Aquastyleonline.com LED questions.

[nemosworld]

excuse the crappy glue job, this was my first time. lets call this one beta fixture 1.0
should i make a 1.1, it will be way better because i will not make it but rather have a pro do it. or atleast guide me through it.

since it has a open top, i know i do not need a fan, but if i make 1.1, i think i will simply turn this one around and drill holes for two fans and then the splash shield will be removable via the standoff's i have on the channels. thinking about it more, i would redo the whole thing making the sides taller to hide the fans and to make a connection cut out for the wiring.

 

[nemosworld]

excuse the crappy glue job, this was my first time. lets call this one beta fixture 1.0
should i make a 1.1, it will be way better because i will not make it but rather have a pro do it. or atleast guide me through it.

since it has a open top, i know i do not need a fan, but if i make 1.1, i think i will simply turn this one around and drill holes for two fans and then the splash shield will be removable via the standoff's i have on the channels. thinking about it more, i would redo the whole thing making the sides taller to hide the fans and to make a connection cut out for the wiring.

 

[nemosworld]

I am in the process of building my LED fixture using 72 BL LEDS in aluminum U channel for my 75 gallon tank. So I will have 18 LEDS per U channel. The U channel is 1.5 inches wide and 1/8 inches thick.
Can those of you who are using U channel for your builds let me know if you are having to use fans to cool those LEDS? Or is passive cooling enough?

as long as you have an open top, they will be fine, i ran mine with no fans.
only gets warm to the touch.

 

[Gillguy]

Ordering the 72 kit. Planning on using 4 U channels with 18 LEDS on each for a 90 gallon. 36 RB and 36 WH. My question is, if I put the same color of LEDS on each channel, 2 channels all RB, and 2 channels all WH will it have a T5 look. Or should I alternating RB and WH on same channel. Seems that I'll have more flexibility same color on each channel.

 

[nemosworld]

i'm not sure, though i have seen some do it that way, i prefer to go blue white blue etc
i also put my blues and whites on the same driver, reason being; at 680ma there is no reason to dim them any lower, in my opinion. most cree users have their setups running at 700-750ma, some a little more. i would even go as far to say don't bother getting the dimming kit. all you really need is for them to turn off and on.
the better you blend the colors, the better it looks over your tank.

line up your channels and then connect them all, then place your leds so that they go blue white blue white etc or white blue white blue in either direction.

 

[Gillguy]

Thanks nemos. I think I will do blue white blue but I will wire the blues separate from the whites. That way I can have the blues come on first and last and the whites in between.

 

[bhazard451]

i'm not sure, though i have seen some do it that way, i prefer to go blue white blue etc
i also put my blues and whites on the same driver, reason being; at 680ma there is no reason to dim them any lower, in my opinion. most cree users have their setups running at 700-750ma, some a little more. i would even go as far to say don't bother getting the dimming kit. all you really need is for them to turn off and on.
the better you blend the colors, the better it looks over your tank.

line up your channels and then connect them all, then place your leds so that they go blue white blue white etc or white blue white blue in either direction.

I run my XT-E Blues and Whites at 1.3a without driver tweaking. Works great.

 

[perisse]

Hello, People. Nice thread. I've been reading for 2 days.
So, I have a 120gal 59x19x24. I have 6 T5 tending to blue right now and also a 150w MH 20k. I like the blue tones.
It's an open top and the lights are 8in away from the water.
I am between a 90 and a 108 led kit. I don't have many SPS. I have some LPS, softies and a big clam.
Anyway, on the 108 I thought about 72 blue, 36 white being 18 6500 and 18 4500. But I saw some extra colors make a better pop for the corals.
Also, channels would be easier for me, but I think cluster feels better. Should I go with AS heatsinks then?
Thanks.

 

[nemosworld]

Hello, People. Nice thread. I've been reading for 2 days.
So, I have a 120gal 59x19x24. I have 6 T5 tending to blue right now and also a 150w MH 20k. I like the blue tones.
It's an open top and the lights are 8in away from the water.
I am between a 90 and a 108 led kit. I don't have many SPS. I have some LPS, softies and a big clam.
Anyway, on the 108 I thought about 72 blue, 36 white being 18 6500 and 18 4500. But I saw some extra colors make a better pop for the corals.
Also, channels would be easier for me, but I think cluster feels better. Should I go with AS heatsinks then?
Thanks.

since you want clusters, i would go with the AS heat sinks.
since you want to mix colors, i would go with this.
**Note** numbers in percentage
25 NW
25 10k white
40 RB
10 mix colors

to get various colors, you will have to source them from other places.

 

[perisse]

nemo, thanks.
Just making sure. NW is 4500k, right?
Is that gonna be bluish? That's what I want.
Also, I don't have enough time to get colors from anywhere else. What should I get from AS to get the best possible spectrum?
Which heatsink do you think I should get and how many?
tks again.

 

[MADtanks]

Finished my rig.... well the hard stuff anyways, just need to attach the fans on the ends and done

Final:
12 XPG R5 @1400ma, 40RB @ 680, 8Blue @ 680ma, 8 violets @ 680maand 2 XPG R5 @ 680ma

I'm happy with end result.

 

[perisse]

Got this from Ray.
What are your thoughts? It's gonna be 8 inches from the surface.

For 120 gal, a 108 LEDs dimmable kit is better if you have some SPS.
we recommend to add some extra colors like pink, cyan and 420nm actinic.

the color ratio is:
54 royal blue, 18 100K, 18 65K, 6 pink, 6 cyan, 6 420nm actinic.

Three 7.1"x15.8" heatsinks is fit for 108 LEDs. and 80 degree optics.

 

[MADtanks]

That will give you great coverage, and color will be good as well... Ray is pretty good too man, i have ordered 200+ leds from him already and always delivers with good stuff. His recomendations are good too man. He is looking at coverage and ability to keep your corals happy!, I ran 120LED's on a 210G but i was supplimenting with T5's as well bc i did not have enough coverage with the LED's.

You could however get away with just 2 heatsinks @ 40LED's on each, and run the 80* optics for a wider angle beam. But if you want great coverage, and power to keep it all the 100ish LED's will be nice.

 

[nemosworld]

That will give you great coverage, and color will be good as well... Ray is pretty good too man, i have ordered 200+ leds from him already and always delivers with good stuff. His recomendations are good too man. He is looking at coverage and ability to keep your corals happy!, I ran 120LED's on a 210G but i was supplimenting with T5's as well bc i did not have enough coverage with the LED's.

You could however get away with just 2 heatsinks @ 40LED's on each, and run the 80* optics for a wider angle beam. But if you want great coverage, and power to keep it all the 100ish LED's will be nice.

Hi! my name is Felix and i approve this message, LOL!
yeah i agree with MT.

 

[nemosworld]

Finished my rig.... well the hard stuff anyways, just need to attach the fans on the ends and done

Final:
12 XPG R5 @1400ma, 40RB @ 680, 8Blue @ 680ma, 8 violets @ 680maand 2 XPG R5 @ 680ma

I'm happy with end result.

that looks great, any more pics of the fixture?

 

[MADtanks]

Hi! my name is Felix and i approve this message, LOL!
yeah i agree with MT.

LOL

that looks great, any more pics of the fixture?

Ask and you shal receive my friend....

I love the design of this fixture, just too bad the power source sucked! oh well gotta recycle!... I have a spare fixture in case i ever decide to add a second fixture setup exactly the same for more light, and coverage but i think this might do just fine. If and when i upgrade to a custom 48X30X22(or so) i will combine the two and double up on the lights .

Not exactly done yet, since i need to get a longer power cord, and I ordered the wrong damn optics .... need to have Ray send me 80*... i had the issue of coverage with the 60* on my 210 and i dont know why i was thinking 60* this time around.... But the tank is no where close to being filled with water so i have time.... still need to drill the side, make the overflow box(coast to coast) and build the stand, get a hanging kit make sure i drill the ceiling just right.... damn, im far behind lol.

 

[hobbzz]

I'm setting up a deep blue 80g. 48x24x16 (lwh). I think 72 would be fine as far as par considering the shallow depth, but I want to avoid the disco ball effect. Would I need more to avoid that? Also, what size heat sink(s) or what size grid for c-channel, optics, spacing and height above water should i do? Haven't seen any other tanks with these dimensions in this thread yet. Tia

 

[hobbzz]

Anyone?

 

[pwreef]

Disco ball comes from spacing LEDs in rows far apart. If you put different colors in clusters very close together they will mix before they hit the water and you will have very little disco effect. That is basically how lights like Radion and AI are designed.

 

[hobbzz]

So with 72 would I be able to group them close enough together to avoid that and also get the spread to cover a 4' x 2' area?