Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

I do often wonder just what it is about lighting and powerheads, it's like politics or religion in this hobby. You don't see heated debates on which heater is best, or titanium vs glass. Those remain rather simple and civil. But a discussion about lighting or powerheads... those always turn into disasters. People choose their side, and then the mind gets closed off to anything else.
 
I do often wonder just what it is about lighting and powerheads, it's like politics or religion in this hobby. You don't see heated debates on which heater is best, or titanium vs glass. Those remain rather simple and civil. But a discussion about lighting or powerheads... those always turn into disasters. People choose their side, and then the mind gets closed off to anything else.

Titanium heaters are obviously better :rollface:
 
I do often wonder just what it is about lighting and powerheads, it's like politics or religion in this hobby. You don't see heated debates on which heater is best, or titanium vs glass. Those remain rather simple and civil. But a discussion about lighting or powerheads... those always turn into disasters. People choose their side, and then the mind gets closed off to anything else.

I think this come down to what are the biggest item expenses for the tank. If your looking at a 48" long tank you have

Between $400 and $2,000 invested in lights.
Between $200 and $1500 invested in circulation
Between $200 and $700 invested in filtration
Between $50.00 and #150 invested in heaters.

Now if your near the top end of this scale on any of the big ticket items you want to be able to justify that yours is better than the guy that spent less you. since the biggest range in in lighting and circulation it becomes the hottest topic.
 
I added an BML LED fixture to my office tank (Looks great, corals doing fine) but then I had to add a 200w heater that seems to run all the time, so much for saving money. When I go home I look at my 300 with 3 x 250 watt Radium lamps installed in Lumin Bright Pendants and it sure does look good. I always say pick what you want, just don't bash others, less arguments that way!
 
I love my kessil 350w best looking light to metal halides and they do grow corals.now saying that if these lights don't last 8 to 10 years iam done with leds and would go back to metal halides just knowing if a bulb burns out I can go to my local store and get a new bulb instead of replaceing a new led fixture for $400.
 
I added an BML LED fixture to my office tank (Looks great, corals doing fine) but then I had to add a 200w heater that seems to run all the time, so much for saving money. When I go home I look at my 300 with 3 x 250 watt Radium lamps installed in Lumin Bright Pendants and it sure does look good. I always say pick what you want, just don't bash others, less arguments that way!

If your MH's were heating the tank for you before what was happening when the lights were off? A good chance is that temperature was dropping so now you probably have a much more stable tank temperature. On the other end of the spectrum many people with MH bulbs ended up having a chiller to keep there tank from boiling over. So that became a double savings for them no chiller and less wattage used on the lights.
 
I love my kessil 350w best looking light to metal halides and they do grow corals.now saying that if these lights don't last 8 to 10 years iam done with leds and would go back to metal halides just knowing if a bulb burns out I can go to my local store and get a new bulb instead of replaceing a new led fixture for $400.

Yhis is one reason I love DIY LED's. If something were to burn out it costs around $4.00 to replace one LED. So far the only LED's I lost were within the first 3 days of operation and that was less than 2% of my total LED's. Some are actually pushing 4 years now with 0 maintenance cost for replacing bulbs. Hat do you spend with MH's or T-5's on bulbs every year. With my old set up I was spending over $400.00 a year on bulb replacements for 4 tanks. Add to that my electric bill went down $60 a month for another $720.00 in savings a year.

Now if I could only find a way to reduce the cost of running all the Water pumps.
 
If your MH's were heating the tank for you before what was happening when the lights were off? A good chance is that temperature was dropping so now you probably have a much more stable tank temperature. On the other end of the spectrum many people with MH bulbs ended up having a chiller to keep there tank from boiling over. So that became a double savings for them no chiller and less wattage used on the lights.

I had T5's on this tank before not MH and since I keep glass tops on this tank the temp stays fairly stable. I have two tanks now with MH and at one time three and never used a chiller. My home stays around 75 in the summer with my tanks heating up during the day to 77.
 
Lol! I love my leds at night..

I love mine all the time. My point was that my 175 SE heats a 150^2' room to beyond comfortable levels in a moderate climate and the only time I miss it is in the coldest months when I allow the house to cool down to save on gas.

There is no way I'm going back to halides short of an interim measure were I to drop my LEDs into the tank. This isn't to say my MH didn't grow coral well or have a pleasant visual effect merely that my LEDs grow coral as well and look at least as nice without all the waste heat and electrical consumption.

I believe a lot of people on this forum have personal agendas for pumping one technology or the other. Be they shills, fanboys or brainwashed zombies opinions on the subject founded on anything but reason aren't worth merit.
 
Im waiting for the ...........................................LOL again!!:hmm6:
Everything I have posted here has been legitimate. Yet, I get these responses!
I had a 80 gallon tank 20 years in my little condo I used to own. man, that 175 watt metal halide pendant heated up my front living room like crazy! My wife hated it!
But that was not good enough! Then I had to go out and get a chiller..........:angryfire::angryfire:.INFERNO!!!!! Great in the winter, HOTTER THEN A MUTHER IN THE SUMMER!!! I had to run the AC from then on, or suffer physically AND mentally!!!!
I think this topic has ran its course and then some..................
 
I do remember the days though when 5500's metal halides and VHO actinics where "THE HOT SETUP"! Then, if you had them mounted in a Hamilton Canopy with fans................................ohhhhhhh man!!! And painted white in the canopy!!!!!!! WOW!
I think I was using Buckskin Condoms back then...........................LMAO..............
 
And who are you? Please don't make comments like that towards me,we are having a friendly discussion over certain topics there's absolutely no reason for you to comment like that, It's just not needed here. If you can't handle our topics and opinions please stay away from this thread . I already told people pages ago that there was no hard feelings towards anyone and now you just have to make everything seem so serious, I'm sure we all respect each others opinions so please don't do this again

He does have a point though. The amount of post padding you've done, while contributing nothing except the insistence that you're above actually discussing the subject since you are sure MH is superior because you are sure MH is superior... replying "lol" and "+1" to everything isn't really having a discussion. In the last four pages you've made over two dozen posts.
 
Real Reefer,
Equal to what wattage halides???? Cree has just come out with a LED that puts out more lumens per watt then a metal halide. Thats done. And it's just going to keep advancing over time. Metal halide bulbs are done. They are old technology. And I hate to say that, but thats the way it is. I was a forever metal halide fan, and yes they work and work well.
But how do we explain growing SPS under such minimal wattage leds?? Its because very little of the light is wasted. It's all directed down into the tank. It does not bounce around in a reflector and through the glass bulb envelope.
With my leds at 60% blue and 50% white I am getting 410 PAR down 24 inches from the led's. Thats with a 1/2 cover over the top of the tank.
Maybe I got some special/magical led. I could never do that with a metal halide. A 150 watt halide I dont think could do that...........
 
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