(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

Hi katchupoy. Thanks so much for the information here. I just build 2 strips with non dimmable drivers. I want to dim my CW's because they are super bright. Can I use an outlet dimmer like this one from home depot? Please explain for the electrically challenged.

Thanks, Mike

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
VpopViewer.html

You cannot. There is a built in transformer on the primary side (ac) and this cannot be dimmed like (incandescent bulbs). Solution?

1) raise the height of the strip??
2) remove some of the LEDs, since your driver can operate safely from 3 leds to 12...
3) buy a dimmable driver and sell your constant current driver.
4) buy additional LEDs (red, blue, UV, etc) and replace some of your whites...

Hope this helps.
 
You cannot. There is a built in transformer on the primary side (ac) and this cannot be dimmed like (incandescent bulbs). Solution?

1) raise the height of the strip??
2) remove some of the LEDs, since your driver can operate safely from 3 leds to 12...
3) buy a dimmable driver and sell your constant current driver.
4) buy additional LEDs (red, blue, UV, etc) and replace some of your whites...

Hope this helps.

Good advise. I think my best bet is to get the dimmable driver.

I dont believe I can replace the whites with (red, blue, UV, etc) on the driver I have. Is it possible to run them on Mean Well LPC-60-1050 constant current? 1050 may be too much.

I may just have to buy 12 more RBs like your set up. Hmmmm

I will be attaching strips to my t5 fixture front,back,and inside. not sure exactly what configuration yet. Therefore i will have t5's running to to wash out some white/yellow look.

Here is a pic of my creation so far
 

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You are correct that anything other than white cannot handle 1.050 amps (at least Cree wise). You could go parallel so each string gets .525 amps. The LEDs would run cooler and you would actually get more light - just what you need.
 
Good advise. I think my best bet is to get the dimmable driver.

I dont believe I can replace the whites with (red, blue, UV, etc) on the driver I have. Is it possible to run them on Mean Well LPC-60-1050 constant current? 1050 may be too much.

I may just have to buy 12 more RBs like your set up. Hmmmm

I will be attaching strips to my t5 fixture front,back,and inside. not sure exactly what configuration yet. Therefore i will have t5's running to to wash out some white/yellow look.

Here is a pic of my creation so far


the quickest solution right now that you can do is...

Options 2. But instead of removing them, put a jumper and skip some of the LEDs... Then when youre ready to buy, build, install the new set of blues, then remove the jumper wire...
 
Biggar,

I am confused. I thought you had all white now. And I think katchupoy is suggesting:
- taking some LEDs out of the string by placing a wire from the + to - on the same LED
- ordering some blue LEDs
- adding string of blue
- unshort the whites

If I have this right, it won't work. The blue (XP-E or XR-E) and whites (XP-G) will have different forward voltages. The white will hog the current and the blues will probably barely be on. You are going to have to make each string have the same number of blues and whites.
 
72 three watt LEDs (you will probably run them less) is 216 watts. Figure 80% (just a guess) efficiency thenyou are around 260 watts. Maybe another 50 watts (large estimate) for fan and controller.

thank you very much...can I ask one more favor as this will be my first build. Can you supply me with a parts list for this project and a vendor?
Many thanks
 
Biggar,

I am confused. I thought you had all white now. And I think katchupoy is suggesting:
- taking some LEDs out of the string by placing a wire from the + to - on the same LED
- ordering some blue LEDs
- adding string of blue
- unshort the whites

If I have this right, it won't work. The blue (XP-E or XR-E) and whites (XP-G) will have different forward voltages. The white will hog the current and the blues will probably barely be on. You are going to have to make each string have the same number of blues and whites.

I am confused too?

48 LEDs correct?
2 drivers correct?
Im assuming BLUE will be on a separate driver?
and white on a different one too?
 
Please, Biggar tell us what you have now. I read back and believe you have 2 drivers with 12 LEDs each, but if so the blues maybe in danger.

I generally like RapidLED, don't know if they are is in post 1 or not. And generally a I agree with katchupoy (sometimes he agrees with me). So if you can't find something in one of those two places ask for a supplier.
 
Ok. Thanks for your input. Right now im running 3 x 54 T5's. Two blues, one blue special. Im i big fan of blue look.

Recently I bought the DIY package that come with 12 royal blue and 12 cool whites. The cool white comes with a more powerful driver, which limits me in replacing to the stronger amp driver with other leds.

I have not installed the two strips I made yet. But I did notice the whites are super bright. I did one strip in blue 48" and one strip in white 48".

I was afraid that my tank will not have the blue look any longer.

here is my options for now:

1. I may only run my white LEDs when im mostly at work. 11-5pm So i dont see them much
2. Unhook a few to dim down white/yellow look
3. Buy a dimmer set up- more expensive than unhooking(jumper style)
4. Add another 12 blues to total 24 blue to 12 white
5. Play with my t-5's to get color I want.

We shall see, still need to install them! ( ;

thanks for your replies
 
Fishman. I dont want to buy too much as I see the LED world is changing so fast. I just want a nice supplement for now. 4 strips would be nice with the dimming option on a couple of the strips, especially the white ones ( ;

I have a 125 gallon im about to add a 6 ft strip of only RB's for the neon/blacklight look. The difference in coral color is unreal. Still have PC's on that tank.

I emailed Rapid LED about the amount of RB leds that can run on the 700ma driver. They said 14 max. So I may add 28 RB on a 72" strip. Its about $180 for LEDs and 15 for the 1 x 1 heatsink at home depot.

Do you know if I ran 14, would it take away from the power of the other 12. Or adding 2 more would be the same brightness?

Mike
 
Is it true at 75 LED watts = 275 Metal halide watts in par/brightness. AI's site compares it as such.
I think they compare certain area of the tank that the 40 degree optics are hitting. 40 degree optics compared to 80 can make a huge difference from what I understand.
happy reefing
 
Biggar, if it seems too yellow/white, I think your best bet would be to change out your aquablue special for s purple plus. Any time I try to add an aquablue special to my tank it washes everything out to a yellowish white, and this is coming from a setup with 5 blue plus bulbs...just one ABS washed all 5 blues out to a yellowish tint. I really thing that the purple plus is white enough for you to add that and like it regardless of the leds, and then use the leds for that RB pop and white for growth and shimmer.
 
Chilling, you lost me. Resistor for what? For the current sense resistor?

If so, no you can not use 100 ohm it must be very small.

Power used by a resistor is Watt = Voltage * Current = Resistance * current * current. So for one amp you would be burning 100 watts. But you would never get there since that would be a voltage (= resistance * current) of 100 volts. That size resistor would just cause the voltage to max out on your driver (and probably melt at 1/8 watt)
 
just wanted to connect to the string of led so i can tune the meanwell. so i only need 1ohm and how many watt do i need? 5w or 2w or it doesn't matter?
 
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