Aquastyleonline.com LED questions.

Does anybody know if the Cree optics from Rapidled will work on these? I really dont want to pay that shipping just for a few optics.

I have both led's and optics....they are not interchangeable...actually....the optics from Ray fit the bridglux better than the optics from rapid fit the cree....rapid's have to be glued on....Rays fit on without glue...very nice fit......the diod itself on the bridglux is quite a bit bigger than the cree.

incidentally...... the most par your going to get out of Rays equipment using the maxwellen drivers and no optics is in the 300 range.....that's with the fixture 5" away from the water and the prob about 5 inches below the water line.
 
You could try wingo for bridgelux optics, pretty sure he has them and he's in NY. Don't remember his price, though.
 
Hey guys, what do you think of the following color combination/ratio

white LED:
LPF-60D-48
1st sting- 5 10000K 4 6500K
2nd sting- 5 10000K 4 6500K

other color:
LPF-90D-48
1st sting- 8 RB 1 cyan 1 UV
2nd sting- 7 RB 1 cyan 1 UV 1 red
3rd sting- 7 RB 1 cyan 1 UV 1 red

No optics on UV and red.
 
Hey guys, what do you think of the following color combination/ratio

white LED:
LPF-60D-48
1st sting- 5 10000K 4 6500K
2nd sting- 5 10000K 4 6500K

other color:
LPF-90D-48
1st sting- 8 RB 1 cyan 1 UV
2nd sting- 7 RB 1 cyan 1 UV 1 red
3rd sting- 7 RB 1 cyan 1 UV 1 red

No optics on UV and red.

You don't mention specifically but if your running all three color strings on the same driver your going to have a problem with balancing them unless ou add a red to string 1 and subtract on of the RB.

You also might consider putting the cyan and red on the white strings as they will essentially create white light when combined with RB.

I also wouldn't run optics on the cyan either.

Just my two cents. :beer:
 
Thanks Zachts, I actually decided to run the colors on different drivers instead and go this route:

Driver1: 16 rb
Driver2: 12 4500k
Driver3: 4 cyan 4 red 4 cool blue
Driver4: 12 true violet

Now my question is since the drivers are LPF-60D-48, they are sealed and there is no internal SR2 adjustment for the max current output before the pot. Is there another way to adjust the max current so I can just run 1 string on each driver?
 
Thanks Zachts, I actually decided to run the colors on different drivers instead and go this route:

Driver1: 16 rb
Driver2: 12 4500k
Driver3: 4 cyan 4 red 4 cool blue
Driver4: 12 true violet

Now my question is since the drivers are LPF-60D-48, they are sealed and there is no internal SR2 adjustment for the max current output before the pot. Is there another way to adjust the max current so I can just run 1 string on each driver?

Actually, can't I just add a resistor before the fuse to drop the current to 500-700mA?
 
just finished building some led strings on c-channels for a buddies shop, and i am proud to announce, lol! that ray now ships with better pots that gives smooth dimming with the maxwellen drivers, and also going 25/25/50 on the leds produce a nice color.
that's NW/10k-w/RB. adding reds, cyan and UV will also boost coloration.
we opted not to since this was for his fowler systems.
 
Actually, can't I just add a resistor before the fuse to drop the current to 500-700mA?

I haven't used these drivers personally but the data sheet shows that a 40k Ohm resistor accross the dim leads will give 500ma. the problem would be that it works in reverse so to speak so adding more resistance with the pot would acutally make them brighter. so the best solution if you plan for manual dimming would be to purchase some 40k Ohm pots and use them inplace of the ones that come with the kits.

another option would be to use a 5volt wall wart and wire up as you would with an ELN model driver. 5 volts would limit current to aroud 625ma

using these drivers at essentially half power would allow you to build a second identical array later on and run them with parrel strings giving you some expandability in the future if you upgrade you tank.

one other option would be to get LPF-25D-48 drivers, which max out at 530 ma. I can't recall if Aquastyle stocks those though.
 
Thanks Zachts, I actually decided to run the colors on different drivers instead and go this route:

Driver1: 16 rb
Driver2: 12 4500k
Driver3: 4 cyan 4 red 4 cool blue
Driver4: 12 true violet

Now my question is since the drivers are LPF-60D-48, they are sealed and there is no internal SR2 adjustment for the max current output before the pot. Is there another way to adjust the max current so I can just run 1 string on each driver?

I think you'll be quite pleased overall with that color blend and configuration. one caution though 16 bridgelux royal blues will not work on a single driver unless you run two parrell strings (and then I would do 9 and 9 just to be safe since the minimum voltage of that driver is 28.8 volts). the driver can only produce up to 48 volts and 16 Royal Blues can potentially exceed 58 volts. It would fry the driver. or at best it would sense the problem and just keep shutting down.

But the parrell string solution would allow you to be able to add a few more leds later on if you feel like playing with new colors at some point, or just need a bit more light of a particular color. (NOTE: you would use the 100k Ohm pot that ships with the kit for the parellel string)
 
I just spent the last two days reading this entire thread. I am just going to put this out there and see what I get. I am going to order a 72 led from AS, however need a few things cleared up from the pros.

I have a 75 gal with a foam rock wall on three sides therefore my water column is approx. equal to that of a 55g. I hope to keep a MR with LPS, and zoas and in the future SPS. I am pretty sure I will use the C channel for the heat sink, but the color and driver thing still eludes me.

I am thinking 2:3 whites to RB, with the whites mixed 50/50 NW CW. Will this give me a somewhat white appearance or wi the overall look be blue? I like a bluish tint to a white tank. Don't know about the addition of red or violet, but maybe a couple of each if you guys really think it helps.

Now for the real question I would like a sunrise sunset capability but I have no real experience with electronics, so I don't believe I will try my own controllers. This meas meanwell drivers for me. I have read on AS website that one should use 3 sets of 12 leds per driver run in series. If this is the case I would only use 2 drivers, so I could not run the blues and whites independently. So what shall I do? Order another driver?

I plan to use a Typhoon automater for the fade on and off. Will this work for the proposed setup? I would also like moonlights for the tank, is there a cheaper premade setup for this or should I add on of their kits for that as well?

On a side note I will also be ordering another small kit with red leds for my ATS. Have not got that far yet.

Thanks in advance for the progress you all have made for us noobs.
Ed
 
neptunestender,

the typhon controller will not reliably work with some of the drivers offered by As. it was designed for the meanwell MeanWell ELN-60-48P drivers and the LPF seem to have issues with it. Maxwellen will not work at all with that controler. the 2:3 ratio will be rather white. if you are going for a bluer look just start with 1:2 NW to RB I would not use Cool White. adding some violets will also be good at helping to make coral colors pop but it is upt ot personal preference there. RB and NW is a very good base color to start off with.
 
After further research I have come up with this idea. 72 led custome kit expanded to 80. 28 whites split 50/50 NW and CW, on one meanwell ELN-60-48P driver (3x7 parallel circuit). 52 blues on two meanwell ELN-60-48P drivers each with (2x13 parallel circuit). All controled by a Typhoon. What do y'all think?

If I get the thumbs up from the pros here I'll need to contact Ray, and see how much of my wife's jewelry I'll need to put in hock to fund this. LOL

Thanks for the reply zacts my research led me to the meanwell driver. So I should change my whites to all NW?

Thanks again for your time,
Ed
 
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neptunestender,
your math on the whites does'nt quite add up? I would just keep things simple at a starting point and plan to be able to add some LEDs later on if you so chose. 72 LEDs will be more than enough for your 75gal tank. so I would just keep it simple and run parrellel strings of 12 LEDs like so:

driver1: 12NW and 12NW
driver2: 12RB and 12RB
driver3: 12RB and 12RB

in terms of being able to expand later you could for example do strings of 10 rather than 12 and that would allow you to add in some different colors later if you so chose and still give you more than enough light for your tank with only 60 LEDs running at first. You could possibly order some additional colors as the remaining 12 LEDs just to have the option to use them or not.

As most anyone will tell you color preferences really come down to personal taste but pretty much everyone who has built an array or two aggrees that 1:2 NW and RB is the best place to start from. From there it reall seems to be up to the individual. My best addvise would be to try and find someone who has LEDs on their tanks and go take a look in person. Many Local Fish Stores are using LEDs and can demo some of the comercial fixtures for you to get you an idea of how they will look.

Hope this helps.
 
Just got my 120 kit from Ray ordered on forth of July and received it today the sixth in Wis even after I gave them the wrong zip code.
I got the
5 eln-60-48D to go with the Apex system
80 RB
20 6500
20 4500
120 45 degree lenses

Now all I have to do is decide on a tank :)
 
Hi guys, been following this thread for ages but more ive read the more confused ive become regarding quantity required and colour ratio.

My question is what kit would i need for a 4x2x2, i want to keep SPS and clams?

Also what colours would I need for a 20k look?

Thanks
 
Hi guys, been following this thread for ages but more ive read the more confused ive become regarding quantity required and colour ratio.

My question is what kit would i need for a 4x2x2, i want to keep SPS and clams?

Also what colours would I need for a 20k look?

Thanks

you should know that your 20k look does not equal someone else's 20k look.
same was and is for halide bulbs, the 20k look differ by brand.
with that said, i would go with at least 72 leds, to get good spread over your tank, if you choose to go with channels, that would be 18 leds per channel with about 2-3 inches between each channel.

for ratio, you can just go with a 50/50 kit 10k white and RB, for extra pop, just replace two rb's with violet. keep the whites and blues on separate dimmers. for optics, i think 80 would be good.

you will grow any coral you want with this kit.
i went with 72 so you get less disco effect from the leds not being close together. plus you will get good spread.

happy building. for those of you that want to put these on a controller, order your leds and don't get drivers, instead get this one:

controller:
http://www.rapidled.com/0-10v-dimmable-nano-driver/

or Pot:
http://www.rapidled.com/0-10v-dimmable-nano-driver-with-potentiometer/

Be warned though, the maxwellen drivers can handle 18-20 leds per driver while the mean wells max out at about 12 i believe.
which means more drivers.
that's 8 drivers for a 72 led kit verses four.
 
Be warned though, the maxwellen drivers can handle 18-20 leds per driver while the mean wells max out at about 12 i believe.
which means more drivers.
that's 8 drivers for a 72 led kit verses four.

I have been running two Maxwellen drivers with 18 LED's each for over six months with no issues, heat or otherwise. I think its a pretty good product and definitely a good value when purchased in the kits.
 
The Maxwellen drivers are for mechanical rheostat dimmers only. You can't hook them up to a controller.

If you want to use a controller, you need to switch them out for the Meanwell drivers.
 
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