAT4101. You probably won't be able to reach the maximum current maybe 700 for XP-E and 1300 for the XP-G. If that is enough then go ahead and try it.

Yes aluminum is expensive - save it where you can.

Leaving the front and back darkish should not be a problem - it all depends on coral placement.

 

[eohlin]

So...did I read correctly, in post 491, that a fellow member is offering to lend katchupoy a PAR meter??

I for one am looking forward to seeing your readings! Getting ready to build a similar setup for my 75g mixed reef.

Hey 2hi4u2c...I'm sure I speak for may on this thread... appreciate your willingness to share!!

Looking forward to those numbers!!

eric