Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

I will check on the PAR meter. Most SPS is probably 10-12" from the water surface. I cannot lower my T5's without also lowering the MH's. I tried higher kelvin bulbs but it always looks like windex in my tank to me. I like whiter MH and use the 8- T5's to achieve my blues.

If you do not have one contact me. We can work out deal.
 
You don't know how much money I have put into my Trane unit to get my AC and heat to work. Much more than my energy cost. As a matter of fact last night I tested my Emergency heat to get my strips to come on and once again the contactor is bad and will have to be replaced again, three years in a row. At least on a Chevy Diesel Pickup you can change the serpentine belt without taking the front of the truck off. Or pulling the cab off to work on it.

Now back to the show. For me for large tanks unless you want to spend a bunch of money MH is still King! But on smaller tanks my BML fixtures work perfect with no issues moving frags from my 300 with MH into them. And as far as arguing which is better? After three years both LED and MH users have mellowed out a bunch, LED users are not calling MH users Dinosaurs, and MH people are not calling LED users preppies

Ahh, you're in Texas... Heat strips would be resistance heat, so it wouldn't matter much. Up here, resistance heat is very impractical. (Oh, and cost of maintenance/repairs has nothing to do with efficiency - that's reliability. :) ) I've a Trane system (hybrid heat pump/propane) and haven't had any problems with it in the 8 years I've had it. I don't run the AC though - we just open the windows.

LEDs vs. MH - agreed.
 
I have had better results with halides but leds are more versatile and don't draw the heat and electric bill, I guess that really depends on the size of the tank too, but for now will stick with leds and definitely more experimenting to get the corals to their full potential
 
yes you can order direct from hamilton and get the m80 ballasts too.

Unfortunately they don't carry these anymore, I called a while back.
M80 ballasts are really hard to come by these days. Bluewave was the last one to manufacture them I believe.
 
I've had good results with 70W metal halides over a 20long although they were underpowered for SPS.

I've had bad results with 3 different T5 systems.

I have marsaqua LED on a 30 breeder now. So far so good (only a few weeks).
 
Unfortunately they don't carry these anymore, I called a while back.
M80 ballasts are really hard to come by these days. Bluewave was the last one to manufacture them I believe.

Did you talk directly to Hamilton about that? I talked with them a month or so ago and they had M80 in stock. Their site says temporarily out of stock. Maybe something changed?
 
it was about a year or so ago, I think it was champion that told me that when I was trying to get them to run AB 13ks to spec
 
Hamilton still sells them. Even though they may be temporarily out of stock, that is a source of m80 ballast assembly brand new
 
Unfortunately they don't carry these anymore, I called a while back.
M80 ballasts are really hard to come by these days. Bluewave was the last one to manufacture them I believe.

We have not discontinued M80 ballasts and don't plan to. We are just sold out temporarily.

We have had a lot more demand on metal halides lately and on M80 ballasts in particular.

We should have them ready to go but not until sometime in mid January.

We do sell more Cebu Sun's with Hamilton 250 Watt 14K bulbs though and M58 ballasts are in stock and shipping.
 
We have not discontinued M80 ballasts and don't plan to. We are just sold out temporarily.

We have had a lot more demand on metal halides lately and on M80 ballasts in particular.

We should have them ready to go but not until sometime in mid January.

We do sell more Cebu Sun's with Hamilton 250 Watt 14K bulbs though and M58 ballasts are in stock and shipping.

Which ballast would be optimal for a 400 watt Radium?
 
Back
Top