Aquatronica

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Just to clarify in case others where wondering, I had asked Ron for a replacement probe at the time when we all thought that the probe ITSELF was rusting. After Ron had shipped the probe the AQT guys from Italy explained that the probe was not rusting but Attracting Iron particles in the water Via Electrolysis. This explanation seems very sensible to me.

At this point the only value I can see of a newer probe is if they redesigned the probe to make the rust particles take longer to accumulate and effect the readings. Like Psyire I have also noticed that the readings seem to go off after a few weeks. Unlike Pysire I am not as happy accepting the two week cleaning interval (Yes im lazy). I am hoping that this new probe may extends the cleaning Interval to a longer period.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6974048#post6974048 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheMoneyPit
RobbyG,
Did you have a problem with your old salinity probe?
 
I'm hoping they investigate into other companies salinity probes and find out how they do it without them rusting. (or using metal if that is the case)
 
At this point the only value I can see of a newer probe is if they redesigned the probe to make the rust particles take longer to accumulate and effect the readings. Like Psyire I have also noticed that the readings seem to go off after a few weeks. Unlike Pysire I am not as happy accepting the two week cleaning interval (Yes im lazy). I am hoping that this new probe may extends the cleaning Interval to a longer period.

The block letter EC rusted in a fraction of the time for me, stick with the original, I think you'll be much happier. The probe has not been redesigned and will rust, that's why I sold my controller. I'm sure they will fix it soon, they are getting a lot of bad press about this and nobody likes that. That's why I was so confused by your unwillingness to admit the problem, sometimes that's the only way a company will make changes.

I'm hoping they investigate into other companies salinity probes and find out how they do it without them rusting.

Pinpoint uses brushed carbon electrodes, Elos uses platinum, and I believe Neptune uses graphite electrodes.
 
Ron I just looked back at this post, I hope you did not misinterpret it. I was just joking; you know the answer you get every time you ask somebody what to do with a probe :). In this case I think the wording and timing where just bad. Sorry


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6978437#post6978437 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Pysire any luck with the Picture?

Ron what should I do with this second probe (Hey No Rude Answers Please :D )
 
Thanks for the Info MoneyPit, I am just going to send this one back. Hopefully after hearing back from Psyire I wll have a better idea of what to do.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6986055#post6986055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheMoneyPit
The block letter EC rusted in a fraction of the time for me, stick with the original, I think you'll be much happier. The probe has not been redesigned and will rust, that's why I sold my controller. I'm sure they will fix it soon, they are getting a lot of bad press about this and nobody likes that. That's why I was so confused by your unwillingness to admit the problem, sometimes that's the only way a company will make changes.



Pinpoint uses brushed carbon electrodes, Elos uses platinum, and I believe Neptune uses graphite electrodes.
 
Just did my Update, and I almost had a major disaster.

There is evidently a new bug in this software that turns ON devices that where set OFF by a Level switch and the same old bug that Turns devices OFF if they where ON is still there. Basicaly in trying to fix the old problem they may have made things worst.

In Detail:
The New problem caused my RO Solenoid to be locked ON during the Firmware update and if not for my backup Kent float valve I would have flooded my tank with gallons of FW. Luckily the Kent valve shutoff the water after aprox 1 gallon had gone in so I only had a small dip in salinity.

I would caution all to keep a close eye on all devices while doing the firmware update.


On the Bright side, the quick access buttons are very nice, I find them to be a very useful feature. I also password locked my unit, I like the way they did that! they thought it out well.
 
Halide Delay?

Halide Delay?

Does this new update include an option to designate certain plugs as halides and set an "on delay" after power interruption?

I can't see the option and I thought this update was going to address this issue.

Thanks!
 
Re: Halide Delay?

Re: Halide Delay?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6988826#post6988826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Methamphetareef
Does this new update include an option to designate certain plugs as halides and set an "on delay" after power interruption?

I can't see the option and I thought this update was going to address this issue.

Thanks!

Yes the update does have this.

1. Press "Enter"
2. Scroll to "Power Unit" press "Enter"
3. Scroll to "Power Cut"

The new program is in there.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6986406#post6986406 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Ron I just looked back at this post, I hope you did not misinterpret it. I was just joking; you know the answer you get every time you ask somebody what to do with a probe :). In this case I think the wording and timing where just bad. Sorry

RobbyG,

No Sir, I read it like you intended I think. We can't make people like everything about the controller.
 
Great thats a relief.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6988983#post6988983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RonBuck
RobbyG,

No Sir, I read it like you intended I think. We can't make people like everything about the controller.
 
When you guys clean your probes before calibration, how do you do it ? Do you use any special products for cleaning ?

How often do you calibrate your probes ?
 
Okey, so I've been hit by the "Unable to Calibrate" PH probe bug. Is there a way to fix this? I can't seem to remember hearing anything.
 
Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that the new software is slower than the old one! For example I click on some options and the program has about a 3 second delay before it responds to the command. Anyone else notice it or is it just me?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6997915#post6997915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that the new software is slower than the old one! For example I click on some options and the program has about a 3 second delay before it responds to the command. Anyone else notice it or is it just me?

It seams pretty quick to me.
 
I was able to beat the pH interface 'unable to calibrate' bug without getting a new interface.

Try this exactly:

From a few pages back:
(posted by Ron)

For those of you that are having a hard time Calibrating. Armando excluded, we are sending you the new stuff, But please use this step by step to calibrate your new one.

All probes you get from Aquatronica I highly recommend that you add the probe to your water and have it break in for 4-5 days before you calibrate.

1: Unplug the interface from the Power bar.
2: Select "Enter" when it tell you "Device Disconnected"
3: Go into the PH program on the controller by selecting "Enter". Scroll down to "PH", Select "Enter". Scroll to "Disconnect", select "Enter". Select "Enter" to confirm.
4: Select "ESC" to get back to the main screen.
5: Plug the interface and probe back in the Power Bar. Select "Enter" when it tells you there is a new device connected.
6: Wait for the probe readings on the main screen to stabilize. If it jumps .01 up or down it is stabilized. (even a jump of .02 is OK)
7: Get a cup of RO water and some paper towel or rag to dry off the probe. Take the probe swish it in the RO water gently. Use the rag or paper to dry it off. Blow into the end of the probe to make sure it is completely dry. Any moisture will influence the calibration.
8: Insert the probe into calibration PH 10 fluid. Wait for the reading to stabilize. This should not take more than 5-10 mins. Let stand for 5 mins. Press "Enter" no matter what the reading it. It WILL NOT go to 10 if the probe wasn't calibrated properly or hasn't been calibrated before. Most probes will get to 9.40-9.50.
9: Take the probe out of the Calibration fluid. swish gently in RO water. Dry it off with a rag or paper towel. Blow in the end to get as much moisture out of the end as possible.
10: Insert the probe in the PH 7 fluid. Let stand until readings become stable. (remembering it will fluctuate a few points up or down). Wait 5 mins and press "Enter". Again, the probe will not show 7, if it wasn't calibrated properly before.

This is also an issue that Aquatronica has dealt with. In the new Update. This part of the program has been altered. In the version we all have. The program has a very small window in which the probe reads the values of the calibration. Meaning, the distance between PH 7 and 9.3 is VERY small. So when in this window, when you are calibrating for PH 10 it will confuse the program and actually read it as a PH 7 calibration. So in the very few cases that people have not been able to calibrate or have off readings. This is the reason why. What we have found is that a lot of people are waiting to long to press "Enter" to calibrate the probe. After the readings stabilize you should NOT wait more than 5 mins to press "Enter". I have made the same mistake in the past. I was able to correct mine by recalibrating.

Also make sure your calibration fluid has not been used more than 4-5 times. Each time you use the fluid it decreases the value it actually reads. And make sure the fluid you are using is in fact reading the correct value it says on the package. I recommend using the Aquatronica fluid or Pinpoint. Both are very reliable.
 
Have you tried switching between Program Tabs?
Go to say a Level Sensor and if you have multiple Programs use the Tab at top and switch to a new one. On mine any attempts to switch between Programs is much slower than the older software. Not really a problem but just something I need to get use to, I kept clicking the things wondering why it was not switching.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6998493#post6998493 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nicholasvilppu
It seams pretty quick to me.
 
I thought you got a new Interface??


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6998527#post6998527 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Psyire
I was able to beat the pH interface 'unable to calibrate' bug without getting a new interface.
.
 
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