Aquastyleonline.com LED questions.

Make it like post #612 in this thread. Spread and PAR will depend on what kind of lenses you use and how high you mount your fixture. For your tank you can probably get two 20" heatsinks, or even smaller if you have room to raise them. You can vary spread by lowering and raising it. Avoid 10K LEDs at all costs, they grow coral, but wash out the colors. Good luck!
 
I'll actually be raising them about 16-18 inches above the water. Would I need 60 or 80 degree optics at that height for each heatsink to cover a 2'x4' area? And I could probably go with the 7.1" x 16.8" correct? THanks for all the help!
 
I sent Ray a request for a quote last night on a 36 kit (replacing one halide at a time). Here is what I came up with: (16) royal blue, (6) blue, (4) 420nm actinic not uv, (4) 6500k, (4) 4500k, and either (2) 2800k or (2) epiled red. I'm not sure which would be better to bring out the reds, the red epileds or two 2800k leds.

After sending it I realized I could just order more leds and add them to the drivers as I'll be using the 60-48D's. I haven't sent him another email yet since I know how long it usually takes to respond. But I was thinking why not just go with 96 total and run 24 on each driver. So now I think I might try (22) royal blue, (6) blue, (4) 420nm actinic not uv, (4) 10k, (6)6500k, (4) 4500k and either (2) red or (2) 2800k.

Or maybe because I added four 10k, I should up the 4500k to 6 and the 6500k down to 4? 36 or 48 will depend on how many leds I can fit on a heatsink. I'm probably getting that from rapidled. Should be able to get 48 onto a 6x20, but I'm still waiting on an answer from them.

So how do those combos look? I like a blue tank, but not purple which is why there are so few 10k. Right now I run a 20k halide plus blue T5's for more pop, so I like it pretty blue, just not like Windex lol. How would those do? Also still not sure about the lenses as these will be mounted high for now, about 15-19 above the water (I can do it anywhere in that range).
 
Ok this was Ray's response 20 royal blue, 6 blue, 4 actinic 420nm, 4 10K, 6 6500K, 4 4500K, 2 red, 2 green. But I think I'll get rid of the green and red and add two more actinic and 2 2800k instead of red. He also recommended 60's for optics. And this for the strings:

driver 1:
1st string- 10 royal blue, 1 red, 1 green
2nd string- 10 royal blue, 1 red, 1 green

driver 2:
1st string- 3 blue, 2 actinic, 2 10K, 3 65K, 2 45K
2nd string- 3 blue, 2 actinic, 2 10K, 3 65K, 2 45K

I'd change it a little, put RB/B/Actinics on one driver and everything else on the other.

Also how do I figure out what size fuses and resistors to use? I'm assuming the fuses would be fast blow, through hole, 680ma, 120v? What about the resistors?
 
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just wanted to post my project up. I guess if you see one LED project you seem them all.. LOL.. Well here is mines. I brought the 72 led kit I went with 1/2 white and 1/2 blue. since I have alot of left over led's from other projects. I will make this project an experimental one. Just messing with the color and placement of the leds.

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continue'

I will eventually build a housing to cover the heatsink and put a 120mm fan on top and adding a place for the dimmer pots and power switches.

I am using the 80 degree optics and with the legs standing on the tank it's about 8 inches high.

I think I will take 2 of the red's out and add 2 blues in their place. Red is too much. Green didn't do much for me, so they came off.

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ok, price is right to test the water as i dont really have the guts to buy expensive and have my tank die. I have a 60"x18"x24" tank. I am thinking 3 fixtures (center fixture needs to penetrate glass center brace). think 3 36LED kits. I also want the spectrums to please my coral as well as my eye (I have an 8 bulb T5 with 2 geisman actinic, 2 blue+, 3 aquablue special, 1 purple+). Current fixture grows digi on the sand bed as well as some less demanding acros. Any reccomendation on whether 3 36 LED kits will suffice? also, thinking 80 degree optics. Also, color reccomendation to acheive what i want?
 
How easy do the LEDs popoff if you want to change out for another color(assuming you used the plaster that comes with these kits)?
 
How easy do the LEDs popoff if you want to change out for another color(assuming you used the plaster that comes with these kits)?

just use a putty knife. wedge it between the led and heat sink and alittle bit of force it pops out. There maybe be some residues of the plaster left on the heatsink. Gently scrap it with the putty knife and wipe it with some rubbing alcohol to clean the surface.
 
Got my leds today! Shipped monday and received them tuesday. Ridiculously fast shipping. Got some questions about the layout.

6"x20" heatsink, 48 leds, 60 degree optics anywhere from 15"-19" above the water on a 16" tall tank. Will be lighting a 2'x2' area.

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1 - What do you think about the general layout? I think everything is spread out pretty good.

2 - At this height, do I have enough violets to use optics and still get good coverage with them? Or should I go no optics with them?

3 - Also at this height, I'm assuming I'd get virtually no par if I went with no optics on the cool whites and warm whites. I'm trying to get the best coverage out of them since there are only two each. I only need 36 leds as far as par is concerned, the extra 12 are only there to mix in colors. Would they be bright enough at that height to be seen without optics?

Thanks.
 
Below is a video of my 175g bowfront with these leds. The tank is 72X24X27. There are 108 leds (54RB 54CW) running at 100% blue and 80% white. 80 degree optics I used c channel from home depot and created 4 rows of 27 leds that span the length of the tank.

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I installed these led's on my 28g nano cube yesterday. 12 rb, 7 10k 4 4.5k and 1 red here are some pics.

original compact fluorescent
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100% white 100% blue
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100% white 0 blue
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0 white 100% blue
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80% white 50% blue
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For anyone that has used these leds for a while, is anyone else starting to have problems with their ballasts. They won't start. They will blink for a while and then start. Three out of seven will do this for me. One of the three won't start it just keeps blinking. I have a box fan set on low set on top of these for cooling. I haven't changed the setup since day one.
 
assuming you have the maxwellen drivers, check the pots, on them, if the pot was turned down by someone too low, the lights will blink on and off, this will happen with some of the pots as well if you turn them up to far. play with the pots and let me know if that fixed your problem, might have to pm me.

but really that's the only thing i can think of that would cause this.
 
I just got their 14 LED dimmable kit for a Nanocube 12 gal SPS Tank. Is that going to be overkill using all 14? I'm almost done getting the tank set up (fresh build). Also should I run additional fans in the lid (comes with 2) just for the heatsink or do you think I'll be fine with upgraded stock fans?
 
Ok finally got everything wired up and didn't have to balance the other stings either! I was really dreading that. I love the overall look. Still have a lot of playing around to do with optics and height above the water. On the next set I'll also order some extra leds in different colors to play around a bit more. I ordered 60 degree optics this time because I was planing on mounting them in the canopy, flush with the bottom which would have been about 15-19" above the water. But I wasn't ablt to hang them that high. 12" is as high as I can go for now, so I'm right now I'm pulling off the optics and trying it about 6-8" off the water. Definitely a lot of light, but coverage is good.

Also have to figure out a permanent mounting solution for the drivers and wiring. The plywood is temporary lol.

Blue only pics are hard to get as usual, so I won't include any except for comparison to two T5HO KZ superblue. I even have photoshop CS7 and can't figure out how to get them accurate. Otherwise colors are pretty accurate unless noted in the blue pics. If you have a newer computer monitor the difference from one to the next should be negligible, and they should look pretty close on yours for the rest.

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Two feet away from the door without lenses, colors aren't accurate.

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Same distance with 60 degree optics

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Comparison shot, color wise this one isn't as bad as the blue only, I think because of the T5's. This is probably the most accurate blue only shot.

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Whites/Blue/Violet at 100%. This is the second driver.

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Blue at 100% and white about 80%. This will probably be the final ratio.

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