anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

Hmm, I never even thought to give my tank a night mode. My reef goes full blast 24/7 and I've seen no ill effects on the fish. My fish just hide in the rock work at night.
 
Hmm, I never even thought to give my tank a night mode. My reef goes full blast 24/7 and I've seen no ill effects on the fish. My fish just hide in the rock work at night.

It's personal preference really. My fish seem to like it better when most of the pumps are off (especially the wave making function) and the corals don't seem to mind either. Plus a lot of time in the ocean it is calmer at night. Obviously that is not all the time but a lot of nights it is.
 
For those that have the pump if you were to divide the side of your tank into a tic -tac- toe board which quadrant are you placing the pump in? I plan on playing around with it this weekend.

Mine is in the center, slightly towards the top and front of the tank. The pump is also slightly pointed towards the top and front of the tank.
 
The $9 PWM module without 0-10v does not spin the pump, confirmed.

The $40 PWM module with 0-10v works 100%. I follow the Tunze pump rules to not set intensity to lower than 30% for a constant stream.
 
The $9 PWM module without 0-10v does not spin the pump, confirmed.

The $40 PWM module with 0-10v works 100%. I follow the Tunze pump rules to not set intensity to lower than 30% for a constant stream.

bhazard451, do you think you could do a step-by-step write up on how to modify the pump and a list of the parts needed?
 
Is the RA+ worth it over the RA? $50 for 256k memory is quite a bit.

The reason that it is more is that it is a completely different microcontroller on the RA+. The RA uses a Atmel AVR328P with 32K of flash embedded and the RA+ uses a Atmel Mega with 256K of flash embedded. Although the Mega has lots more GPIO and features, the RA+ just makes use of the greater memory. Other than that the RA and RA+ operate identically.

I bought the RA+ as I did not want to ever have to worry about the memory size of my code.

Dennis
 
Ordered mine last wednesday(3/6) got an email from eric this morning saying itll be shipping in 2-3 days. This is for all of you that have been asking about how long for preorder shipments.

I ordered mine on 3/5/13, it shipped on 3/9/13 :D
I want the pump to be on my door step on 3/16/13 Saturday, no later or earlier. I don't have any other day to play and video record with the WP40.
 
bhazard451, do you think you could do a step-by-step write up on how to modify the pump and a list of the parts needed?

Here's a quick one

For Neptune Apex:

0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control

Cat5e ethernet cord

Wire nuts or solder and heat shrink tubing

Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 5A) stevesleds has some

Unscrew the controller casing

P2190005_zps108350d0.jpg


24- is blue
24+ is reddish
VA is green yellow and remains untouched

Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord.

Add solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely.

The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-

The first -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires

The next +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points

The following saves you $14 over getting a neptune vdm cord.

Cut one end of a Cat 5e ethernet cord off.

Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)

When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white green is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4

On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.

Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.

Set profiles and you're done.
 
Here's a quick one

For Neptune Apex:

0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control

Cat5e ethernet cord

Wire nuts or solder and heat shrink tubing

Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 5A) stevesleds has some

Unscrew the controller casing

P2190005_zps108350d0.jpg


24- is blue
24+ is reddish
VA is green yellow and remains untouched

Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord.

Add solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely.

The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-

The first -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires

The next +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points

The following saves you $14 over getting a neptune vdm cord.

Cut one end of a Cat 5e ethernet cord off.

Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)

When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white green is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4

On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.

Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.

Set profiles and you're done.


Thanks! Now I have a shopping list :).
 
Here is a quick one for the ReefAngel...

1. Throw out the controller box that comes with the pump.

2. Connect the custom connector (shown on a previous page of this thread, soon available on reefangel.com) from the pump to the ReefAngel.

Done. Easy as pie.
 
Here is a quick one for the ReefAngel...

1. Throw out the controller box that comes with the pump.

2. Connect the custom connector (shown on a previous page of this thread, soon available on reefangel.com) from the pump to the ReefAngel.

Done. Easy as pie.

The connector can be modded to run with the Apex too, but the random W3 and ELSE modes will be lost. The Apex does not have a random mode like ELSE to program in (that I know of), so keeping the controller is beneficial.
 
The connector can be modded to run with the Apex too, but the random W3 and ELSE modes will be lost. The Apex does not have a random mode like ELSE to program in (that I know of), so keeping the controller is beneficial.

Can you not write your own code patterns for the apex? Excuse me as I dont know a lick about them.

If you can, trash te controller. Seems you would rather write your own patterns?
 
And on a side note. Things like this is what I LOVE about the reefangel. You just won't find the support like this with any other controller....IMO
 
Can you not write your own code patterns for the apex? Excuse me as I dont know a lick about them.

If you can, trash te controller. Seems you would rather write your own patterns?

You can somewhat, but I can't find anything about programming a random pattern. You can create a wave and modify intensity... ramp it up, down over a time period.. sync it, but there is no way to program random flow... yet.
 
I saw one in person and it was in the hands of a Reef Angel Employee who said that they were going to see it could be controlled by the Reef Angel Controller. We will have to see.
 
Mines in the center, and pointed slightly upward.

barry_keith - Thanks!

Mine is in the center, slightly towards the top and front of the tank. The pump is also slightly pointed towards the top and front of the tank.

Skinnysloth - Thanks!

Mine ia mounted on the right side 1/2 way down touching the back glass pointing straight at the other side of the tank behind all my rock/corals..

treetopflyn - Thanks!

Hope I did not miss anyone that posted in response to my request.
 
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