AquaC CLUB!

I was thinking of getting a 1260 to replace my mag 5 for my EV120. Pelochas, you are happy with the 1262? I thought that it would be to much for the 120.....

Matt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11040687#post11040687 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ScottL4619
Mine doesn't work for 24 hours or more everytime I put my hands in the tank. I have a window cracked right next to the skimmer so it receives fresh air, but it doesn't seem to matter. I used to have a problem when I got new air fresheners in the house, but I stopped doing that. There must be something in the air around here that makes this thing extremely inconsistent. Now that I think about it, I haven't had foam building in almost a week. It just kicks back in whenever it feels like it. Anyone else have this problem or a solution to it?

Anyone smoke in the house? That will kill it.
Some people rig up something in the air line so that they can put some carbon in there to filter the incoming air.
Cooking a smoking affect the skimmer in some situations.
In this thread you'll see pics of people filtering the incoming air with carbon.
 
its great. i wish to try a 1260 cause the outflow from my gate valve is like directly perpendicular 2 inches from the sump's wall, flow is high that its splashes, noisy water efx. i dont know what i should do about this cause any addition of elbows or any other kind of tubing or foam filters may change the skimmers effeciency.
 
I use about a foot and a half of pvc one elbow and a tee off of the gate valve and it hasn't affected the performance of the skimmer.
I the tee just needs to be open to the air so that it doesn't siphon the water out of the box.
there's some pics in my gallery.
 
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i wish i had that much space but with only a few inches, even a just a elbow may be too large. as you can see in this picture, the gate valve is almost up against the sumps wall

101_0806.jpg


and its all very tight in there. no money to upgrade the sump, i already spent too much on bulbs, sureflows mods, eheim pumps, a clam, yikes!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11040598#post11040598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pelochas
i use a paper towel too but dont have this problem, usually starts to skim in 15 to 30 minutes.

are you adjusting the air intake cause if it explodes and floods, you have open up the air intake that would cause this.

usually when i clean the skimmer, it leave it running. grab a old 5 gal salt buckets, pull off the cup, stick in it the bucket, grab a paper towel, clean the riser, throw dirty towel in bucket. wash the cup with plain old water, place cup back on skimmer. i dont mess around with air intake or gate valve adjustments cause its set right on the dial.

As a matter of fact, yes I did mess around with, not only, the air intake, but the gate valve as well.

Because I am using one pump as a circulation pump and as the skimmer pump, I am trying to juggle a lot. If the ball valve lets too much water into the main tank, it sends out too many microbubbles, which is racking my brain right now.

I will get it right sooner or later and I WILL learn from my mistakes.
 
What about removing the gate valve put the elbow on the mixing box? Then put the gate valve on the the other end of the elbow.
 
nope, theres no room for any additions. im going to see what the actual distance i have, then find an elbow and probably cut it down a bit so that it will be nearly at water level so i wont get the splashing but also no backup that will change the skimmer effeciency
 
Oliver:
No, no one is smoking in the house and the loss of foam doesn't coincide with cooking. I'll have to try the carbon on the intake method. Anyone have any idea how long the carbon would be good for?

Pelochas:
As long as you can still set the water level height where you want it, I don't think the elbow would affect overall functionality too much. If you can't get the water level low enough with the elbow on, than it probably won't work.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11041124#post11041124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pelochas
i wish i had that much space but with only a few inches, even a just a elbow may be too large. as you can see in this picture, the gate valve is almost up against the sumps wall

If you've got the gate valve wide open, why not just remove it?
 
If the water level is correct with the gate valve wide open, I think if you remove it, the water level will drop. Just having the valve on there creates some resistance.
 
That is correct, removing the gate does lower the water level some more, and removing the nipple lowers it more still. It's sort of a bummer for me. With the nipple attached, the water line is acceptable, but still about 1/4 to 1/2 inch too high. If I take the nipple out, the water line is too low. Maybe I can find a thiner nipple or try a shorter one. Ahhhhh, but that's what I get for chopping up a perfectly good skimmer. :D

Anyway, I have some results to share regarding the gate valve I'm experimenting with in place of the ball valve on the air intake.

I do find it much easier to "fine tune", but still not as easy as I'd like. Most of the available settings on the blue/grey air valve and the gate I'm trying arn't needed. It's the last little bit of space (where it's choked hard) where the dialing really needs to be taking place. It's for this reason that I'm going to start looking for a good needle valve to try.

Ok, here are some new pics.

I flooded the darn thing with clear water two days ago right after a cleaning and didn't empty the cup because I didn't think that I was going to get good enough results for some pics, but I was wrong. So these pics are two days after that cleaning.
DSC00661zx.jpg

DSC00662ad.jpg
 
Regarding my issues with getting the water line correct in my skimmer, I'm open to suggestions. I can't recall how the skimmer was set right after I modified it. It was on my 75 gal tank at the time and I still love that pic I took of it without the cup after cleaning it and come back with a rag to wipe the tower out and found a 5" diameter head of dark foam busting out. :) Anyway, I think that I may have had the nipple removed, and I know that I had the mag12 in the sump with a short hose. I guess what I'm saying is that I should try that to see if as short a hose as possible and the gate with nipple removed will give me a good water height in the skimmer. In theory, that would be giving me the most out of this mod anyway. :)

Anyone have any ideas where to find a needle valve I could try?
 
well here are the pix of the progress of skimming of a ev120 on a eheim 1262. huge improvement from a mag 5. cup has to be emptied and clean by the 3rd day

10/17
101_0805.jpg

10/18 pic taken before cup emptied and cleaned
101_0807.jpg

10/19 one day after cleaning it
101_0810.jpg

10/20
101_0827.jpg

10/21
101_0838.jpg

10/24 pic taken before cup emptied and cleaned again
101_0840.jpg

10/25 one day after cleaning it again
101_0841.jpg


the upgrade was well worth it. it pulls skimmate every day.
 
My EV120 seems to skim a lot better with the lid off of the collection cup.

It seems that when the foam gets to the top of the tube, it gets backed up when it hits the lid. And that prevents the foam from overflowing into the cup easily. Then the backed up foam backs up the foam rising in the tube. The foam rising in the tube just goes up and down, and rather than overflowing into the cup at all, it simply solidifies (as a result of the over-fractionation) on the inside of the tube in the cup.

Leaving the lid off means that the foam can overflow into the cup without getting backed up, while it is a wetter foam.

Unfortunately, leaving the lid off the top of the cup, leaves a dangerous situation. I have a "ping pong ball valve" collection container that I made. Without the lid on the cup, the ping pong ball valve won't stop the skimmer from running in the event of an overflow in the collection container.

I wonder if I could get AquaC to make me a "tall" collection cup lid. Or maybe sell me another lid that I could hack with some PVC to make it taller.
 
Hi,

I just had a custom acrylic sump made and my ev180 is to large for it. The ev120 is the perfect size. It needs to have the john guest fitting. If anyone wants to trade straight up that would be great. Thanks!

best,
Jared
 
AquaC EV240 Helppppp

AquaC EV240 Helppppp

Hey guys,

Having a problem with my EV240 - foam stabilization & skimmate collection.

Background - hope this is not too much info, but...

120G tank
MRC sump/fuge - holds 60G of water
EV240 in sump currently with a MAG12, 1" injector, 2' of 1" tubing going directly from the pump to the EV240 - couplers, but no valve...
Gate valve ouput is above water level in sump as the ev240 is sitting on a stand in sump.
Iwaki rated at 1500GHP that is gated so I am guessing I am pushing about 1000-1200 GPH between the tank and sump.

Tank is lightly stocked with 1 big tang, couple of clowns, etc.. 9 fish in total, clean up crew and four shrimps...
Big LPS population and a handful of SPS

I started with the MAG12 on a 3/4" injector and it worked well.
Skimmate would get to the drain on the collection cup in 3 or 4 days pretty dark stinky stuff. I would get build up in the main body, so I decided to upgrade. First upgrade was the 1" injector on a MAG12 w/1" tubing. Nothing else changed. Improvement, but not a WOW improvement.

Ran this way for several weeks and slowly noticed a decline - minimal, but thought it was just time for a cleaning.

MAG12, I had the air valve wide open with the gate valve closed to get the water level equal to the top of the box.

So, I ordered a MAG18 and plopped that pump on.
Nothing changed other than the new pump.

MAG18, I've played with air & gate and have been unsuccessful getting a head of foam???

If the gate is wide open, water level is down in the skim box.
I need to close it a couple of turns to raise the water level.
I've played with having the air almost closed to wide open and can not get foam stabilization.

So, I just put the MAG12 back on to see if I am overdriving/skimming the water in the sump. I've also open a window to pull in additional fresh air.

The other item is that the sump is in a store room with our furnace. Not sure if this heat/etc. would adversely impact skimmate production/foam stabilization.

So, questions and looking for valued input.

Would the furnace kicking on impact foam stabilization?
Would the MAG18 be over skimming the water volume in the sump impacting foam stabilization?
Step by step settings for an EV240 w/MAG18 - gate/air valve...
I just can’t seem to dial it in or it could be something else impacting foam stabilization..

Suggestions - I really don’t want to re-plumb the setup.

Thanks again guys...
 
OK, I have an ev-180 with a mag7. Its pulling pretty well, but alot of the real gunk is collecting in the neck.

I am thinking of updrading to a mag 9, and ordering the larger injector.

Is this on par with what I others have done and will I need a new fittings or adapters with the new pump and injector?

thks.
 
Re: AquaC EV240 Helppppp

Re: AquaC EV240 Helppppp

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11201553#post11201553 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by J3REEF
Hey guys,

Having a problem with my EV240 - foam stabilization & skimmate collection.

Background - hope this is not too much info, but...

120G tank
MRC sump/fuge - holds 60G of water
EV240 in sump currently with a MAG12, 1" injector, 2' of 1" tubing going directly from the pump to the EV240 - couplers, but no valve...
Gate valve ouput is above water level in sump as the ev240 is sitting on a stand in sump.
Iwaki rated at 1500GHP that is gated so I am guessing I am pushing about 1000-1200 GPH between the tank and sump.

Tank is lightly stocked with 1 big tang, couple of clowns, etc.. 9 fish in total, clean up crew and four shrimps...
Big LPS population and a handful of SPS

I started with the MAG12 on a 3/4" injector and it worked well.
Skimmate would get to the drain on the collection cup in 3 or 4 days pretty dark stinky stuff. I would get build up in the main body, so I decided to upgrade. First upgrade was the 1" injector on a MAG12 w/1" tubing. Nothing else changed. Improvement, but not a WOW improvement.

Ran this way for several weeks and slowly noticed a decline - minimal, but thought it was just time for a cleaning.

MAG12, I had the air valve wide open with the gate valve closed to get the water level equal to the top of the box.

So, I ordered a MAG18 and plopped that pump on.
Nothing changed other than the new pump.

MAG18, I've played with air & gate and have been unsuccessful getting a head of foam???

If the gate is wide open, water level is down in the skim box.
I need to close it a couple of turns to raise the water level.
I've played with having the air almost closed to wide open and can not get foam stabilization.

So, I just put the MAG12 back on to see if I am overdriving/skimming the water in the sump. I've also open a window to pull in additional fresh air.

The other item is that the sump is in a store room with our furnace. Not sure if this heat/etc. would adversely impact skimmate production/foam stabilization.

So, questions and looking for valued input.

Would the furnace kicking on impact foam stabilization?
Would the MAG18 be over skimming the water volume in the sump impacting foam stabilization?
Step by step settings for an EV240 w/MAG18 - gate/air valve...
I just can’t seem to dial it in or it could be something else impacting foam stabilization..

Suggestions - I really don’t want to re-plumb the setup.

Thanks again guys...

Ive heard people talk about gas furnaces near sumps causing a drop in PH, can you feed the skimmer with outside air and see if that makes a difference?
I know that before i pulled from outside that cooking would effect in the way you describe. It still does but to a far lesser degree.
My 240 driven by a MD40RLT sits 3 feet above the sump and pump and i have to close the air to prevent clear wet skimmate. Something is preventing your bubble column from rising all the way and my first guess would be cleaning and second would be some type of fume.
Make sure you are pulling water as close to where your overflows hit the sump as possible (dirtiest). Make sure you clean the "tube" under the injector (run a brush once a month) and the injector itself (soak in vinigear for an hour or so). Make sure don't have anything restricting the air.
 
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