Aquatronica
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RobbyG
Active member
Setup my second Power Bar on Sunday, Wow is it nice to have extra plugs.
I now have everything controllable from the AQT. I connected my Nano Tank, my moonlight system, some Fans and even my service lights. Really nice to use the new one button switch on option, I can turn on all three of my service lights up instantly.
Switch off the main pump with one keypress.
it's a really nice feature.
I now have everything controllable from the AQT. I connected my Nano Tank, my moonlight system, some Fans and even my service lights. Really nice to use the new one button switch on option, I can turn on all three of my service lights up instantly.
Switch off the main pump with one keypress.
it's a really nice feature.
saurus
Member
It turns out the 25 foot serial extension was the problem when I first tried to hook it up to the pc. I hooked it directly to my laptop and was able to access the software with no problems. Does anyone know if I can just use a 20 foot USB cable instead? My pc in the backhouse is that far away and I need to hook it up.
Also, does the new english manual explain how to setup the ph,orp, etc commands? I tried to follow the guide for the temperature setup (i.e. turn heater/chiller according to temp reading ) and relate it to the redox to turn on and off according to the level of redox and I am unable to figure out. It won't even let me change the minimum and maximum levels, it just goes back to zero. I think I am missing something. Or is it noted somewhere back in this thread? I don't remember reading anything on how turn the ozone on and off according to the orp level. Thanks in advance,
Clint
Also, does the new english manual explain how to setup the ph,orp, etc commands? I tried to follow the guide for the temperature setup (i.e. turn heater/chiller according to temp reading ) and relate it to the redox to turn on and off according to the level of redox and I am unable to figure out. It won't even let me change the minimum and maximum levels, it just goes back to zero. I think I am missing something. Or is it noted somewhere back in this thread? I don't remember reading anything on how turn the ozone on and off according to the orp level. Thanks in advance,
Clint
saurus
Member
I was referring to using the software to make the changes. But even when I insert a command directly to the unit under redox I can only go as high as 255 which is not nearly high enough. I think I am missing something. I would think my cutoff should be 400 and it only allows me to go to 255. Stumped
Clint
jsmith0193
Premium Member
You are trying to enter the target in the delta min or delta max. Put 400 into the reference box and then make the min and max 0. Then put in a condition to turn a plug on/off based on whether the reading is above/below the delta max/min. Does that make sense?
Zaphod
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7000537#post7000537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saurus
I was referring to using the software to make the changes. But even when I insert a command directly to the unit under redox I can only go as high as 255 which is not nearly high enough. I think I am missing something. I would think my cutoff should be 400 and it only allows me to go to 255. Stumped
Clint
yes I know push your enter key. and it will save.
jsmith0193
Premium Member
Yeah, push enter after entering a value.
The delta minus and plus are used to have a range of values that is acceptable. For temperature, my reference is 77.2 with a .8 min and a .8 max. The heater does not turn on until 76.4 and the chiller does not turn on until 78. Without the min and max, the chiller would cycle on when the temp hit 77.3 and cycle back off when it dropped the temp to 77.2.
The delta minus and plus are used to have a range of values that is acceptable. For temperature, my reference is 77.2 with a .8 min and a .8 max. The heater does not turn on until 76.4 and the chiller does not turn on until 78. Without the min and max, the chiller would cycle on when the temp hit 77.3 and cycle back off when it dropped the temp to 77.2.
Fatboy
New member
I installed my Aquatronica at the end of November and at first, it wasn't a problem to calibrate my pH probe. After two months, I decided to clean the probe with some special cleaning solutions from Hanna and that was the first time I started noticing that it was getting more and more difficult to calibrate my probe.
Last night I tried for the last time to calibrate the probe, and the calibration was all over the place. I tried four times to calibrate the probe and every single time I was getting different results.
So finally I got tired and decided to change my probe. Since I can't get Aquatronica replacement parts in my country, I decided to buy a probe of some other brand. I choosed the Hann HI 1230B which is one of their cheapest probes and the problem was solved. Since the first attempt, the probe was right on target. Now I almost have the same reading that I get from my three month old Pintpoint probe and that have never happened before.
Are Aquatronica pH probes just plain bad ? I never had these problems with my Pinpoint probes and I think I won't have this problem with the Hanna (that it was cheaper....).
Somebody has a similar experience ?
Last night I tried for the last time to calibrate the probe, and the calibration was all over the place. I tried four times to calibrate the probe and every single time I was getting different results.
So finally I got tired and decided to change my probe. Since I can't get Aquatronica replacement parts in my country, I decided to buy a probe of some other brand. I choosed the Hann HI 1230B which is one of their cheapest probes and the problem was solved. Since the first attempt, the probe was right on target. Now I almost have the same reading that I get from my three month old Pintpoint probe and that have never happened before.
Are Aquatronica pH probes just plain bad ? I never had these problems with my Pinpoint probes and I think I won't have this problem with the Hanna (that it was cheaper....).
Somebody has a similar experience ?
jamesdawson
New member
Is there now a feed timer?
Is there now a feed timer?
Hi everyone!
Can anyone tell me if there's a feedtimer function with this latest update? Any information on how it is programmed would also be greatly appreciated!
On a side note, is it now the consensus that its o.k. to have the "rust" on the salinity probe?
Mine has always had it (since December) and it seems to be rock solid as far as its readings. I have never done any maintnence on mine. Are we supposed to scrub it occasionally?
Thanks everyone!
Is there now a feed timer?
Hi everyone!
Can anyone tell me if there's a feedtimer function with this latest update? Any information on how it is programmed would also be greatly appreciated!
On a side note, is it now the consensus that its o.k. to have the "rust" on the salinity probe?
Mine has always had it (since December) and it seems to be rock solid as far as its readings. I have never done any maintnence on mine. Are we supposed to scrub it occasionally?
Thanks everyone!
Psyire
Premium Member
Salinity Probe Consensus:
Clean probe every 2 weeks to avoid rust build up.
Rust build up seems to be some form of electrolysis going on in the tank.
Rust = Not good
Hopefully they will look into a probe that will not have this problem in the future.
(I would clean your probe regularly from here on out and you probably won't have a problem)
Clean probe every 2 weeks to avoid rust build up.
Rust build up seems to be some form of electrolysis going on in the tank.
Rust = Not good
Hopefully they will look into a probe that will not have this problem in the future.
(I would clean your probe regularly from here on out and you probably won't have a problem)
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