Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

Mmm u could try having ur lights on sep timers ? Make sure they turn on independently. Or unit is one cord ?

They're both run by Apex, on separate outlets. They don't turn on at the same time.

Most breakers are slow-acting (allowing very brief periods of high-amperage so that devices can start up). That's why it doesn't trip when they start. However, it sounds to me like either: A) There's something else on that same circuit (e.g. refrigerator) and everything is fine until that thing turns on and pushes the amperage over the limit. Or... B) The combination of the lights and other equipment is pulling more than you think, or more than the label says they should - you can check this with a Kill-A-Watt. Or ... C) The breaker is old - sometimes they will trip at less than their rated current if they're old.

Of those I'd say A or B is the most likely.

The only other thing on the circuit is a couple of small lamps and my QT tank. I'm monitoring amperage through Apex's display, which I assume to be reasonably accurate.

Given it's a leased apartment, I'm a bit hesitant to swap out the breaker. I don't want to end up in trouble.
 
has anyone used t5 with metal halides

has anyone used t5 with metal halides

I had a reef tank about ten years ago real simple had mh on it with some hang on skimmers and filters now I have time for one I'm in the start up of a 220gal have some t5s that come with the tank but really leaning back to metal halides does any have an opinion about combing the two or just going with one or the other
 
There's a ton of variables when it comes to Led. Like schedule, intensity, UV, spectrum, coverage, manufacturer, acclimation, optics, duration, generation etc. Not to mention husbandry. So when people post about led's I'm just curious to get the whole picture. I love my halides, but I'm trying out some gen 3 radions supplemented with T5's in order to reduce heat. I'll be posting my results whether I'm successful or not. And when I do, I'll be very detailed in telling the whole story.

I think some of that matters and I also feel that swapping over an established tank from one light system to another can be a challenge, especially if going to LED. I have been LED since the frag stage/start and have had good results. Honestly I wonder why people do it. The pay back time on LED does not justify ditching a working system. I just put up 18 months of quarterly shots in my tank thread if you care to take a peak.
 
I forgot to mention this is a new build. I'm starting from scratch. Though I plan to run the halides I already own on a grow out tank located outside of my office.
 
I have a similar situation going on, and I totally agree from my experience....halide is the better choice for me at least. I have tried for almost 2 yrs now to find the sweet spot on my Radion LED fixture, and it's just not happening
 
Does no one see an issue with performing an upgrade to an apartment out of ones own pocket?

Never do anything like this yourself.. If something goes wrong if someone gets hurt, the place burns down it is your fault. We we just going over stuff like this today and one of the tenants wanted to replace his toilets himself because he wanted new ones. But if they leaked or flooded the basement it would all be on him..

You could talk to your land lord and let him hire the guy and you pay for it. You may even be ok getting permission.

Never mess with anything in a apartment that has to do with the gas, electrical or water they can all leaded to big problems if done wrong.
 
Ive never seen in person, an LED tank with blossoming, colorful sps. Ive seen a few pics of successful tanks in magazines, and on the internet, but here in NYC, out if all the stores and tanks, all of the ones ive come across were at most average. Some had great growth, but color was always as expected, somewhat lacking intensity.

Im not trying to pick a fight with led users, since i recently ditched my leds for halides after two years, but i tried to make them work and had some success, but nothing close to what i had with T5's.
I just find weird that we dont personally witness more "show" led tanks being that so many users have leds these days. How about fish stores? There is one i often go to that had a gorgeous, somewhat neglected tank with halides, and it was one if the most beautuful tanks ive ever seen. On the other hand, their radion lit tanks are always blah, with average corals. The tank keepers are always giving excuses why they havent yet "unleashed" the led powers.

Manhattan Aquariums, one of the best stores(if not best) in the city is one of the first led fixtures suppliers in the state. After many years with Radions, they have the sps tanks lit by MH's again. They sell top of the line Geissmann, ATI leds, but do not have them on their sps tanks anymore. Im sure they are very aware of intensity, color, spread..etc. With so much investment in a high end store, why wouldnt they use the slim, smart, controllable lights they try to sell their customers, but instead use bulky, old, heat producing, bulb replacement requiring ones?
 
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There's not a doubt in my mind that MH is leaps and bounds better than LED. But, I'll never have another one hanging over my tank ever again. I could care less about the electrical and bulb replacement costs of running a couple 250 watters. It's the Hellish heat that I am done with.
T5's produce a flat, uniform, boring, unrealistic painting of a tank.
LEDs are the present and future for casual hobbyists in my opinion. I think densely packed LED diodes on single chips and under a single lens are the way to go. One day people are going to look back at the Hydras, Radions and cheap chinese ebay lights, and laugh.
 
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There's not a doubt in my mind that MH is leaps and bounds better than LED. But, I'll never have another one hanging over my tank ever again. I could care less about the electrical and bulb replacement costs of running a couple 250 watters. It's the Hellish heat that I am done with.
T5's produce a flat, uniform, boring, unrealistic painting of a tank.
LEDs are the present and future for casual hobbyists in my opinion. I think densely packed LED diodes on single chips and under a single lens are the way to go. One day people are going to look back at the Hydras, Radions and cheap chinese ebay lights, and laugh.

They will look back and laugh because of the christmas light look. But if you think squeezing the light source into a smaller emitting area is the solution, you haven't been paying attention. That is the #1 problem with LEDs - way too extreme point source light.

Anyway, I expected someone else to post this but since no one else has I will:

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Hats off to BRS for an extremely well done piece, with some science and real world results to back it up.
 
Good point. Has anyone ever thought of putting multiple (point source) LEDs on very slow light movers? Such that there is complete coverage (no obvious cone-shaped shadows), and yet the light movement would insure that no corals would have browned out shaded areas. This would prove difficult for a rectangular tank, unless the lights just moved back and forth a straight track. Sounds like a fun project actually. :P

Sorry if this has been mentioned. I haven't read the entire thread.
 
:confused:

The emitter area of a MH bulb isn't very big - about the same size as the emitter area of an LED light cannon (e.g. Kessil a360w).

Can't beat T5 HO for overall coverage. You lose the wavyness of the light, but they do work well (and are reasonably efficient).
 
:confused:

The emitter area of a MH bulb isn't very big - about the same size as the emitter area of an LED light cannon (e.g. Kessil a360w).

Can't beat T5 HO for overall coverage. You lose the wavyness of the light, but they do work well (and are reasonably efficient).

REFLECTORS. :) The halide bulb emits light on all sides and is reflected by the appropriate large size reflector. Think about being in the tank and looking up. With Halide you'll see the bulb and multiple reflections of the bulb, with LED point source you'll see one source.

Like lighting a theater stage with just a couple of flood lights, if you're selling carpet it might work but if you're trying to light people (sticks) it's not going to look very good. IMO.

That BRS video is terrific.
 
I agree, the BRS video is awesome. It is excellent they have started these videos testing, comparing and going more in depth on all different topics of the hobby. We really needed that kind of service. This video basically puts 1,000's of T5 lighting questions together, and makes it very simple for our understanding.
 
Good point. Has anyone ever thought of putting multiple (point source) LEDs on very slow light movers? Such that there is complete coverage (no obvious cone-shaped shadows), and yet the light movement would insure that no corals would have browned out shaded areas. This would prove difficult for a rectangular tank, unless the lights just moved back and forth a straight track. Sounds like a fun project actually. :P

Sorry if this has been mentioned. I haven't read the entire thread.

When the prices for the multichip come down you could cover a panel with them to give even spread and have high intensity in the center for shimmer- essentially reproducing a MH reflector. Right now that would be a go jillion dollars, but LED diodes will get cheaper.
 
REFLECTORS. :) The halide bulb emits light on all sides and is reflected by the appropriate large size reflector.

This. Suppose someone puts multiple kessil-like chips in some polyhedron shape into a top-of-the-line metal halide reflector? You would effectively end up with a energy efficient, continuously color-temperature-adjustable MH.

Two 250 watt metal halides in Lumen Max 3 (discontinued) reflectors completely lit my reef AND had great shimmer. I can't see why the same can't be done with LEDs alone (with future lighting technology).
 
They will look back and laugh because of the christmas light look. But if you think squeezing the light source into a smaller emitting area is the solution, you haven't been paying attention. That is the #1 problem with LEDs - way too extreme point source light.

Anyway, I expected someone else to post this but since no one else has I will:

iframe>


Hats off to BRS for an extremely well done piece, with some science and real world results to back it up.

While you are right it is a problem and it is the reason for shadowing and self shading..

The number one reason is led's emit no UV. Allot of the colors/pigments in sps from shallow water are sunscreens to prevent the effects of UV.. What happens if you remove the UV.. The coral will most likely morph and get rid of those pigments in no longer needs.

There are UV emitting leds but right now they are to expensive from what I heard. Never looked into it though..
 
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