(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

Hi katchupoy,

I'm in the process of building this LED fixture for my 26" x 24" x 20" deep tank.
Going with 20 Cree XP-E Royal Blues, 12 XP-G Cool Whites and 4 XP-G Natural Whites all with 70 degree lenses. The light will be 10" above the water.
Need your input on the below pictured layout.

lightfixture.jpg


Will this white to blue ratio to give me that 14k look and will 10" height above water give me a good coverage?

Thanks and regards
 
I wouldn't worry about the 14k look... If you are even close to 2:1 RB and CW then you are good.... You can always fine tune it with a dimmable driver.

What Im worried about is the close proximity of the emitters with each other. I rather you add the strips and move/spread the emitters on the strips.. the more strips the better it will handle heat.

remember, I have 12 LEDs on a 48" strip and the temp is around 100F (without fan). And you are planning on a 22" strip with the same number of emitters.... I suggest the closest you can do between emitters is 2.5".

Just my 2 cents
 
been tagging along and finally built a fixture over my 36x18x18. used 3/16 in 30x12 plate for led mounting and ran 42 satis leds and am very pleased with thier output. breaking in the corals they responded immediately. Seam to like it:eek1:
 
Here is the latest. I think I screwed my white balance for some reason its different than my previous images...

FULLSHOT_2011-07_CREE-LEDSX36.jpg

24 Royal Blues (100%) and 12 Cool Whites (70%).


The landscaping changed because of the move last April. I have a few of my corals and fish died during the move.
 
This is my favorite write up yet on LED builds. I just got my 75 gallon going and ordered the 24 pack combo non-dimmable. Cant wait

I wouldn't worry about the 14k look... If you are even close to 2:1 RB and CW then you are good.... You can always fine tune it with a dimmable driver.

What Im worried about is the close proximity of the emitters with each other. I rather you add the strips and move/spread the emitters on the strips.. the more strips the better it will handle heat.

remember, I have 12 LEDs on a 48" strip and the temp is around 100F (without fan). And you are planning on a 22" strip with the same number of emitters.... I suggest the closest you can do between emitters is 2.5".

Just my 2 cents

Great write up. I was wondering if I could put 24 LEDS (12/12 CW&RB) on one 48 inch strip. It will be homedepot 1x1 aluminum strip with NO fan. Im I asking for trouble? Mike
 
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Great write up. I was wondering if I could put 24 LEDS (12/12 CW&RB) on one 48 inch strip. It will be homedepot 1x1 aluminum strip with NO fan. Im I asking for trouble? Mike

I think you are but.. why put them all in one 48 inch... why not two 48 inch side by side together... with maybe 1/4" air space in between...

It will just eat 2 inch at the most of that space?
 
I just want to say that this is an amazing thread and i am glade i came across it. I right now have a 30" x 30" x 30" cube 120 gallons with a 400 watt electronic ballast and 150watt 03 actincs over my tank for lighting. i would like to get a better bang for my buck as my electric bill is killing me :( what DYI LED lighting system would you recommend for my current tank? it will be a SPS tank with anemones. how many white LEDs and how many blues and in what order should they go? I have a millon questions but for now i just want to get started. or should i just go and buy one made for thousands :)
many thanks and i am still reading this thread .
 
A little dated, but go to my home page and find the DIY summary.
You will probably need 60-75 LEDs in a mix of 4:1:1 royal blue, cool white, and neutral white. What do you want to keep?
 
What wattage consumption would it be for that many LEDS including the power supply and the controller plus fans?
Sounds like a lot of LEDS but after viewing your pictures they sure look nice.
Thank u again
 
72 three watt LEDs (you will probably run them less) is 216 watts. Figure 80% (just a guess) efficiency thenyou are around 260 watts. Maybe another 50 watts (large estimate) for fan and controller.
 
I doubt, but we won't know for sure until you remind us of your drivers.

Most driver tolerate a variety of voltages (100-240 depends on model) and still function. When they voltage get below the minimum unknown things will happen possibilities are shut downs, flicker, dimming or even damage to the driver.
 
Mean Well LPC-60-1050 constant current driver:

1050mA constant current
9-48V
115-230V AC input
Epoxy encapsulated case
Short circuit / Over voltage / Over current protection
100% full burn-in test
50,000 hour MTBF
18 month warranty
Mean Well LPC-60 Full Specifications

Thanks for quick reply. Think this will work with the dimmable outlet. What is the worst that can happen?

Mike
 
I am 90% sure it will NOT work. Worst that could happen is you could damage the LPC or start a fire (probably unlikely, but you asked for worst case). I know of no safe way to dim that down.
 
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